Ian C Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Dunno if you knew this already but the HKS flange comes in either aluminium or steel, depending on what sort of metal it needs welding to. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Didnt know the XS kit had a fixed position flange, mine uses the same fittings as the downpipe so you can rotate in either direction to fit. Looks like its coming along, well done, you have done the hardest part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 I've reusing the HKS SSQV which I already had, though the stock adaptor needs to be removed and a new flange fitted to the IC pipe. Thanks fella! You going to mount close to the turbo outlet or inlet manifold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 You going to mount close to the turbo outlet or inlet manifold? I'm putting it closest to the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Gutted to hear your conversions coming to a bit of a halt mate Guess was lucky that i got a t4 spacer with the kit i bought, and the screamer pipe is a different one, made for the xs manifold, comes out next to the downpipe, going in the same direction. My blow off valve is going to go next to the intake of the cooler, not got anywhere else i can put i really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Daryll did you speak yo my man about doing the work?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 Daryll did you speak yo my man about doing the work?? Yeah I spoke to him but he really didn't seem interested in taking it on, he said drop the bits by and he'd do them when he had time. Found another guy who's a little more local, Roger Clark, he's doing all the work now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 Good stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 HOMER i have a t67 fitted onto a xs power manifold. the turbo fitted straight onto the manifold with plenty of clearance and no issues. i had to cut the downpipe and reshape it then welded it back on, also i just cut the screamer pipe short to clear it from hitting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 9, 2006 Author Share Posted November 9, 2006 HOMER i have a t67 fitted onto a xs power manifold. the turbo fitted straight onto the manifold with plenty of clearance and no issues. i had to cut the downpipe and reshape it then welded it back on, also i just cut the screamer pipe short to clear it from hitting . What turbo is it Abs? Precision? I know that the precision ones don't always fit due to the compressor housing size on that side. I could have cut the screamer pipe short but don't want the exhuast gases pointing directly into the subframe (and hence back up into the engine bay and potentially cabin, I'd rather they exit the engine bay cleanly. Its a simple job to have it adjusted so had that done while the other bits are modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted November 9, 2006 Share Posted November 9, 2006 yep its a precision but just noticed that yours is a DBB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 yep its a precision but just noticed that yours is a DBB. The compressor housing is exactly the same size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeT Posted November 10, 2006 Share Posted November 10, 2006 Darryl, i thought i told you mine is a BL71 precision turbo too. The problem with yours i would imagine is that you already have an elbow welded on to it which limits your orientation of the compressor housing. I orientated my turbo and then had the elbow welded on to suit. Twist the housing round some more and it will fit but you may have to have the elbow recut and welded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 10, 2006 Author Share Posted November 10, 2006 Darryl, i thought i told you mine is a BL71 precision turbo too. The problem with yours i would imagine is that you already have an elbow welded on to it which limits your orientation of the compressor housing. I orientated my turbo and then had the elbow welded on to suit. Twist the housing round some more and it will fit but you may have to have the elbow recut and welded Do you mean to rotate the compressor housing or the cartridge & housing? With the locatation of the bolts on compressor it would mean rotating around 60deg, with the outlet pointing up towards the bonnet. If I rotate the cartridge the oil feed and water feed/return lines are going to be at 40deg angles. I thought this wasn't a good thing to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeT Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 Do you mean to rotate the compressor housing or the cartridge & housing? With the locatation of the bolts on compressor it would mean rotating around 60deg, with the outlet pointing up towards the bonnet. If I rotate the cartridge the oil feed and water feed/return lines are going to be at 40deg angles. I thought this wasn't a good thing to do? pm sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 11, 2006 Author Share Posted November 11, 2006 pm sent Cheers, replied Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 Made some great progress today in getting things ready for the build next week. First of all thanks to LeeT and especially Terribleturnber for their advice on the turbo install. I made a schoolboy error when test fitting the turbo the first time which resulted in me thinking the compressor housing would foul on the runner. For some reason I assumed the bolts on the back were in a fixed position Now that I know how to rotate the housing the turbo fits perfectly without the need for a spacer http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/1977/fourm23ox2.th.jpg http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/764/froum24bw1.th.jpg As the exhaust and screamer pipe are away being working on I can't go ahead and install the manifold yet (Was toying with installing the manifold and wastegate without the screamer pipe but apparently the pipe is a nightmare to install from underneath) So instead, did some of the other jobs needed before the manifold goes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 That's better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Nice one Darryl.. watching with intrest:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 First up today was to install the wastegate. I needed to get this out of the way so I can work were the water return line needs to go (see next post). Before the wastegate can be fixed to the manifold there are 3 fittings which need to be installed: http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1853/forum26bq0.th.jpg http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1687/forum27kg2.th.jpg Next is to fit the wastegate to the manifold. A pic of the parts required: http://img276.imageshack.us/img276/7906/forum25gh3.th.jpg I used the gasket that came with the xs power kit but used a thin layer of firegum to ensure a good seal. The valve needs to be compressed slightly in order to fit the wastegate to the manifold, however the spring is very strong so you won't be able to compress it and bolt it up at the same time. Also, due to the spring washers there wasn't enough thread to get the nut on without the valve being compressed, so I fitted it in two stages: first bolted up two bolts without any washer to compress the valve, this then allows enough thread to put the other two spring washers on and tighten up. http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1484/image27ua8.th.jpg Then remove the first two nuts and refit with the washers. The wastegate is now fitted: http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/7739/image28jy8.th.jpg A test fit shows that the wastegate fitted fine and (though very close) does not touch the engine block. The two fittings on the wastegate did need their position adjusting so they were pointing in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted November 12, 2006 Share Posted November 12, 2006 Nice one Darryl.. watching with intrest:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 One thing that needs to go in before the manifold is the water return for the turbo. This is only required for water cooled turbo's, those without water cooling usually just block these two pipes off. The pic below shows the two feed lines from the water pipe. #1 is the feed for tubbie 1, #2, for tubbie 2. http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7412/forum29tj8.th.jpg There's various opinions on how best to plumb the water lines, here's the main ones I know of: 1) Use #2 as the return, #1 as the feed. 2) Block #2 and use #1 as the feed; 3) Route both #1 and #2 together and use 1 T-piece for the feed My original plan was going to use option 1 as the turbo mounting position on the xs power manifold tends to block the path for using returns from the water elbow (stock return position) However, Terribleturner had water temp issues with this setup so I started looking for other options. Ian C recommended option 3 which more closely replicates the stock system (i.e. allows greater water flow than option 2, therefore maybe less water temp problems). Ian has used this setup to great success so I thought best to follow suit Next you can see the -8 hose plumbed in, the T-piece is where the feed from the turbo will be fixed. I can't fit this pipe and fitting yet as I managed to order a wrong adaptor last week (doh!!). The pipe has to be routed out of the way of the wastegate so found it best to go below the engine mount, this route will also keep the pipe away from the very hot exhuast runners. It's secured using just one hose clip which is attached to the mounting point for one of the stock turbo support bars. http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9324/forum30ag4.th.jpg I won't be able to do more to the water return or feeds until the manifold and turbo are fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 During the strip down I ended up having to cut off most of the stock hoses, they were so brittle most split before making any attempt to come off! This included the main water feed from the water pump to the heater matrix. Rather than replace with large braided hose (which won't manage the tight angles) I used new stock hoses. Here's the two pipes that need to be connected: http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/8461/forum31ww2.th.jpg There is a water pipe which is normally bolted to the back of the tubbie #2 which can be reused. It has a couple of brackets on it which (mostly for tidiness) need to be removed. As usual the mini grinder does the job http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6416/forum32mx4.th.jpg Now installed along with the new hose, I may trim this down a little later on: http://img61.imageshack.us/img61/2680/forum33gv9.th.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 The canister and EVAP system I believe can be retained, but I can't be bothered with the effort, plus its extra clutter (and weight). First off is to remove the pipe that used to feed into the intake for tubbie #1: http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/4029/forum34fy5.th.jpg http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/3456/forum35kj6.th.jpg The pipe is a bit of a fiddle to come out and it's necessary to bend it a little at the canister side, but it should pop out eventually. http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/609/forum36wh5.th.jpg Now the vapour hose from the fuel tank can be removed (you'll know when this one comes out as it stinks of petrol). http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1864/forum37wa2.th.jpg Next the hose from the pressure tank and throttle body can be removed. There is a rubber pipe that slots into a hardpipe just behind the fpr in this pic. Sorry for the poor quality. http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/8806/forum38zv5.th.jpg This picture shows the other end of the hardpipe and the way it T's off into the pressure tank and throttle body. http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/7072/forum39mz1.th.jpg Unscrew the two bolts that hold the hardpipe to the manifold (forgot to get a pic of them), remove the diagnostics ports (it simply unclips) and pull off the blue valve and pipe to the pressure tank. It should look like this once removed: http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/5672/forum40ie7.th.jpg For now I've blocked off the pipe from the throttle body with a screw, the pipe to the pressure tank is left open as it's now redundant. (again, sorry for the poor pic) http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/9299/forum41bu3.th.jpg Now the charcoal canister can be removed, simply undo the two bolts and it will lift out. http://img280.imageshack.us/img280/6121/forum43kt0.th.jpg I wanted to retain the mounting point for the diagnostics port so had to cut up the tube shown 3 pics above. The end of the tube is also removed (see next paragraph) http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6461/forum42ky8.th.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted November 12, 2006 Author Share Posted November 12, 2006 Diagnostics port mounting reinstalled: http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/6112/forum44iu3.th.jpg As mentioned earlier, the vent pipe from the fuel tank now needs to be plumbed back into the 'drain' pipe from the canister. This is where the hardpipe cut off earlier (two pics up) comes into use - insert one end into the rubber pipe, the other into the drain. http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/4496/forum45ep9.th.jpg That’s all for now. Just have to wait for parts before the final fit can begin (hopefully!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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