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Starting my engine build


JamieP

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Any real point in doing the main caps? Not exactly a stressed part... not heard of any failures either.

 

Or is it more you're in there anyways so why not?

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

 

Took advice from Gaz on the main caps... he has had engines let go because of them...

I thought better safe than sorry.:)

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Fair enough - any idea what level of boost / power they failed at?

 

What was the cost if you don't mind me asking - they're pretty expensive items iirc.

 

Will be good to see you on the drag strip when it's done.... you look like a man with the balls to use what you've built properly :eyebrows: Hopefully we'll have a strong team at TOTB next year - there's Robbie's car now running 10's, Monkeymark's full of promise when he puts it together instead of admiring his shiny bits on his worktop lol, dee_rz's and now yours, not to mention the usual suspects. There's certainly potential for a raft of 10's if all the cars are driven properly :eyebrows:

 

What have you gone for fuel system wise?

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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Fair enough - any idea what level of boost / power they failed at?

 

What was the cost if you don't mind me asking - they're pretty expensive items iirc.

 

Will be good to see you on the drag strip when it's done.... you look like a man with the balls to use what you've built properly :eyebrows: Hopefully we'll have a strong team at TOTB next year - there's Robbie's car now running 10's, Monkeymark's full of promise when he puts it together instead of admiring his shiny bits on his worktop lol, dee_rz's and now yours, not to mention the usual suspects. There's certainly potential for a raft of 10's if all the cars are driven properly :eyebrows:

 

What have you gone for fuel system wise?

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

 

 

Iirc the billet main caps was £350

 

I went for hks rail with 1000cc injectors.. it has bigger lines and twin pumps aswell

 

image

image

 

Yea i might have a go at the dragging next year but what puts me of is that greg has broke 3 clutchs this season alone, and 2 of them was RPS carbon carbons.. i think a auto is a better option if you want to do drag racing.:)

Im well up for some track days though:eyebrows:

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Iirc the billet main caps was £350

 

I went for hks rail with 1000cc injectors.. it has bigger lines and twin pumps aswell

 

Yea i might have a go at the dragging next year but what puts me of is that greg has broke 3 clutchs this season alone, and 2 of them was RPS carbon carbons.. i think a auto is a better option if you want to do drag racing.:)

Im well up for some track days though:eyebrows:

 

I'm sure the hks injectors will do the job nicely but have read some bad things about the HKS rail in the past along the lines of the flow being crap etc. - that could be applicable to an older evolution though, don't know if they've changed over the years. How are you mounting the twin pumps? Are you doing twins into a y-piece in or just after the hanger (what hanger?) and then a single line to the fuel filter, then another y-piece there and feed to either end of the rail? What about the centre return line - size? Which FPR? What static fuel pressure?

 

RE: dragging a manual - just put the shock straight into the tranny and give the clutch an easier life - sticky tyres, appropriate rpm's for the level of grip dependant on the surface, then sidestep the clutch and go for it :eyebrows:

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I'm sure the hks injectors will do the job nicely but have read some bad things about the HKS rail in the past along the lines of the flow being crap etc. - that could be applicable to an older evolution though, don't know if they've changed over the years. How are you mounting the twin pumps? Are you doing twins into a y-piece in or just after the hanger (what hanger?) and then a single line to the fuel filter, then another y-piece there and feed to either end of the rail? What about the centre return line - size? Which FPR? What static fuel pressure?

 

The uprated lines and twin pumps was fitted ages ago by Turbofit, this would be a question for greg as i dont know.:)

 

 

RE: dragging a manual - just put the shock straight into the tranny and give the clutch an easier life - sticky tyres, appropriate rpm's for the level of grip dependant on the surface, then sidestep the clutch and go for it :eyebrows:

 

Sounds like a plan to me... ill keep that in mind when i have a go;)

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I should be on the rd in two weeks.

Ive got 2000 miles to run it in:( so im visiting everyone, put the kettle on mark:D

 

Lol no probs.

I had to do the same. Did it in just over a week :D

I was told its best to do town / B road mileage and not motorway mileage so the car gets run in under a varied load and speed. The worst part of it was the first 500 miles I could'nt use any boost at all. Then slowly bring it in over the 2000 miles. That sucked.

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Yea first 500 are gonna be the hardest... i think there putting a 3k rev limit on the AEM:(

 

I'm very much a believer in the hard break in method as described here:

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

I would say you're best to keep you're current turbo / cams / injectors etc for now in order for the existing AEM map to be as accurate as possible during the break in process, then make the changes. There is a high risk of overfuelling during break in causing poor ring seal. Then once it's run in and you know the compression is good across the bores, fit the new go faster bits.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian.

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Yea ive got that link saved in my favorites and its a good read... I wont be doing it like that though as it would void the turbofit warrenty.

 

Dan is putting a running in map on it for me with all the new parts fitted.. i have every faith in dan:)

Thanks for the advice.

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