JamieP Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 cheers bud;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knight-racer Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 You look over the moon crouching there with that heatgun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 You look over the moon crouching there with that heatgun Hairdryer:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted December 11, 2006 Share Posted December 11, 2006 ooh sir Coming on tho, good stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 11, 2006 Author Share Posted December 11, 2006 Cheers migs;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 In that first pic, is the guy stood in a pit or something Jamie is nearly as tall kneeling down holding the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Them new wheels look nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted December 12, 2006 Author Share Posted December 12, 2006 In that first pic, is the guy stood in a pit or something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraAyf Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Everything is looking really good there Jamie - even I can't wait until its up and running to see what the final car is like. Well done mucka! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastisnice Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Just a word of advice, DEFINATELY DON'T keep that OEM crank pulley you got, anything above 700bhp will kill it for a laugh at no time.Get a boost logic one.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Them new wheels look nice I was thinking that too Gaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Just a word of advice, DEFINATELY DON'T keep that OEM crank pulley you got, anything above 700bhp will kill it for a laugh at no time.Get a boost logic one.. Why? How? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Just a word of advice, DEFINATELY DON'T keep that OEM crank pulley you got, anything above 700bhp will kill it for a laugh at no time.Get a boost logic one.. I second that - but ALWAYS make sure the Inside Hex bolts are torque checked. There has been a batch that were not torqued from teh factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 I second that - but ALWAYS make sure the Inside Hex bolts are torque checked. There has been a batch that were not torqued from teh factory. Great, can we have a reason why too though please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Great, can we have a reason why too though please? Had 3 back as a result of the inner Bolts sheering and backing out. I suggest Torquing and Lock'nSealing. Only seems to be a certain batch though. Unfortunately not serial numbered. 65LBft FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Had 3 back as a result of the inner Bolts sheering and backing out. I suggest Torquing and Lock'nSealing. Only seems to be a certain batch though. Unfortunately not serial numbered. 65LBft FYI. Not that...but it's interesting too, no I mean why put an ATI/BL Crank Dampner on it instead of stock!!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Not that...but it's interesting too, no I mean why put an ATL/BL Crank Damper on it instead of stock!!? I'm only going by what I have been advised here. Most big power Supra's (States, Japan and otherwise) Use large frame Turbo's and aggressive maps that have huge Torque steps. The stock Dampener was designed for 330Bhp +50% as a rule. The rubber that bonds the two half's together is a silastic High adhesion bonding rubber. Although very strong over time, (as we know) breaks down due to stretching and heat. With a large step in torque the outer ring of the Dampener is always playing catchup with the inner ring adn therefore strething the Rubber compond even further. And on another note. In any event anyone buildign from scrath a high performance 2JZ or otherwise should ALWYS with be properly ballanced with both the Dampener and the Clutch assy installed. Manuals only need to this as a torque converter is Nye on impossable to ballance effectivly AFAIK in this country for a resonable cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Here is my take on it - The only load the outer ring of the crank pulley dampener sees is driving the accessories. The load is caused by the crank accelerating the accessories which is a factor of engine rotational speed acceleration, not actual power output from the engine. So power output is meaningless in this equation. Worst case scenario is a massive loss of grip on full boost with no traction control. At that point your engine will achieve it's greatest RPM delta it's ever going to get. If you do this so many times that your pulley shears off I think you have bigger problems and need to focus on the cause rather than one of the symptoms -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Stay with stock damper, it's at least tuned to the crank harmonics, at vast cost. OK, the harmonic may change with a steel crank and different flywheel, but at least it's tuned to SOMETHING. Lightweight dampers are strictly the territory of race engines run by people with big budgets, unfazed by crank lifing and expensive research. My Skyline engine is near completion, I daren't add up the cost of the bits in it, but I DO know it's got a factory stock damper on the end of it's steel crank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastisnice Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Why? Because thats what happens when you get REAL 700bhp+ All 3 powerfull supras which i know(mine,Dimitri's and his brother's) all had the OEM crank pulleys broken and dropped on the floor. And definately do the bolts up on the boost logic ones as well as use lockn'sealing.. OEM crank pulley will break at 700+bhp as well as 8K and above- revs Well thats if you really have that sort of power I also have a problem which Dimitri found the solution to with high revs/boost/power, my sup chucks the V-belt out on the fan if i hit hard 8,2K revs with 1.7 bar - Dimitri changed ALL the pulleys, installed a much tougher V-Belt, changed the shock associated to the V-Belt and still V-belt end on the fan, so we figured out the stock shock can't handle the over-revving on high boost, so he will supply me with a much tougher shock which doesn't move much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 So why does the extra power break it then? Bearing in mind what I said earlier? That it's only running ancillaries which cause the same amount of parasitic drag no matter what engine is attached? I'd like a plausible theory rather than willy-waving a power figure about like that's supposed to awe me into acceptance. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 So why does the extra power break it then? Bearing in mind what I said earlier? That it's only running ancillaries which cause the same amount of parasitic drag no matter what engine is attached? I'd like a plausible theory rather than willy-waving a power figure about like that's supposed to awe me into acceptance. -Ian Plausible theory wanted here too please! The damper sees only two things of relevance, RPM, and rate of accelaration. Too high an RPM and it may explode through centrifugal forces, but almost ceratinly it won't at any RPM such a long stroke engine may see, and it would be the outer ring that would fail first, as that's seeing the most force. Accelerative force percentage increase will be relatively modest, even with a lightweight crank, clutch and flywheel, in neutral, blipping the throttle. Again, the pulley is unlikely to fail, but a shock load through a botched downchange can accelerate the engine abnormally, hence why the manuals have a belt tensioner damper. The best fix to a belt throw problems would possibly be a none self adjusting tensioner, that can't move at all, and more regular belt changes. Straight six engines, the length of the 2JZ units, need a crank damper, and one that's well attuned to the harmonics. Considerable inertia is part and parcel of this, reduce it at your engines peril. IMO if you are hell bent on fiddling with this you might as well remove the thing altogether, enjoy a lot less inertia, and buy in a few cranks and say a few prayers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastisnice Posted December 12, 2006 Share Posted December 12, 2006 Ok lets drop the sciencific terms In simple words so that everybody can understand: -First of all its not power "pub" bragging bhp theory, its from personal experience. - Maybe You got it wrong, i did say OEM crank pulley won't stay at one piece. - Yes you are right its the outer ring of the OEM crank pulley that fails,i never said the actual crank will break - If you aim for high power/8K+ revs you should go for a boost logic pulley. Otherwise you just wait for trouble to happen. OEM Pulley is in two pieces and it comes apart because its made from a rubber material as Martin said. The outer part of the OEM crank pulley will break and come apart - As Martin said very correctly OEM crank pulley is rated for 50% more power. I never said the "crank" will fail. Crank may fail if you get an Unorthodox pulley which is all one piece but I can't say about this for sure as I haven't experienced it myself. My crank has always been very good. Chris: "Considerable inertia is part and parcel of this, reduce it at your engines peril. IMO if you are hell bent on fiddling with this you might as well remove the thing altogether, enjoy a lot less inertia, and buy in a few cranks and say a few prayers." Who said about failing cranks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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