Paintwork mopping

[Ewen]

Can someone tell me what mopping is. Whats involved, and will I notice a worthwhile difference ?

[CJ]

Can someone tell me what mopping is. Whats involved, and will I notice a worthwhile difference ?

 

It is what could be described as a deep polishing using a machine something like an industrial buffer. It certainly helps revive most paintwork.

[SUPRALOOPY]

yeah that

[Ewen]

It is what could be described as a deep polishing using a machine something like an industrial buffer. It certainly helps revive most paintwork.

 

Thanks CJ. So its just a good buffing then. I've loads of absolutely tiny 'rust' marks from some sort of industrial fall-out / metalic grit. Tiny, but noticeable. I've bought Meguires Quik Clay but havent tried it yet, so if that doesnt work I may treat her to a facial.

[CJ]

Thanks CJ. So its just a good buffing then.

 

Yes...but worthwhile I think

[j19edg]

A good buffing and more had my old white GT4 done it looked like a new car well worth it..

[Ric]

if your going to be buffing proporly just dont hold it down to hard in the same place for a long time or hello metal

[JustGav]

If you mop the car...

 

Make sure you you then seal the paint work properly.. the mopping removes the oxidesed clearcoat. If you seal it and wax it afterwards it will hold the shine and mirror finish better.

[Underworld]

Lol what happend carbon angel

[Alan999]

Thanks CJ. So its just a good buffing then. I've loads of absolutely tiny 'rust' marks from some sort of industrial fall-out / metalic grit. Tiny, but noticeable. I've bought Meguires Quik Clay but havent tried it yet, so if that doesnt work I may treat her to a facial.

 

I used the Clay on mine afew weeks ago spent about 5hours doing it and it came up great. The bonnet used to be like sand paper and now its nice and smooth. Well worth it.

[Ewen]

Sounds like mopping is a little over the top for me then...I assume the clear-coat will survive a bit of clay bar ?

[JustGav]

Clay bar is brilliant for it...

 

Wash, clay, wash again...

 

Wax on, wax off....

[Ewen]

Cool....roll on next weekend

[andrew7]

Ewen,

For future reference...DIY buffing.....

 

The best way is to go to Machine Mart and pick up a buffing machine (this is a good lifetime investment to keep the value on all your cars). Also buy a couple of polyester buffing heads (they look like sponge)and an empty plastic spray bottle.

Then, to be safe, don't use rubbing compounds, you can do a lot of damage.

Instead use T-Cut.

The technique is this:

 

Apply the T-cut or branded equivalent to one panel at a time.

The trick is to keep the T-Cut as wet as possible as you machine it.

This is where your spray bottle comes in. Fill it with water and spray the area you are just about to buff. WARNING. KEEP THE ELECTRIC BUFFER AWAY FROM THE PANEL AS YOU SPRAY THE WATER ONTO IT, OTHERWISE YOU COULD HAVE A VERY QUICK DEATH!!!!!!!

Now the job gets dirty so don't wear your best suit!

 

Don't do more than 2 sq ft at a time....

 

Work the T-Cut from wet to dry with the buffer. This will happen naturally as the buffer produces a fair bit of heat. Decrease the pressure on the buffer as the T-Cut dries out, otherwise you will generate too much heat.

Until you get more experience with the machine, keep the speed down to no more than 1000 rpm.

The dry sworls of T-Cut you will end up with on the surface can usually be removed with soap and water or sometimes just applying your final polish will get rid of them.

I usually buff the whole car and then wash it, and then apply the polish.

Any swirls that don't come out can be removed by hand T-Cutting them before polishing.

 

By using T-Cut a non-experienced person can get a good result without taking the risk of burning through the paint (that's why you keep the T-Cut wet to start with).

 

 

You can go through the paint if you use the wrong technique or too coarse a compound, or if you try to use the machine at to many rpm. If you follow my above instructions you should have no problems. It is too much heat that generally does any damage as it adds burn-through to the spinning mop.

One proviso, - avoid moving the buffer over projecting areas, ie, like the boot lip that curves up to meet the rear windscreen. You can easily take lacquer/paint off edges like that. Concentrate on the flat areas and you'll be OK.

 

(Just FYI. I have been machine buffing cars since 1974, when I was in business offering a service to retail showrooms). Although I stopped doing it professionally, even to this day I am being asked to work with friends in their showrooms etc, because they know the standard of my work (er, thanks, but no thanks!!

 

Just take it easy at first, until you get a feel for the machine. And stay away from those edges with the machine, do them by hand.

If the T-Cut dried out too much before you have had time to do a particular area (especially if the weather is hot i.e. Oz), stop buffing and re-wet the area you are working on with your water spray and gradually do the whole car the same way.

It used to take me about 4 hours to buff and polish a car if done properly and it is a messy job as the buffer splatters the wet T-Cut everywhere, so don't park up next to your neighbours Aston to do the job!!

[Simon K]

Cheers Andrew7, I knew what mopping was, but never really understod how to do it. I will give it a try now.

 

Good man

 

SBK

[colsoop]

A clay bar is used as a first stage of polishing it removes contaminants from the paint surface, dirt grime pollution etc. This gives you a smooth clean surface in which to apply your various polishes and glazes.

 

There are different grades of clay bar some are quite aggresive so be careful with what you choose.

[JustGav]

Ewen,

Instead use T-Cut.

 

I would never use T-cut with a machine, T-cut does not break down the more you use it, so it would in theory leave worse marks. But each to their own really.

 

The method is spot on though.

 

Rather use something like Meguiars Scratch-X or if you are going to use a machine, look at something like Poorboys SSR range or something in the same sort of vein. These ones break the abrasives down the harder you work them until they just don't do anything. Leaves a much better finish.

[Ewen]

....I've loads of absolutely tiny 'rust' marks from some sort of industrial fall-out / metalic grit. Tiny, but noticeable. I've bought Meguires Quik Clay but havent tried it yet....

 

Theres a foundry just up the road from my office, and we think the 'fall out' is coming from them as metalic dust particles. Theres similar bits and marks on most of the cars in our car park:(

Thanks for all the advice....after having a good look at the paintwork with my glasses on, its just the tiny little spots I need to sort out. The paintwork in general is ace.

[Ric]

Lol what happend carbon angel

 

used to work as a valeter many moons ago, one of my colleugues decided he didnt like a bmw and burned through the paint on the bonnet 350quid later he did it again

 

not really didnt like, just didnt know it would do it

[andrew7]

I would never use T-cut with a machine, T-cut does not break down the more you use it, so it would in theory leave worse marks. But each to their own really.

 

The method is spot on though.

 

Rather use something like Meguiars Scratch-X or if you are going to use a machine, look at something like Poorboys SSR range or something in the same sort of vein. These ones break the abrasives down the harder you work them until they just don't do anything. Leaves a much better finish.

 

I did state, " Apply the T-cut or branded equivalent"...

 

Pheonix,

I have been buffing cars with T-Cut since 1974. That is long before all these new "improved" chemicals came out.

Never had any problem with it, as long as you use it the way I described above.

And as I am still to this day (long after retiring from the trade) sought out by the traders who know the standard of my work, then I would say the results speak for themselves...

[supra_surj]

ive been thinking about mopping mine. id probably use tcut but whats a good polish to seal it all afterwards?

[andrew7]

ive been thinking about mopping mine. id probably use tcut but whats a good polish to seal it all afterwards?

 

surj

 

Best finish I've found (apart from the Zaino) is in a product called Ultra-Ion, which is a waterless car wash....

 

It keeps the car much cleaner between washes (I had a black car) and is a superb finish/gloss etc.

Plus which you can do the whole car/windows/wheels with it.

 

Maintainence is dead easy. Just a quick soapless jetwash and then apply the Ultra Ion..

Great for taking to shows/meets too...

 

Not cheap the first time you buy it, but it goes a long way and you save by not having to by all the other stuff you normally use on your car...

 

Go herE

http://www.go-waterless.co.uk/ultra-ion.asp

[peter richards]

get it mopped by someone who knows what hes doing , and then give the bill to the foundry