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does this look right to you?


Ian W

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Actually, I can imagine whats happened. Whoever re-torqued the subframe bolts last, broke the captive plate and did a quick fix with the weld. Not a huge problem PROVIDING the bolts are torqued correctly (around 160pound feet) These captives are purely there to prevent the bolts from turning as they are tightened.

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Actually' date=' I can imagine whats happened. Whoever re-torqued the subframe bolts last, broke the captive plate and did a quick fix with the weld. Not a huge problem PROVIDING the bolts are torqued correctly (around 160pound feet) These captives are purely there to prevent the bolts from turning as they are tightened.[/quote']

 

Chris Wilson was the last person to tighten the subframe bolts but i know he wouldn't do this.

 

if he's tightening the bolts from below the car then he would have missed this then?

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Chris Wilson was the last person to tighten the subframe bolts but i know he wouldn't do this.

 

if he's tightening the bolts from below the car then he would have missed this then?

 

The bolts he was tightening are these bolts (actually the nut on the other end!)

They are torqued from below.

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while holding my phone to the top of my engine trying desperately to get someone who was going to tell me my engine wasn't about to implode (see thread in Tech section) i noticed this next to a bolt in the engine bay on the drivers side just down from the suspension top mount....

 

[qimg]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/supra-size/Photo-0009.jpg[/qimg]

[qimg]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/supra-size/Photo-0007.jpg[/qimg]

[qimg]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/supra-size/Photo-0005.jpg[/qimg]

[qimg]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/supra-size/Photo-0004.jpg[/qimg]

 

what do you guys think?

 

also, what the hell is this for.....

 

[qimg]http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i109/supra-size/Photo-0008.jpg[/qimg]

 

oooooooo dear looks like a cut and shut to me:blink:

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So let me get this straight, these smaller bolts hold a nut in place that the subframe bolts screw into from underneath the car. so if these bolts were not holding the said nut, when you tried to re-torque the subframe bolts, they would just keep turning?

 

The long small looking bolts (there actually quite hefty when you see them out) are actually captive to the semi circular bracket you can see. There not bolt heads, they are actually attatched to the bracket so they cant spin. These three bolts attatched to the bracket go through the chassis leg and then through the sub frame. The nuts are then torqued up as the bolts are captie, hence dont spin. Hope this helps. :)

subframe-1.jpg

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Ok I have just looked on mine,

there is bracket comming from the third bolt back which supports a wire.

now i'm just curious as to what the hell it's for. which wire is attached to it scooby?

 

It just holds the Lambda sensor wire away from the heat of the exhaust manifold and/or turbos.

 

 

Also, what Jezz says in this thread about those bolts holding the crossmember to the chassis is exactly right.

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The strip that's broken free stops the heads of the subframe bolts from turning, so effectively it's a "spanner" on one end. they often break free, allowing the bol(s) to turn. Someone has put a blob of weld on the bolt head to stop it turning. I didn't see this, as it obviously works and the bolt didn't turn, just the nut torqued up correctly. If it bothers you you *COULD* gring the weld free with a small slitting disc on a die grinder, buy a new bolt and a new locking tab. personally, if it's all tight, which it was when I last saw it, I'd leave it be. The tab does nothing structural, it just save another pair of hands at service time.

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The strip that's broken free stops the heads of the subframe bolts from turning, so effectively it's a "spanner" on one end. they often break free, allowing the bol(s) to turn. Someone has put a blob of weld on the bolt head to stop it turning. I didn't see this, as it obviously works and the bolt didn't turn, just the nut torqued up correctly. If it bothers you you *COULD* gring the weld free with a small slitting disc on a die grinder, buy a new bolt and a new locking tab. personally, if it's all tight, which it was when I last saw it, I'd leave it be. The tab does nothing structural, it just save another pair of hands at service time.

 

phew, big weight off my shoulders there Chris.

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