MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Just noticed i have some horrible bubble rust popping op on my car [ANGRY][/ANGRY] Its around the edge of my aero roof and a bit around my rear window. The question is i was planning on a respray next spring but I'm now worried about this as winter is just round the corner. should i do something about it or hang on for the respray i have planed. Don't really want it getting worse and now worried other bits are going to start popping up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian W Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 get it fixed mate, no point leaving it through winter. it could spread....quickly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supRo Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Pictures please! If you are having a respray then I think you might as well hold on. I don't think it'll get much worst in that time. When you have it sprayed then obviously get this sorted out properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 Pictures please! If you are having a respray then I think you might as well hold on. I don't think it'll get much worst in that time. When you have it sprayed then obviously get this sorted out properly ill pop some pics on tomorrow as to dark outside now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Im leaving mine till the respray! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fat_controller Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 i've got the usual rust spot round the rear window. how quick can rust spread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 The rear window is prone to this, I'd urge everyone to pull back the window seal and give it a good clean in there whenever you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 i've got the usual rust spot round the rear window. how quick can rust spread? not to quick i hope lol hate to go out in the morning to find a pile of rust on the drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 The rear window is prone to this, I'd urge everyone to pull back the window seal and give it a good clean in there whenever you can. Even though its already started??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supRo Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 It's the bottom drivers side corner of the rear window that tends to rust first. Surface rust is not too bad to treat. But when it gets deeper into the steel then it's a bigger Job. One cheap option is to treat the rust and paint it black carefully so that it looks like it's the window seal! But thats a temporary fix as you really need the rear window out and get it sorted properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 It's the bottom drivers side corner of the rear window that tends to rust first. Surface rust is not too bad to treat. But when it gets deeper into the steel then it's a bigger Job. One cheap option is to treat the rust and paint it black carefully so that it looks like it's the window seal! But thats a temporary fix as you really need the rear window out and get it sorted properly mine is about half way up the drivers side of the rear window. Looks like a window out is the best option. So now leaning towards waiting till i have the respray. The aero top is the worst one nearly all along the front edge. Am i right in thinking that if the roof is bad its possible to just replace the panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 the roof is actually aluminium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Even though its already started??? Too late then unfortunately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 the roof is actually aluminium and this means?? It can be replaced, cant be replaced, should not rust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 and this means?? It can be replaced, cant be replaced, should not rust? it will corrode but is easier to fix than rust, i was told when i had the roof to my red one sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MizTheWiz Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 it will corrode but is easier to fix than rust, i was told when i had the roof to my red one sorted sweet .... Some good news lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 the roof is actually aluminiumeh? Never heard that before. Are you talking just about the removable aerotop section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbeh Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I've heard that too Jake, ie for weight saving. Like the bonnet? Do you know for a fact if it is or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supRo Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I've heard that too Jake, ie for weight saving. Like the bonnet? Do you know for a fact if it is or not? Me too! I think Colsoop mentioned it Edit: Nope It was Mr Lover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prof. Monkey Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Aluminium should not corrode, as the metal is very reactive and surfacecorrodes very quickly in air forming an impervious oxide shield. Hence why aluminium often looks dull with a white hue, due to the oxide layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 my roof on my red one had a couple of sections that looked like rust, when i got it done the guy told me it was aluminum makes sense as its not the easiest thing to lift out and any weight saving will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I had problems in the following areas: Surface rust underneath the top of the rear hatch, on the main body. You could see this when the hatch was up. This was also present on another car I looked at. (Pneumoni's car). Bubbling around the top of the windscreen. This was also present on Petes old N/A. Bubbling on the O/S rear wheel arch. What a shame the car's now written off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr lover Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 Are you talking just about the removable aerotop section? yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 I had a couple of rust patches where the boot meets the roof. Just sprayed a bit of rust treatment till i can afford to get it properly sorted next year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattanna Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 This is from wikipedia, aero defo aluminium looks like all bonnets are With the fourth generation of the Supra, Toyota took a big leap in the direction of a more powerful sports car. The new Supra was completely redesigned, with rounded body styling partly based on the Ferrari F40 and featured two new engines: naturally aspirated 2JZ-GE 220 hp (164 kW) and 210 ft·lbf (285 N·m) of torque and a twin turbocharged 2JZ-GTE making 320 hp (239 kW), 315 ft·lbf (427 N·m) of torque. The turbocharged variant could achieve 0–60 mph in 4.6 seconds and 1/4 mile (402 m) in 13.1 seconds at 109 mph [2]. The engine is capable of producing around 450-500 with the stock twin turbos and mild bolt-on upgrades such as a boost controller and high-flow exhaust. In Japan the cars are limited to 180km/h and in the US the cars are governed to 250kmh in its final drive, but the Supra is capable of considerably higher speed even in the stock configuration. The MKIV Supra's twin turbos operated in sequential mode instead of the more common parallel mode. The sequential setup featured a pair of small, equally sized turbos, with ceramic blades for the domestic Japanese market and steel blades for export (USA, Europe) markets. At first, all of the exhaust is routed to the first turbine for reduced lag. This resulted in boost and enhanced torque as early as 1800 rpm. Approaching 4000 rpm, the exhaust is routed to the second turbine for a "pre-boost" mode, although none of the compressor output is used by the engine at this point. Approaching 4500 rpm, the second turbo's output is added to the intake air, and both turbos operate in parallel. Most cars which are advertised as "twin turbo" operate by having the two equally sized turbos constantly running in parallel; the turbos spool up at the same time. The sequential mode provides greater low-end response at the expense of increased complexity and cost. For this generation, the Supra received a new 6-speed Getrag transmission on the Turbo models while the normally aspirated models made do with a 5-speed manual. Both models were offered with a 4-speed automatic with a manumatic mode. However, the turbo model used 4-piston brake calipers on the front and 2-piston calipers for the rear. The base model used 2-piston calipers for the front and a single piston caliper for the rear. The turbo models were fitted with 235/45/17 tires on the front and 255/40/17 tires for the rear. The base model used 225/50/16 for the front and 245/50/16 for the rears. All vehicles were equipped with 5-spoke aluminium alloy wheels and a "donut" spare tire on a steel wheel. Toyota took measures to reduce the weight of the current model compared to the previous model. The Supra featured hollow carpet fibers. Aluminium was used for the hood, targa top (if so equipped), front crossmember, oil pan, and upper A-arms. Other measures included dished out head bolts, magnesium steering wheel, plastic gas cover, gas injected rear spoiler, and a large single exhaust tip. Despite having more features such as dual airbags, traction control, larger brakes, larger wheels, and larger tires, the car was at least a 100 lbs lighter than its predecessor. For the 1996 model year, the turbo model was only available with the automatic transmission due to OBD2 certification requirements. The targa roof was made standard on all turbo models. For 1997, the manual transmission is back for the optional engine along with a redesign of the tail lights, front fascia, chromed wheels, and other minor changes such as the radio and steering wheel designs. All 1997 models included badges that said, "Limited Edition 15th Anniversary." For 1998, the radio and steering wheel were redesigned once again. The naturally aspirated engine was enhanced with VVTI which raised the output by 5 hp and 10 ft·lbf of torque. The turbo model was not available in California, New York, and Massachusetts due to increased emission regulations. MKIV Supras have been modified (larger turbos running 30+ psi (206 kPa) of boost and other, undisclosed tweaks) to produce over 1453bhp (1084 kW), as measured at the tires, and cover the 1/4 mile (402 m) in 7.9 seconds. The stock 2JZ-GTE stock engine components are astonishingly rugged, capable of withstanding power outputs of over 1000 bhp (~850rwhp dynojet / ~730rwhp dyno dynamics) without having to update any internal components, putting its capabilities in this regard, somewhat above Nissans legendary RB26 series engine. The stock MKIV Supra chassis has also proven a very effective platform for roadracing, with (for example) several top 20 and top 10 One Lap Of America finishes in the SSGT1 class. The major deficiencies with this platform for road racing include heat management and weight due to the 2JZ iron block. The Supra is one of the heaviest 2-door Japanese sports cars, however still slightly lighter than the Nissan R33 and R34 Skyline GTRs to which the Supra is traditionally a rival in its home country. The MKIV has become one of the most popular import platforms for modification. This trend has largely been driven by the strength of the stock parts. Untouched motors have been shown to withstand power levels in excess of 3 times what the stock motor is rated at. For less than USD$1000 the owner can increase the power output from 320 crank horsepower (stock) to around 500 crank horsepower. The car has also been hyped and glamourised in several major motion pictures, to a widely mixed reception depending mostly on the age of audience. In the drag racing circuit, Supras and other 2JZ-powered cars have been running very competitively against domestics with two or three times the displacement. The 2JZ has been recognized as one of the most capable import engines, and the engine design has altered very little since the 2JZ was released in 1993. The 2JZ in the import world can be compared to the LS1 350 cubic inch domestic powerplant (used in Corvettes, Firebirds, Camaros...), both with a great deal of clout and showing excellent performance, despite the same general design for almost two decades of each. In 1998, Toyota ceased to import the cars to the U.S. from Japan, although the car was last sold in Canada in 1995. They stopped production of the car altogether in 2002 due to new emission standards coming into effect in 2003. 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