suprasteve1979 Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Hi just wondering if any one has had this problem before, my crank pulley came off the other night whilst coming off an island, lucky the belt fell back onto the inner pulley and the tensioner took the slack, as the inside rubber damper has deteriated and seperated. Quite a few Loud bangs as pulley span off and rattled around front of engine untill it came to stop on engine tray, had a quick look but was very dark and pissing down with rain no warning lights, so carried on home, no other damage just loose belt and squeely as f*^k on the way back. New pulley £220 from toyota [sHOCK][/sHOCK] and £40 for belt. Might give Chris Wilson a call see if he is still struggling with the EPC CD:eyebrows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeT Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Its a common problem with older supras Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Yep, that's fairly common. Sometimes associated with a numpty using heat to remove the pulley during a cam belt change, but they do fail naturally too. Mine did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elliot Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Mine too Posted on here about it I think. Garage said they have a lot of Supras in with this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supRo Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Some Diagnostic info or if you suspect your crank pulley is dodgy - A squeeky V belt maybe an early sign! : http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=830697&postcount=5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprasteve1979 Posted October 3, 2006 Author Share Posted October 3, 2006 has anyone changed one, haven't had decent look yet, is it easy to get with engine tray out or have i got to scratch my hands to bits getting between fan and pulleys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daston Posted October 3, 2006 Share Posted October 3, 2006 Mine did just that. My mechanic said it was a bitch to get off and ended up using a hammer & chissel to loosen the thing up (dont worry I trust the guy he's been building, working and racing Performace cars for years). I went for the boost logic one in the end as it's meant to last longer and plus it looks nice and shiny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 ..I went for the boost logic one in the end as it's meant to last longer and plus it looks nice and shiny And they never fail, eh? At least you know that the stock one will last 10-odd years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 And they never fail, eh? At least you know that the stock one will last 10-odd years At least you know that the BL one is a one piece design so it will not separate. Also it is lighter so in theory should be more efficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 New pulley £220 from toyota £185 if you buy from Steve Manley PN 13407-46020 assuming it's the same PN for J-spec too ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRASUZUKI Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 At least you know that the BL one is a one piece design so it will not separate. Also it is lighter so in theory should be more efficient. Personally I'd stick with the stock item. These are 'tuned' to help the crank train deal with torsional vibration. Fitting a none standard one could have bad effects. I say could because I'm not aware of any actual test results for aftermarket items. But if Toyota engineered the original, through there design and development programme, it's good enough for me. Just my opinion though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Dont fit an "uprated one". You'll lose the torsional AND bending dampers (the Supra crank pulley has both, not just a torsional one). Don't fit an underdriven one unless you want your PAS pump, alternator and (lord help me) water pump to all run slower. Not much point in fitting a lighter one because it has feck all inertia compared to the flywheel. This is one item that's best left stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feakins Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Its happened to quite a few on here, just do a search on 'crank pulley'. Scooter on this forum kindly help fit a new one which he supplied 2nd hand. Not too hard once you know how to do it but you will need the tool that locks the crankshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Before pulleys fail they tend to start to move or fret. An idea to check if the pulley is moving is to paint a white line on the two halves across the rubber section. Any movement will show up as the lines not being inline. A quick check each service or even on the weekly fluid checks will confirm everything is in order (or not). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Bling-bling-bling As if the Toyota engineers were misguided morons, and the bloke with the CNC machine knows better:search: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprasteve1979 Posted October 4, 2006 Author Share Posted October 4, 2006 Bling-bling-bling As if the Toyota engineers were misguided morons, and the bloke with the CNC machine knows better:search: That says it all think I'm gonna stay stock Chris W also advises this. Thanks Pete but managed to get new pulley for around £170 today today, Ill have a go at weekend, cheers for everyones comments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Good man You can get some good discount from some people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 If your engine is extremely modified for high rpm and power, then you might find that the aftermarket pulley is more appropriate. But that is a different thing altogether, engine life is *expected* to be much shorter in exchange for a brief glorious peak on the dyno. For stockish levels (bpu etc), I'd stick to stock parts as much as possible. VERY rarely does an aftermarket part prove to be an improvement overall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I'm running a BL pulley. It's just coming up to 10,000 miles, gets driven fairly hard, (it only comes out when I want to play), and so far, so good, no detrimental signs. However, that's not saying that a BL one is better in the long-term, and to be fair, Digsy is certainly one of the people on this board whose engine knowledge 'should' be listened to... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted October 5, 2006 Share Posted October 5, 2006 It's a big long term risk versus a gain that's not quantified, but can only be very small and probably unnoticeable. I went back to a stock pulley -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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