Fitting Fluidyne radiator

[Thorin]

Fitting a Fluidyne Radiator

 

You will need :

 

1 MKIV Supra with cracked radiator

1 Shiney new Fluidyne rad

10 litres of Toyota 4Life (2 x 5 litres)

Possibly new top and bottom rad hoses if yours are in a bad state

 

If you have an auto, the stock rad contains an auto box cooler and you will need a separate one if fitting the Fluidyne. I have a manual so these instructions do not cover this.

 

Tools required :

 

Jack

Axle stands

10mm Socket

20mm (?) spanner

Snips

Plumbers/PTFE tape

A bucket

A sharp knife

1 Bottle of Powerade

1 Plaster

1 Bag of Haribo

 

Time taken : er, longer than it should have done. If you know what you're doing certainly less than an hour.

 

------------------------------------------------

 

Upon mentioning mine it seems a few people have suffered from cracked radiators now, you can just make out the hairline crack running horizontally here. It's lasted 12 years and 80k miles though, so it's not done too badly.

 

 

So I bought a nice new shiney Fluidyne rad to replace it. Let me just state this - the stock one is excellent, will fit better (read later on refitting the shroud), and is perfectly fine as long as you're not going to ruin airflow to it by sticking an FMIC in front. However, the Fluidyne rad is about the same price as a new stock rad, doesn't have plastic end caps, and did I mention it's shiney?

 

 

 

 

 

Right, let's try and fit it.

[Thorin]

Drain and remove the old radiator

 

Jack the car up and put the car on axle stands.

 

First get under the car and remove the undertray. I removed the bolts from along the edge of the front plastic bit to make it easier to slide the undertray out (and back in again when you're done).

 

 

While you're under there remove the metal clips from the bottom section of the fan shroud, they are at about the 4 & 8 o'clock positions. You may be able to get at these from the top (certainly the drivers side one), but I found it easier from underneath. There's no need to remove this section, just rest it on top of the intake pipe coming from the intercooler.

 

 

You'll also need to unplug the temperature sensor connector on the back of the rad just above the drain tap (passenger side).

 

 

Next stick a bucket under the little rubber pipe and undo the tap to drain the radiator while you're unbolting bits up top. Take the rad cap off and it will drain faster.

 

I don't have the stock airbox but did still have the top air duct in place. You have to remove this as it won't fit back on when the new rad is in, not that I suspect it was still doing any good without the stock airbox there anyway.

 

 

Remove the small overflow pipe next to the rad cap, and remove the top radiator hose.

 

Remove the plug for the fan, look down the back of the radiator where the rad cap is and you'll see it. I found this a bastard to get off.

 

 

Next you'll notice the cable for the two plugs is clipped into the plastic fan shroud, once near the top, and again near the bottom (you'll probably want to get at this one from underneath). Again these are awkward to get out. I managed to get the top one unclipped ok but the bottom one I cracked the plastic a bit, still clipped back in ok though.

 

You can now pull up and move the cable and the small overflow pipe out of the way to the right of the battery clamp.

 

Now just remove the two radiator clamps either side of the rad on the top.

 

 

Once the radiator has fully drained, get back underneath and disconnect the bottom rad hose (drivers side of rad).

 

 

You should now find that the rad will just lift right out with the fan shroud still attached.

 

As I've had to remove the air duct, there's no need for the bracket at the left hand side it bolts to either, I don't know if thats still needed with the stock airbox. I removed that now as well.

 

 

Here's from underneath, you can just see the bottom section of the fan shroud resting on the intake pipe.

 

[Thorin]

Fitting the new radiator

 

First unbolt the fan and shroud from the old rad.

 

 

Note the little bracket at the top of the shroud, remove this as there's nowhere for it to clip into on the Fluidyne.

 

 

You need to bolt the fan and shroud onto the Fluidyne rad, the rad's a good fit... but it's not stock. The bottom radiator pipe fouls the shroud and I had to snip away a little of the plastic to fit around it.

 

 

 

 

Ok so that now fitted, and most of the others then all lined up ok too... All except one, which is way out (are US/UK spec radiators different??). Just leave that one.

 

 

When bolting the aircon fan on, the top bolt fitted ok, and the right hand bottom one too. The left one at the bottom though was again slightly out. I left this one out as well, it's still very secure on there and forcing it to fit was going to cause the fan to foul the shroud.

 

 

Ok now you're nearly ready to put it in the car, but you need to remove and refit the temperature sensor from the old rad (I *think* this was a 20mm spanner, can anyone confirm?). Mine was in quite tight. Before you refit it into the new rad, remove the blue plastic cap in the Fluidyne rad, and wrap several layers of plumbers tape around the thread of the temp sensor (I forgot about this and had to use masking tape... it seemed to work, I hope it's ok). If you don't do this you'll find out like I did, once I'd already filled the rad, that it leaks. Make sure it's tightened up well.

 

Now you're ready to lower it into the car!

 

Lower it gently into the car being careful not to bash anything.

 

Once in get underneath and check that the little posts on the bottom of the rad line up correctly with the hole in the middle of the rubber bungs at either side. You will probably need to push down on the rad to push it into the bungs.

 

Now refit the radiator clamps, the cable clips and the temp sensor and aircon fan plugs, the bottom rad hose, the top rad hose, and the overflow pipe.

 

Also remember to refit the bottom section of the fan shroud with the clips.

[Thorin]

Refilling the radiator

 

Take your bottle of Powerade and finish off the contents if you haven't already. Use the sharp knife to cut off the bottom and top of the bottle.

 

 

This now fits nicely into the top of the radiator

 

 

Now fill the rad with a little of the 4Life and check underneath for any leaks. If all is ok, procede to fill the radiator to the top. Next start the engine and stick the heating on full, the level in the rad should drop. Continue to fill the radiator while gently squeezing the top rad hose every now and again (please do not put your fingers in the viscous fan when doing this) until the bubbles stop. My ingenious powerade bottle tip makes this easy to see

 

When it won't take any more water put the rad cap back on securely. You should still have some 4Life left. Once the car is up to operating temperature, top the expansion tank at the front of the car up to the HOT level.

 

And that should be it! Double check for leaks, refit the undertray and take it for a drive around the block. Come back, let the engine cool for an hour or so and check/top up the radiator if needed.

 

Now place plaster on skinned knuckle and sit down and eat your Haribo.

 

Job done!

 

 

Yes I should probably give the engine bay a bit of a clean too.

 

I now expect someone to come along and say I've done it all wrong, or they would have done it differently (i.e. Ian C).

[psymon]

I thought the fan in front of the air con rad was the air con fan.

 

someone correct me please if im wrong

[LeeT]

Masking tape Get that replaced mate, it won't last. Good of you to take the time to do a write up though

[michel lane]

need a pic off your chessy smile at the end....

[Thorin]

I thought the fan in front of the air con rad was the air con fan.

 

someone correct me please if im wrong

 

You may be right... I didn't know what purpose that fan was for, and heard talk of an aircon fan so just put that. I'll change it if that's the case?

[Thorin]

Masking tape Get that replaced mate, it won't last. Good of you to take the time to do a write up though

 

B*stard.

 

 

I was hoping someone would say, no that will be fine Michael, don't worry about it. I'll keep checking it and buy some more 4Life and refit it if it starts leaking again.

[LeeT]

B*stard.

 

 

I was hoping someone would say, no that will be fine Michael, don't worry about it. I'll keep checking it and buy some more 4Life and refit it if it starts leaking again.

 

It will leak mate eventually. Its only about 40p for a roll of ptfe. You'll have to redrain the rad but better to be safe than sorry.

[Kranz]

Great post mate.

 

Mine cracked last night.. same place, so will be doing this on Saturday!

[carl0s]

I love posts like this. Top marks thanks

[Ian C]

You did it all wrong and I would have done it differently

 

I like the powerade bottle tip

 

I just checked up and the electric fan attached to the radiator shroud ducting is "Fan no2" apparently. I checked the condesner fan out and it's the bit crappy looking one on the front. I think mine was removed when the previous owner had the FMIC fitted but the aircon is still pretty good.

 

I've always thought that little fan was the aircon one, turns out it's not, how about that? The Facelift has two extra electric ones, one above the other, maybe that's why the big FMIC has never caused my to overheat even under extreme conditions

 

-Ian

[Jake]

Thanks for that review Michael.

 

*makes mental note not to buy a fluidyne rad*

[carl0s]

Thanks for that review Michael.

 

*makes mental note not to buy a fluidyne rad*

 

it did put me off a little bit - all the cutting and stuff, not able to use stock airbox parts, etc.

[Thorin]

it did put me off a little bit - all the cutting and stuff, not able to use stock airbox parts, etc.

 

Yeah I didn't realise things like that before I bought it. I'm happy though, did I mention it's shiney? Haters!

 

 

 

Changed all the references to aircon fan, to just fan... and my masking taped temp sensor still isn't leaking.

[Sheefa]

Well done Thorin on an excellent 'How to' post that will help non-technical pratts like me.

[Guest Terry S]

It will leak mate eventually. Its only about 40p for a roll of ptfe. You'll have to redrain the rad but better to be safe than sorry.

 

Or Fernox LSX from you local plumbing merchant.

 

Also when fitting fluidyne's I strongly advise fitting some heavy duty self adhesive insulating strip to seal against the front panel just like the stock radiator ( see the foam stuck to your stock rad). I also use sponge gasket in between the shroud and the rad. Both of these are added to maximise the efficiency.

[Thorin]

Or Fernox LSX from you local plumbing merchant.

 

It's not leaking, la la la I can't hear you!

 

Also when fitting fluidyne's I strongly advise fitting some heavy duty self adhesive insulating strip to seal against the front panel just like the stock radiator ( see the foam stuck to your stock rad).

 

Yeah I was going to mention something about that, I want to fit something there to cover that gap. You got a pic of what you mean and where did you get the strip from?

 

I also use sponge gasket in between the shroud and the rad. Both of these are added to maximise the efficiency.

 

Pic? I don't get what you mean.

[Thorin]

And another thing... the bottom rad hose goes from the rad to the water pump yes? And the thermostat's round there somewhere? I must admit I never bothered looking where that went back to while I was under there

[Guest Terry S]

It's not leaking, la la la I can't hear you!

 

 

 

Yeah I was going to mention something about that, I want to fit something there to cover that gap. You got a pic of what you mean and where did you get the strip from?

 

 

 

Pic? I don't get what you mean.

 

I use sponge gasket we have for sealing ductwork, we have different thicknesses and they are self adhesive.

 

On the shroud that you show fitting to the rear of the rad, it's not airtight. I just add some thin gasket to seal it, that way it can only pull through the rad and not from the sides of the shroud as well. That make sense?

[Thorin]

On the shroud that you show fitting to the rear of the rad, it's not airtight. I just add some thin gasket to seal it, that way it can only pull through the rad and not from the sides of the shroud as well. That make sense?

 

Yeah that makes sense, thanks. I'll have a look at B&Q for some sponge and insulating strip suitable.

 

I'd be interested to hear what the fit is like with other rad's too, PWR, Koyo, ARC, etc. and whether or not you have to ditch the air duct etc. on those too. I seem to remember hearing the PWR being a bit awkward?

[Ian C]

I need some of that foamy stuff across the top as well. If insulation strip survives the heat can I just use a snake draught excluder They are so cute.

 

-Ian

[Guest Terry S]

Yeah that makes sense, thanks. I'll have a look at B&Q for some sponge and insulating strip suitable.

 

I'd be interested to hear what the fit is like with other rad's too, PWR, Koyo, ARC, etc. and whether or not you have to ditch the air duct etc. on those too. I seem to remember hearing the PWR being a bit awkward?

 

Definitely better than the PWR, can't say for the others mate.

[Kranz]

For the fan shroud draught excluder is good!

 

What's the snake ian?? The thing that sits at the bottom of the door in the lounge??