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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Crank position sensor on an N/A???


ChrisSZ

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per manual

 

No NE or G1 and G2 signal to ECU for 2 sec or more after cranking.

 

(where NE G1 and G2 are the three 'pickup coils' in the distributor)

 

there's a whole diagnostic chart and procedures etc

 

Its ref EG-510 to 513 if someone with CJ's manual can pop this up.

 

Cheers mate - means nothing to me but I'm sure Matt will be able to make sense of it all :)

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Cheers mate - means nothing to me but I'm sure Matt will be able to make sense of it all :)

 

 

i'm just quoting from the manual, it don't make much sense to me either! :D but if you or Matt can find someone local with the engine manual that CJ supplied then at least it has the procedures in it that like you say Matt will be able to follow.

 

good luck with it........

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Er, you are right, weird. The EPC shows a picture of one, as you can search for the word "CRANK" and it comes up with the picture of it. BUT, when you click to get the part number it says "Not Applicable", strange. It is especially strange as the small bolt that it shows to hold it in place has a part number for it? :blink:

 

Strange EPC issue and my cock up as well sorry for the run around Chris :blush:.

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OK, all bolted back together (cam belt tensioner refitted) -

 

a) how do I reset the tension on the cambelt (do I need to since nothing was moved?)?

 

Hi Chris

Did you compress the pin the in tensioner before fitting it on the car? You need to compress the pin into the tensioner (with a vice or similar) and then slide a small allen key or somesuch (drill bit?) through the holes in the body of the tensioner and the hole in the pin so that the pin is held back until you have refitted the tensioner. Once it's back on the car you can pull the allen key out, hand grenade stylee, and it will adjust the cambelt tension correctly. If you don't do it this way the cambelt tension will be way to high and may result in a snapped or prematurely worn belt.

 

Apologies if you already knew this. Better safe than sorry :)

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Matt came round this evening and we visually inspected the dizzy and checked the air gaps and continuity at the pick-up/ECU. Since everthing was fine the next step is the ECU.

 

Abs, I notice you have one on ebay - Dave F's comng over Sunday to do a quick ECU swap and if it works then I'll be buying yours off ebay (assuming it's still there):)

 

If not then lots more heads/arses scratching until we can figure out what's next to check:(

 

Fingers crossed:d

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:( :( :(

 

Dave F came round (cheers mate, sorry there was no beer/tea) and we quickly tried his ecu in my car with no joy:( Looks like it may be back to the dizzy then???

 

 

i can loan you the dizzy for testing if you like just cover the postage :)

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Abs,

 

Cheers for the dizzy - I did the swap this evening (just beat the rain) re-plugged the ecu and ---- still nothing :( :(

 

I'm now at a total loss - the engine light now flashes '2' where it was a '12' and I'm totally confused/frustrated.

 

It's especially bad as I have some lovely new bling stuff from Colsoop to fit and a (now nice and shiny/painted) set of UK front brakes!!

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right if you have fuel and spark then you should be looking towards the timing. i know you have had the belt tensioner off so make sure your timing marks are were they should be then re-check to see if you have fitted the distributor correctly ie when the timing marks on the cambelt are aligned remove the distributor cap. the rotor arm should be facing towards no1 spark plug lead, also check direction of rotation of leads to make sure the leads are fitted correctly for firing order if all that checks out fine then i'll go for a compression check +fuel pressure check.

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I'll start to give all tht a go tomorrow - I checked the dizzy/rotor alignment vs TDC at the crank but haven't checked the cams yet to make sure they both lign up too.

 

Hard to hear the fuel pump - I think I'll need to get someone to switch on whilst I listen to the rear underside of the car - pretty sure we could hear fuel when we cranked her earlier this week.

 

I'll do a compression test (any ideas on the numbers I should be looking for?) although I can't see that being a problem since the engine wasn't under load when it stopped (2krpm/15-20mph max) and it was a very sudden stop i.e. no spluttering etc. like you'd expect when one cylinder gave way.

 

I can't see any way the whole head would suddenly pop off but I will do a comp test anyway just to rule it out :) :) I'm still convinced it's an electrical fault somewhere.

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Looks like it was the cams!! The exhaust side was OK but the inlet side was sitting at about 10 o'clock!!

 

Next question - how the hell do you compress the cam belt tensioner??? Mine seems totally solid (even putting all my bodyweight - 17st - didn't budge it).

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Yeah! Cracked it now cheers - I had a look in some manual somewhere and it said to lean on it and push a pin in - no way was that happening LOL!

 

Cams are all as they should be now and the car does at least sound like it wants to start but still no joy. Got some confusing error codes???

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