Blitz Twin Turbo Installation

[TLicense]

After what has seemed an absolute age of waiting for stuff to happen, I've managed to crack on over the weekend and get some bits sorted. I'm hoping to have a big push and to get the car back on the road before May.

 

On Dimitri's advice, I decided to get the injector top-hats welded to the inlet plenum to prevent any boost leaks under boost. Doing this meant that I had to strip off all of the inlet side. Again.

So anyway, strip away I did.

Whilst the inlet plenum was off, it gave me an ideal opportunity to change the bolt that holds the oil filter mount assy to one that I could plumb a pressure sensor into.

Here's the standard bolt. You can see I've undone it a little:-

And here's the replacement with my AEM 150psi pressure sensor attached. The Toyota part number is 90401-19008:-

Now the AEM pressure sensor comes with a 1/8NPT thread on it. The union bolt comes with some other thread, which is about 8mm dia, so I had to buy a 1/8NPT tap and drill and tap the bolt out. It's not the best in the world, as 1/8NPT isn't a million miles away from about 8mm so it's not the tightest thread in the world, but is just about bites up as the sensor is nearlly fully wound in. (The thread on the sensor is tapered). I also used PTFE tape to help seal the thread. There's a star washer that goes behind the bolt.

 

As mentioned I had the top hats for the injectors welded to the inlet runners:-

No boost leaks for me!

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One thing I'd forgotten when I fitted the inlet plenum before, was that as I'm keeping the charcoal cannister, there's a VSV that is used for it. It's mounted under the pressure cannister usually. I've modified pressure cannister bracket to get rid of the supports for the pressure cannister, as I'm not using it which means I'd lost the mount for the VSV. There's just enough room to drill a hole in the bracket and mount the VSV without it fouling the wiring loom when it's all re-fitted:-

Here's my completed inlet runner assembly:-

 

So I re-fitted this the same as I did before, and then fitted the fuel rail, the same as I did before.

However before I fitted the inlet plenum, I had to wire up the injector connectors. I was told by someone on here, and later confirmed it myself, that it doesn't matter which way around the injectors are wired. So I simply cut the connectors off, and wired on the new ones, and then covered the joints in heatshrink:-

I did the same for the other six.

I then re-installed the rest of the inlet plenum. You could be confused into thinking it was almost there now!:-

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I then started looking at the wiring for the fuel pumps.

This needs to be fused, so I decided to use a couple of spare slots on the engine bay fuse box:-

 

I started by undoing the three nuts to release the distribution board:-

Lift up the distribution board and gently release the rubber water seal:-

I then unclipped the rear cover:-

 

Then using a stock connector (I'll try to dig out the part number later) I connected a eyelett connector rated to 30amps:-

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I then pushed this into the back of the distribution board. To do this, you first need to pull out the yellow lock on the other side:-

And then just push the connector into the back until it clicks. The orientation needs to be as I have it here otherwise it won't fit:-

I did this twice (Once for each pump) and then connected them both to the main battery feed:-

 

I then took another 2 of the stock connectors and soldered them both to about 3 metres of 40amp rated wire:-

And fitted the connector into the corresponding other slot on the distribution board.

 

To route the cable out of the fuse box, rather than having the wires kind of just hanging out the side, I decided to push them down the stock rubber seal. It was a bit of a pain feeding 3 metres, and then another 3 metres of cable down there, but needs must!:-

At the bottom of the rubber seal, there's a small hole (at least there was on mine, it looked like it should be there) I fed the wire out of this:-

With both of these done, I then re-fitted the distribution board:-

Now I can run the pumps using a couple of 25 or 30 amp fuses without having to worry about overloading anything else, and above all it looks like that's how it supposed to be!

[TLicense]

I then thought about how to get the cable to the very back of the car. It's going to have to go through the interior of the car. So first of all I threaded all 6 metres of the cable through some large heat-shrink (It has to be large enough for the 2 power feeds, and the control feed for the relays, as they'll be joining it once it's in the cabin and near the footwell) Feeding it through this was a REAL pain in the arse, and took me about an hour :-

To get it into the cabin, I decide to go through into the inner wing, and then into the cabin through a large grommet I know is down there.

To do this I had to partially remove the inner wheel arch. Here you can see the cable coming into the wheel arch through the existing hole in the engine bay:-

Then using a sharp scalpel, I made an X shaped incision into the grommet. (Do this rather than making a hole as it'l less likely to let any water in) and then fed the cable through:-

This is about where I got to for now. As I had to tidy it all up a little I fed the cable to where it was going to live, under the carpet:-

You can see how nice and neat it looks in the engine bay:-

Hopefully next weekend, I'll get the control feeds from the ECU wired in, and fed through the heatshrink, and get the whole lot fed into the boot (have to remove the rear interior) and wired up to the fuel pump relays. I'll then be able to run the pumps and pressure check the entire fuel system....

[TLicense]

Well I finally got the last bit of fabrication work done this week.

As I'm getting it all ceramic coated, I wanted to make 100% sure that it all fits and that there aren't any hidden issues.

So I spent today fitting everything together on the turbo side.... and I'm pleased to say, after a little bit of tidying up, it's all good!

Anyway, here's a few pics of how it's going to look when it's all complete:-

 

I then started to make up and test fit the PCV hoses:-

 

I then started to make up the oil lines for the turbo's. I got both the feed lines made up, and one of the returns, but didn't get any pics. I'll get them when I'm assembling it for the final time in 2 weeks time.

Other things I managed to do, was to remove the spare water fitting on the water pump and fill the hole with a 10mm core plug, similar to that which I used on the water elbow before. I used an 8mm core plug on the spare T on the water tube at the back of the engine. So that's tidied that up quite nicely.

Anyway, after that, time was cracking on, so I then had to completely strip all the manifolds and pipework, so they can be taken to Zircotec in Didcot tomorrow to be coated. It should take 5 working days to do, and for a 2" pipe costs £35 for every 12"'s. Roughly costing it out, it should come to about £450 or so. I'm then going to wrap it in exhaust wrap to give it the full belts and braces. (It's going to get REAL hot under the hood)

Anyway, so that was my day. I'll let you all know how I get on with this ceramic coating in a couple of weeks time.

Not long now though until she'll be ready for mapping....that's if Dan ever get's back to me. Hopefully just in time for Summer!!!

[TLicense]

I've just got back from dropping off the pipework at Zircotec (details:- http://www.zircotec.com/ceramics.html)

First of all, I was a million miles out on my costing. It came in just under £850!! Whilst I was there, they were taking orders for Honda F1, Koenigsegg, Ferrari, and I know they do all the ceramic coating for Spyker (both cars and F1).

 

One interesting thing they did mention when I said my intention was to wrap it afterwards, was not to soak the wrap first. They said that this is a major cause of the manifolds cracking. They recon that the wrap absorbs and retains some moisture. When the exhaust get's hot this moisture is held against it, causing it to fatigue.

[TLicense]

Here's a couple of pics of the connector I'm using on the resistor pack:-

 

As you can see the plug has a flange so I can make a bracket that will mount in the same location as the stock connector.

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I managed to get the relays wired up today. Unfortunately though, I grabbed my camera as I was in a rush, but didn't grab the battery so sorry guys, no pics

 

Basically though, it was a case of removing the rear seat and getting the wiring through to the boot area, then using the exiting lead from the ECU as a control for my relays, and then hooking the leads I made up from the fuse box to the power side of both the relays.

I cut the stock ground wire for the pumps near the ground point and connected that up to the supply from one of the relays, and used the stock 12v supply for the pump as the supply from the other relay.

I also spliced the lead from the Fp pin on the diagnostic port to the control wire from the ECU, so I can run the pumps by connecting the Fp pin to a 12v source with the rest of the car turned off. Much like it would if it was all stock

 

Certainly getting close now....

[SimonB]

Just curious Tony as to why you used 2 fuses and wire runs for the pumps rather than 1 bigger one? If you blow one fuse it will presumably take out one pump only whereas if you had a single fuse it would either work or not. Was it just the gauge of wire you would need?

[TLicense]

To be honest it hadn't crossed my mind. I needed two feeds for the twin relays and it seemed fairly simple to just run twin lines with twin fuses.

But yes I wouldn't have been able to run a single line due to the gauge wire. Well not with the gauge wire that I had.

It won't really matter either way though, as I'll be fitting a piece of kit I've been working on that will let me know if one of the pumps stop working.

[TLicense]

I've just been sent a picture from Zircotec of some bits of the pipework. The bit on the left is finished. The bit on the right has had the nickle base coat applied, will then be coated with the ceramic, and will then be painted black.:-

[TLicense]

I picked up the pipework from Zircotec today. All looks pretty good some I'm happy with that.

Here's a couple of shots of the coating:-

And here's a couple of the inlet piping that I asked them to paint black. Personally I would say it's come out more of an anthracite:-

 

Tomorrow I'm going to hopefully do the final fit to the turbo's, the oil/wastegate actuator/breather lines, and fit the injector resistor pack. If I've got time I'm also going to fit the UK headlights I've got.

[TLicense]

Cheers for your support guys.

 

Jesus it's been a hard day today though.

I started off by deciding to finish off the injector resistor pack installation.

As mentioned before to get around the fact that I don't have a Toyota plug to connect the resistor pack, I cut the stock one off of the stock resistor pack I'd bought and replaced it with a Deutsch Autosport connector. These are bloody good bits of kit, but need to be assembled correctly. I'd already done the plug on the reistor pack, but I had to assemble the socket that connected to the loom I was making to connect to the car.

Before you start you need a crimping tool. These are usually ridiculously expensive. So if you decide to ever use Autosport connectors, it's probably best to beg/borrow/steal one :-

Then there's the actual connectors that you need to attach the wires to. These are about 60p each:-

The plug comes with a connector insertion and extraction tool:-

If you look carefully at the connector, there's a cross hole at the bottom of where you insert a stripped wire. This is so you can see when the wire is fully inserted. You can use this to make sure that you don't strip too much insulation, but the wire is fully inserted:-

Now set the crimp size selector to the size appropriate to the connector/wire that you want to crimp:-

Open up the crimp tool:-

Then insert the connector:-

[TLicense]

Insert the wire into the connector:-

And close the tool. There are 8 little prongs the ratchet out into the connector, crimping it pefectly :-

So inserting these into the plug is real easy. Using the insertion tool, feed it over the top of the wire, up to the back of the connector:-

Deutsch connectors have the pin numebers on the front and back of the plug, so you can match up the numbers really easy. So then you just push it into the back of the plug!:-

Job done!:-

You can buy a rubber boot that will heat shrink onto the back of the plug/socket, but I'd forgotten to order them. So I sealed it using a combination of shrink wrap and insuating tape:-

[TLicense]

I then wired in the loom using Hecklers fantastic guide that can be found here:-

http://www.internetwork.org.uk/Injectors/Injectors.htm

The only difference was that I found that 4 of my Black and orange wires were connected together just to the right of where you open up the loom. Literally they were all spliced together from stock. So I cut them at the splice point and connected all the wires to the left to the 6 black feeds from the resistor pack, and connected the single wire that they were originally spliced to to the single white feed:-

I'm pretty sure that's the right thing to do. If anyone knows otherwise, shout out.

Anyway so I then insulated it all back up and voila. Jobs a good 'un.:-

The two wires you can see here that are cut but not connected to anything have continuity to the single feed I'm using. This is even with connector IJ1 disconnected. I'm assuming they're spliced in a little further down the loom, as the splice for the other wires was pretty chocka:-

Anyway, so here it is all fitted:-

[TLicense]

So then the pain began.....

Making up the remaining hoses and fitting the turbo manifolds and downpipes. This has to have been the biggest pain of all so far.

It all seemed to start off fairly easy. I'm using exhaust wrap as well as the ceramic coating on my exhaust manifolds and downpipes to reduce engine bay and inlet temps.

The easiest way to assemble all the pipework for my kit is to start from the bottom. So we started off by wrapping up the downpipe:-

Rather than use large jubilee clips to hold the wrap in place, it was recommended to me, that I should use lock wire instead. It looks a hell of a lot better:-

So we then went and fitted that no problems.

[TLicense]

Now I'll hold my hands up and say all of this is my doing. A lot of the joins in the pipework are slip joints where one pipe slides into the other. I'd forgotten to mark off where zircotec should/should not ceramic coat on the balance bar between the two manifolds. The build up of ceramic material meant the pipe that should slip into the other was too big now. So we had to sand it all back in this area. This stuff is pretty tough believe me! I spent about an hour getting the two manifolds to join back together.

Once in though, I would have to say it lookds pretty bloody good :-

 

So now that I was able to mount the manifolds together, I could then mount the turbo's and then finish making up the oil feeds. I must have had the manifolds on and off 20 times. The upshot after all that is the oil return from the rear turbo is still to short. ARRGHGHGH!!! I was starting to loose it at this point so I figured I'd leave that till tomorrow.

So I went on to fitting the feeds to the wastegates. Another 20 on and offs of the manifold later, and finally I've got the lengths and the fittings sorted:-

However before doing the final fit on this, I needed to sort out the wastegate return pipe. I don't really like screamer pipes, so I've had this made so that it feeds back into the exhaust. The return pipe is made in two sections that slip into each other that connect back to the downpipe. Where they slip into each other I needed to make up a clamp. I bought what I was told would easily do the job, which was a make it yourself jubilee clip. They were absolute rubbish. They only took about 20 minutes each to make up, and then didn't have the clamping force to seal the pipes. I'm going to have to sack them off and sort out some kind of pipe clamp. So that brought an end to todays proceedings. Roll on tomorrow.....

[TLicense]

Well it's taken 3 weeks short of a year, and after a final, non-stop, 25 hour marathon session, I've finally finished the installation.

 

Boy did we have some issues though. It's not been a difficult day for sure. Unfrotunately it meant I didn't get as many pics as I would have liked.

The plan was simple. Do the final fit on for the manifolds, hoses, turbo's, everything!

I started mid-day yesterday, Fitted the manifold, with the wastegate as above. However as I bolted the manifols up to the block, I noticed that the gasket wasn't pinching up under one of the nuts. That's odd I thought, it must be binding on something. It looked like the fwd wastegate was either touching the engine mount, or it was bloody close to it, so I took it apart and rotated the top around 1 hole pattern so that it cleared. Just a note, when taking these apart, be very carefull. It's all sprung together, and if I hadn't had been used a couple of very long bolts to take out the pre-load, it looked like it was wanting to take my head off.

Anyway, so re-fitted that, only to find the gasket still not pinching up. So figured it must be binding on the studs. So strip the manifold back off, and grind the studs down. Re-fit the manifold. Still holding off, just under this one nut. After a large amount of fitting and removal, it turned out that the manifold flange was warped. Not good.

Luckily though I do have access to a workshop, so I stripped the wastegates off, and all the exhaust wrap, set it all up on a mill, and proceed to spend the next 4 hours skimming the flanges flat. (These manifolds really are the most awkward things in the world to hold on a mill - no really!)

So by now we're into the very small hours. I then proceed to start re-fitting everything.

The way to fit this kit is from the exhaust up. So first of all, the downpipe and the wastegate returns:-

Then the manifolds. You can see how quickly the exhaust wrap gets grubby looking. Especially when the manifold has been on and off about 50 times. :-

Next the turbo's. The easiest way to fit these was to put the bolts in that hold them onto the manifold, but leave them loose. Then fit the downpipes and with the turbo's loose, do the bolts up to the downpipes, then do the bolts up for the turbo's. Not forgetting to fit the gaskets of course

Here's a pic of the front turbo. I'd decided to use mikalor clamps to hold all the couplings together. The blue silicon couplings are temporary measures whilst I wait 10 week for some nice black hoses to come in. :-

win%20Installation%202/IMG_2217_800x533.jpg[/img]

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In that pic you can also just make out the feed for the front wastegate. To be honest the position of this isn't the best. It's fairly close to the fan. However if you look from above, it clears the fan. Even if you bend the fan back a good amount (as it would in normal operation):-

Here you can just make out the feed for the rear wastegate. It's quite important to make sure that the feed doesn't come into contact with the steering column of the downpipe (which is a very difficult thing to achieve - believe me!) :-

Here you can see where the feed from the turbo's to the CW intercooler, goes through the stock hole in the wing. :-

Here you can just see the feed from the charcoal cannister into the inlet manifold. (My contribution to saving the planet ) :-

 

With that all done I had a few tidying jobs to do. First of all was the fuel hoses. My lines are too big to fit into the stock cover, so during the week, I've been making up some simple brackets out of carbon that use the stock cover mounting points. I'm still using the stock cover to shield the brake lines, and these just protrude out to the side. Sorry I didn't get a pic of them in situ, but I'm sure you get the idea. If anyone wants some pics, I'll get some when I get a chance:-

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I had planned, and still plan to in the future, make a shield in carbon to go around the brake lines and get it ceramic coated. However, in the mean-time I just wrapped them in some spare exhaust wrap:-

 

And with that, the installation is pretty much complete!

I also did a few tidy up/finishing jobs, like checking that the fuel pumps worked and that it wouldn't just blow up. (Fire extinguisher at the ready, and lots of bottom clenching involved there I can tell you! )

I also decided to fit the UK headlights that I'd bought sometime last year. WOW what a difference they make!

J-spec:-

UK:-

Half finished:-

Job done:-

And with that, the mechanical installation of everything is complete! Yay!:-

 

There's a couple of 5 minute things to do. I've got to fit the dump valve when the circlip, o-ring and hoses arrive. I'm also going to try fitting a TRD stut brace and fit a couple of turbo supports off of it. But I'm not 100% sure the brace will clear the turbo's so that remains to be seen.

I've also got some new volks turning up sometime this week, which I'll fit.

Tomorrow I'm going to do a full fluid change, ready for Dan to come and put a basemap on it on Wednesday, with a mind to sticking it on the rollers a week later for the final map.

 

I'll post up how I get on, and also post reliability and driveability updates in the coming weeks.

 

Many thanks to all those who have helped, and the many kind words I've received. Hopefully in about a weeks time or so I'll be able to say that it was all worth it.

I'd also like to give special thanks to my Dad, Geoff. Without him, this really would have been impossible. Thanks matey.

 

Cheers,

[TLicense]

Righto'

 

Here's the latest news.....

 

SHE'S RUNNING!!!

 

It's been a bit of a week to get it to this point, but it's slowly getting there.

 

So last Monday, I took the car to turbofit where the car was MOT'd and the exhaust was put on. It was nice to meet Greg and his crew, and also Jamie P, who has quite clearly lost the plot! Good to meet you Jamie.

 

So with that done, on Tuesday I took my car over to Marlin motors for Dan Turner to map. That's where the fun begins.

He was struggling a bit as every now and then the car would run rich. Like mad rich. He thought he'd sorted it after changing a parameter in the calibration, and it seemed to clear it up quite a bit, but there was just the occasional misfire that he put down to either coil packs or plugs.

Now earlier I mentioned that I wound the wastegate springs all the way out, to make them as soft as possible. The problem being that I wasn't sure if they would open at 1psi, 10psi, 50psi or whatever, so winding them all the way out was as good as it was going to get in the safety stakes. The problem is, that this equates to 0.5bar of boost. (I had tested them at work, and thought it was more like 1.2 bar, obviously something wrong with how I tested them!)

The other problem is that they're only making that 0.5bar boost at 5000rpm. Not great.

So just as I'm getting boost, my camshafts are running out of grunt.

So anyway, with only 0.5 bar boost, I'm making 340bhp, and 300lb/ft torque (400Nm). Not exactly pub bragging rights, but then hey it's only 0.5bar boost (less than stock).

So that was pretty much as far as we could get on the dyno, untill I either fitted a boost controller to raise the boost (and possibly hold the wastegates shut in order to make boost earlier) or fit some camshafts to enable the engine to breath at higher RPM's. Here's a couple of shots of the dyno plot:-

 

 

 

On the way home though, the misfire got worse and worse, and ended up being, what I would describe as REALLY bad.

I figured it was coil packs or plugs, so decided to check how many I would need (in the case of coil packs) and I would determine this by turning off each feed to the coil packs individually using the AEM, and see which cylinders didn't make a difference when turned off. Turns out just no. 4 was causing the problems. Cool.

 

So to see if it was plugs or coil packs, I swapped the coil pack on no.4 with the one on no.2. I then swapped the plugs from no.4 to the plug on no.3. Now All I had to do was re-do the "turning coils off" test as before and see if either no.2 or no.3 was causing the problems. Strangely enough, it was still no.4. OK so that meant that the plugs and coil packs were OK.

 

So I thought, maybe it's just not getting any spark, so plugged a plg into a coil pack and held the plugs against the head to see if would spark with the car being turned over. Yep that seemed to work OK. So the ignition's fine, so what else could it be?

 

So worse things first, I checked the compression. Perhaps there was a burnt valve or something and was getting no compression. Nope, all came in within 20psi of each other.

 

So next fuelling. I then checked that injector no.4 was getting +12V feed, and had continuity to the resistor pack, and then onto the ECU. +12V, check. Continuity to resistor pack, no check! AHA!! Found it!

 

So I then went through checking all of the connections. Turns out the o'so expensive Deutsch Autosport connector that I showed how to build up, had a dodgy connector! I checked all the crimps I'd done, figuring I'd fecked it up somehow. All OK, it must be one of the actual pin-socket interactions. By this time I was fed up with it, so just cut the thing off, and soldered all the wires together. Started the car, and No misfire! Result!

However, the problem was that it was now running pig rich. I think the connector was limiting the injectors somehow when it had been mapped, and now that they had good connections, they were giving it full beans and it was running hellish rich.

 

So after another trip to Dan's on Thursday evening, leaving the car with him so that he could sort the cold start, he would then lean the map out and get it running sweet. Which to be fair to him, he has done. The drive, well, the only way I can describe it it as stock. Light throttle is just soooo smooth. A real night and day difference to how it was after Leon at JPS mapped it originally. No clunks when lifting off or applying throttle. Absolutely fantastic. Am well pleased with it. Cheers Dan.

 

So now it's on to making some decent boost at a decent RPM. Now here Dan and I's opinions divulge a little. He seems to think that due to the size of the turbo's, it's just never going to have enough mass flow of exhaust to getting the turbo's spinning any earlier, whereas I'm pretty sure that they'll spin up early, but the very weak wastegate spring setting is allowing the wastegate to slowly open up as the boost is made.

The reason why I think this is shown below. The top trace is boost, the 2nd revs, and the third throttle position. (Sorry for the rather small detail)

It starts to make boost (although not positive boost) and then at about 2000rpm odd, as soon as it becomes positive boost though, it plateau's off and then appears to make boost very slowly untill 5000rpm.

Now my arguement is that it's making the initial boost very quickly, whilst the wastegates are being sucked closed effectively. But as soon as any pressure is being applied to the springs, the rate of turbo speed acceleration (and consequently boost increase) suddenly drops.

If the problem was lack of mass flow then the boost curve would be really lazy all the way from the get-go.

 

So anyway, I've got a way of proving this. Well there's three ways of proving it. The first, I'm not sure if I'm going to do, which is to simply disconnect the wastegate feed and give it a hoon keeping a close eye on the boost to lift off if it gets above 1 bar.

Not too keen on that, as it relies on my less than fighter pilot reactions.

The second is to wind the pre-load on the springs back in. I'm also not keen on this, as if I wind it in too much, again I' could end up making lots of boost.

The third, and the one I'm going with, is to hook up a boost controller to the AEM. I'll tee off of the lines that are going to the front of the wastegate, join both them both together, and then have a single feed to a wastegate, which I'll then split again and run to the back face of the wastegate.

This way the pressure on the front of the wastegate, forcing it open will be reacted against the feed to the back of the wastegate. Then when the boost reaches 1.2bar, I can then close the boost solenoid via the AEM, and let the wastegates open. Sorted.

So anyway, I've ordered up all the lines required (more plumbing ) which should be here tomorrow, but unfortunately I'll not be able to fit it until 2 weeks time. Oh well, at least that gives me a bit of time to get used to driving a Supe as opposed to my Polo loan car.

 

So very nearly there now.

[ManwithSupra]

Is there anyway we can get this put in a pdf format with out the replys so its like a really good comprehensive guide

[Bobbeh]

Any more updates Tony?

[TLicense]

Not a great deal. Just the issues mentioned in the other thread to solve, which will be done hopefully in the next couple of weeks, and then a final mapping session. Hopefully I'll then be able to write a completion post.