Blitz Twin Turbo Installation

[TLicense]

In fact a -8 and a -6 will just about fit in there:

 

However there is a clip that used to hold the old return line, and holds a breather line. To help the hoses fit, I trimed this so that it was just holding the remaining breathre line:

 

 

 

And here's my lines. As you can see the feed line is was still a little long at this point, but the return is just right. After I took this shot, I trimmed the feed line back:

[TLicense]

Other than that, I picked up a couple of bits that I'd sent off to be powder coated. I was quite pleased with the results:-

 

 

Oh, yes I almost forgot. I also started looking at wiring in the relays for the twin pumps.

 

I'm thinking of fitting a couple of new fuses in the engine fuse holder. So I removed the distribution board too see what kind of connector I would need.

As you can see there are plenty of spare slots in the bottom row of this pic:

 

This is the connector I need to get, if anyone knows where I can find these exact same ones, please pm me:

 

Cheers

[TLicense]

OK for reference the part no. of the connector above is 82998-12140. They cost something like £2.50 each.

 

Anyway, did a little bit of work on the car today. Mainly wiring in the relays for the twin fuel pumps.

 

I started off by removing the fuel pump ECU as described above. Basically I'm not going to be using this for my install, so I'm going to mount the relays for the pumps where the fuel pump ECU usually can be found.

So anyway, here's the fuel pump ECU in all it's glory:-

 

 

 

 

Now to mount my relays, I'm going to rob the bracket off the back of this. It's spot welded on in 4 positions. To remove the bracket you need to drill out these welds with a 4.5mm drill bit. Once you've done that the bracket will just come away:-

 

 

There are 2 little protusions on the bracket that stop you from mating the bracket to anything flat, so I groung these off, and also tidied up the burr's on the holes I had drilled:-

 

 

For the relays I ordered 2 30Amp relays from Farnell. The part no. is RMD05012. However I needed a way to mount these, so I took a 90mm x 80mm piece of flat-stock CFRP, and drilled off a set of 4.5mm holes to suit the relays. I then lined up the bracket I had just salvaged and drilled 4 holes to line up with the ones on the bracket:-

 

 

Then it was just a case of riveting the bracket to the carbon using the drilled off holes, and then riveting the relays to the carbon. I decided to use rivets because if you want to use bolts then you have to bond some kind of nut to the carbon, unless you use a rivetted anchor nut, and if the relays ever fail, it's easy enough to drill the rivets out. Anyway:-

 

 

[Class One]

New posts copied to faq section.

[TLicense]

Here's a bit more of an update.

As I mentioned I had to get the car trailored to get the remaining pipework to be done. For the entirety of this project the car has been sat on axle stands. Before I could drop the car off of the stands I had to re-fit a couple of parts. Namely the upper front crossmember extension:-

The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 29Nm and the nuts which needed to be torqued to 33Nm. I then re-fitted the front lower arm bracket stay:-

The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 44Nm and the nut to 59Nm. Here's what they look like re-fitted (excuse the fact that it's upside down, the flash caused shadows across the pic otherwise!) Notice lots of anti-sieze grease to help when removing these components in the future:-

Once that was done, I could drop the car back onto the wheels.

Before the pipework was to be fabricated, I wanted to make sure that everything that could be put back onto the car was, so that the guy knew where he could and couldn't run the pipework. So I fitted as many of the oil fittiings as possible. The actual oil lines aren't fitted as I will route these around the pipework once that's done, but at least by doing this he will know that there is going to be something there, and not leave me without any space to fit them. Here's the rear turbo oil feed fitting:-

I also fitted the hose from the heater matrix to the no2 water bypass hose (pipe running vertically through this pic:-

I also fitted the return fitting for the oil feed. This is usually done with a block that has a 45 degree fitting screwed into it with a hose fitting fitted to that. The reason for the 45 degree fitting is that you need to avoid a stud and nut that's on the power steering pump. As I didn't have a fitting for this, I made my own using 10mm thick aluminium. I cut the ally to using the stock return as a template. I wanted to guarantee that the fitting would end up in the right direction to clear the stud/nut, and have some control over where it was going to end up pointing, and as I was needed 2 feeds, I decided instead of the usual 45degree fitting to go for this little assembly:-

Which consisted of a M18 to -6 male to male convertor, with a M18 copper washer to prevent leaks. Then a -6/-6 male to -6 female 'T' going to a -6 straight to hose on one side and a -6 90 degree to hose on the other. It fitted a treat (Note the stuf and nut directly below the fitting in this pic):-

When fitting this I also replaced the gasket which was part no. Y15472-46010.

[TLicense]

I then had a bit of a decision to make. I never really liked the way that the two pipes on the water outlet are blanked off with a piece of hose that goes from one pipe to the other.

It never seems very professional to me. I had already decided that I was going to clean it up anyway, so I removed it by undoing the two bolts shown here:-

And undoing the clip to the rad hose:-

Then it's a case of pulling it off of the no.1 water bypass pipe. It's a bit tight as it's got a couple of rubber O'rings to stop it from leaking, but with a bit of waggling back and forth it soon came off. Here you can see the O'ring on the no.1 water bypass pipe.:-

With the water outlet removed, I then pulled the two pipes out using a pair of stilsons. This was quite easy for the first one but really hard for the second, but they did come out:-

With that done I then set about blanking the holes, and my Dad came through with some water blanking plugs that he uses at work. (Thanks Dad! ) I also gave it a bit of clean-up in a sandblaster. Before doing this I decided to remove the two sensors. The larger one came out really easy. The smaller one... Boy what a pain in the arse this was! First of all the nut part of the connector rounded off, then when I tried to mole grip / stilson it out it disintegrated into about a million parts. So I tried to easy out the remainder, but as the metal was so soft, the easy out was just forming a reverse thread! SO I had to resort to drilling out the remaining brass and then re-tapping it. IIRC it was an 8.7 drill and a 3/8 BSP tap - the water temp sensor itself has a taper thread on it so I used PTFE tape when re-fitting. The part no. Y83420-20040, although there was an option of two, but this one seemed to fit OK.

Anyway here's the blanking plugs:-

You can see that they fit flush:-

[TLicense]

The top sensor here was the one that gave me problems:-

And here's the water outlet re-fitted :-

Other bits and bobs, well I fitted the engine hook on the exhaust side which you can see in the above picture. The bolts need to be torqued to 39Nm.

I also received a few bits back from the powder coaters. Here's the throttle control cable bracket:-

And with the rubber piece re-fitted (I used some WD40 on the rubber to help push it on):-

and the chamber stay:-

and also the inlet manifold stay:-

Here's the throttle control cable bracket and the chamber stay test fitted (the inlet manifold will be coming off again to final fit everything else under the manifold) :-

 

Other than that I received the Air filter for the idle solenoid:-

And that is pretty much it. Hopefully if the weather holds for the next few days I'll be able to get some more done

 

Cheers

[TLicense]

Looking good sir. Are you not worried that -6 is a little small for oil return ???

 

Nah, it's a -4 feed, and the restrictor hole in the Blitz supplied fitting as absolutely tiny (maybe 3mm max!) so basically twin -6's (although I agree it's going to a single -6 after the T) should be OK.

 

Here's the hole in the feed to the turbo:-

[Miguel]

Should be ok bud,

 

Usually most returns are a fair bit bigger even with restrictors for DBB to promote free flow.For reference most if not all after market feeds are -4 and that's on singles twins and DBB

 

Oil can get , for want of a better word, "whipped" up on exit of the return. You want the oil out of the turbo to get out as fast as possible in order to have fresh oil sitting on the bearing, hence the return should really be a "gravity or least resistance path" return instead of pressure. The stock system is a good indicator of this, that you took of, the return is much bigger than the feed. HKS twins for example also have the restrictor feed but the return is almost -10. Not a knock but just a highlight.

 

Top notch install, very neat and fantastic write up which will help loads of people out. keep up the good work . We need more like this!

[TLicense]

I managed to get a chunk of work done on the fuel pump hanger assy as this has been sat on the side for quite some time now.

 

As I mentioned previously, a -8 90degree fitting will not fit under the fuel tank inspection cover. To get around this problem, I decided to use a -8 banjo fitting:-

 

 

The problem with this is that the WOTM fuel hanger isn't thick enough to be able to screw a banjo bolt in from one side and then an hose adaptor on the other side to connect to the pumps.

So to get around this, I machined the opening from 3/4 to 22.5mm OD and tapped it M24 x 1.5. I then machined a 25mm OD piece of steel bar so that it had a 24mm OD end the same thickness as the hanger and then cut an M24 x 1.5 thread onto that. I then drilled the centre of it 11/16" and then tapped it to 3/4-16 to fit the -8 fitting.

I could then screw this into the top of the hanger, which essentially extends the thread depth so that I could fit it all. In this pic you can see the metal boss (I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow):-

 

I also did the same thing for the return feed, but this time machined it to suit -6 rather than -8.

 

I then started to turn my attention to wiring the pumps in. As has been mentioned many times, the stock set-up isn't man enough to run two pumps at potentially 30amps each. The wiring gauge is nowhere near big enough. Another pain was the fact that the pigtail on the connector for the Walbro's I have aren't quite long enough.

So to sort this out I completely took apart the connectors for the pumps and the stock connector. I then stripped the wires from the terminals and re-crimped/re-soldered some wire rated to 35 amps.

I've connected the positives of both pumps to the stock bulkhead connector, and will connect the earths of both pumps to the hanger itself, which will in turn be earthed.

I didn't get any pics of the connectors dissassembled (there was a massive amount of effing and blinding!)

 

 

I tested them out by running 12 volts through them, and the earths grounded to the hanger and it seemed to work pretty well. All I have to do now is to securely connect the earth's using a couple of nordlock washers (I really don't want them working loose!!! ) and that's one job ticked off....

[TLicense]

Managed to finish off the fuel pump hanger assembly today.

 

First of all, I wasn't happy with the way the wiring was installed. I'm extremely paranoid about wiring in the fuel tank. After all you only get one chance to get it wrong.

To ensure that there was no chance of any of the wires working loose or anything touching any bare wire and causing any kind of spark, I decided to pot all of the connectors using some 3M 2-pack glue (Can't remember the part no. of the stuff, but I'll find out and post it up)

Here's the wiring loom as it started off:-

You can see how the wiring is showing on this pump connector:-

And on this connector to the stock electrical connector:-

 

After glueing and spending an hour in an low heat oven to help cure the glue this is what it looked like:-

 

The ground wires were crimped, soldered then potted with glue:-

No big explosions for me then!

[TLicense]

Next I set about finishing off the actual installation of the wiring loom.

At this point I got fed up with the stock bolts (some kind of imperial size, can't remember what) so I drilled and tapped them out to M5's for fixing the ground wires from the pumps to the hanger and M8's for fixing the ground wire from the hanger to the chassis.

I then assembled it all together:-

Here you can see the stock connectors with my new 35amp wiring:-

You can clearly see the extension piece I had to make to be able to fit the -8 male/male adpator and the banjo bolt to the top of the hanger:-

Here's how the ground wires were fixed. Don't worry the bolts aren't annodised so they will conduct fine. (I measured 1.6ohms from the power supply, through each pump and back to the hanger). I used nordlock anti-vibration washers under the ground wire bolts to prevent them from ever vibrating loose:-

Here's a pic of the top of the hanger with the banjo fittings I'm going to use. Obviously the centre is the fuel feed which is -8, the right hand side is the fuel return which is -6, and the lhs is the breather which again is -6:-

All in all, I would say there has been somewhere in the region of 15 hours work just in sorting this assembly, but I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out. Pity it had to be so modified and wasn't as it should have been from the shop. Oh well....

Anwyay I'll be fitting this along with the final installation of the fuel lines tomorrow

[TLicense]

I finished the installation of the fuel pump assembly today.

I had a couple of issues though.

First of all, when I went to fit the banjo fittings after putting the pump assembly into position and fitting the retainer ring (here's a tip, if you're struggling to re-fit the retainer ring try running some grease on the thread. Not too much mind, you don't want to be getting it in the fuel tank!) I found that as the banjo fittings sit very close to the top of the retainer ring, they fouled it. So I had to relieve some of the upper portion of the ring around each fitting:-

 

I then found even when just using banjo fixings and not the 90 degree bends that I'd originally hoped to use, it still fouled the inspection cover. To get around this I initially tried turning down the head of the -8 feed bolt. But it still clashed with the inspection cover, so there was nothing else to do than grind a small hole into the top of the cover. By the time I'd finished it was a not so small hole. It's not very neat but it's got the job done. If I were doing it again, I would just drill a hole just big enough to fit the bolt head through. I also drilled a 6mm hole through the inspection cover and fitted a gromet for my ground strap to go through:-

I've fitted the ground strap to the ground point on the rear bulkhead. I've given myself enough cable so that I can tape it to the floor of the boot so it won't catch on anything:-

I also fitted the fuel feed up to the fuel filter and produced an exact list of components that I've used for my fuel line set-up that I'll post later.

[TLicense]

OK so I set about finishing fitting all the fuel lines.

I can't stress how important it is that you route all the lines as safely as possible. I will be manufacturing a mount that I can attach a P bracket to that will be attached to the mounting points that the stock fuel hose cover bolts to. Once that's fitted I'll see if I need any further brackets to ensure that the lines are nice and secure and they won't get caught up on any road-debris. I couldn't get any decent pics of the routing, but basically you want to follow the stock routing as close as possible. I'll try to get some better pics when I mount all the support brackets.

 

Meanwhile, at the engine end....

The inlet manifold I fitted earlier was just to test-fit the lengths of the fuel lines. To final fit the lines, I had to re-strip the inlet manifold back off:-

I slightly removed the fuel rail as it's quite difficult to fit the return feed with it fitted in place. With the fuel rail removed I re-fitted the rear engine hanger (Torqued the bolts to 39Nm)

I then fitted the return feed. The return feed on my installation will drop between the number 3 and number 4 runners, under the inlet manifold, and then to the fuel pressure regulator, which will be mounted to the engine side end of the inlet manifold:-

Here's a pic of the PHR fuel rail mount, basically it's 2 right angled brackets that bolt to the stock location. Then there are 2 aluminium spacers that go between the brackets and the rail. You then put a bolt all the way through and put a nut on the bottom,

I used a couple of nordlock washers to make sure nothing would vibrate loose:-

 

I then fitted the crankshaft position sensor connectors:-

 

At this point I couldn't decide wether to fit pigtails to the injector looms or to get a plug in adaptor. I did initially decide to go for an adaptor but later decided to go for soldering the pigtails to the injector looms. I'll post pics up of that a bit later....

 

Anyway, in the meantime, I fitted the engine side fuel feed:-

 

And then set-about re-fitting the inlet manifold

[TLicense]

When fitting the inlet manifold, the first hose to re-connect is the water bypass hose to the ISC valve, and the water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the No.4 water bypass pipe.

I found it was easiest to temporarily re-fit the no.4 water bypass pipe, with the bypass hose fitted (this fits up between the no.3 and no.4 manifold runners):-

Here you can clearly see the hose going up between the runners in the top right of the picture:-

I then connected both hoses to the ISC valve:-

I then bolted the inlet manifold to the inlet runners. Fit a new gasket on and then tighten the 5 bolts and 2 nuts all to 27Nm. The manual does not state any specific order but I did them up evenly (it's good practice anyway):-

To get this centre bolt done, I undid the no.4 water bypass pipe from the manifold and moved the bypass hose as high as I could between the inlet runners:-

I then fitted the 2 bolts on the engine wire protector to the end of the inlet manifold:-

And fitted the ground wire:-

[TLicense]

I then fitted the manifold stay. It's quite imporant to ensure you get the manifold the correct sides of all the hoses the run under the inlet manifold (including the new fuel hoses). You don't want to end up snagging anything. The 2 manifold bolts are done up to 39Nm, I couldn't get a pic of the bottom one, but if you get the top on first then see where it puts the manifold you'll soon find the bottom bolt. Also getting the torque wrench onto the bottom bolts was an absolute nightmare. There was a lot of trial and error in fitting the correct combination of long/short series sockets and extensions. In the end I think it was a 1/2" short series 12mm socket connected to a 1/2" wobbler connected to a 1/2" - 3/8" step-down connected to my 3/8" torque wrench. On the botttom, I think it was a 1/2" 12mm socket connected to a 4" extension connected to a 1/2" wobbler conneted to a 1/2" to 3/8" step down connected to my 3/8 torque wrench. Anyway here's a pic of the top fixing:-

 

I also fitted (for the last time!) the no. 4 water bypass pipe:-

 

I then connected up a few of the connectors and hoses on the inlet manifold:-

The Inlet Air Temp sensor connector:-

The ISC valve connector:-

I also fitted the ISC valve filter:-

and the PCV hose:-

I also fitted the No.2 vacum pipe, that the diagnostic port mounts to using the 2 fasteners (hint, when trying to do these up keep a magnet handy to catch them if the fasteners fall. I think I must have spent 1/2 hour looking for these bloody things on the floor, just to find them perched on the crossbrace. Doh!):-

[TLicense]

With that fitted, I connected up the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister to the No.2 vacuum(how environmentally friendly of me! I wonder if I'll get into a lower tax band ):-

And the EVAP hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe:-

And the power steering air hose to the air intake chamber:-

 

It was a this point after the 845 pics that I've uploaded off my camera that the battery decided to die. Bugger. I carried on fitting a few bits and bobs, and when I get a chance (hopefully tomorrow, I'll take a few shots of the bits I missed)

 

Cheers

[TLicense]

OK, I've got a little time as the car is in the fab shop, so I figured I'd post up details of my fuel kit.

It's as follows:-

 

2 x Walbro 255 lph fuel pumps

2 x Jubilee clips

2 x 0.5m Startlight -6 hose

2 x -6 straight hose fittings

1 x -6 to -8 Y piece

1 x -8 to -8 male-male adaptor

1 x WOTM triple pump hanger (heavily modified)

1 x -8 banjo fitting

1 x -8 banjo bolt

2 x 3/4 copper washers

1 x -8 90degree hose fitting

3.04m -8 Aeroquip hose

1 x -8 straight hose fitting

1 x -8 dry break socket

1 x -8 dry break 45 degree plug (modified to about 30 degrees)

1 x -8 to -10 male to male adaptor

1 x aeromotive highe flow fuel filter

1 x -10 to -10 male to male adaptor

1 x -10 to -8 female to female adaptor

1 x -8 dry break plug

1 x -8 dry break socket

1 x -6 to -8 Y piece

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

1 x -6 45 degree hose fitting

0.35m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

0.92m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting

2 x -6 to -10 male to male adaptors

2 x o'rings

1 x PHR fuel rail

6 x Siemens Deka 870cc injectors

1 x o'ring

1 x -10 to -6 hale to male adaptor

1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting

0.68m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x -6 blanking plug

2 x o'rings

1 x Aeromotive FPR (13109)

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x o'ring

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

3.48m 06 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 banjo hose fitting

1 x -6 banjo bolt

2 x 1/2" copper washers

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

0.3m -6 Startlight hose

1 x -6 banjo bolt

2 x 1/2" copper washers

1 x -6 banjo hose fitting

0.25m -6 Startlight hose

1 x jubilee clip

 

The majority of fittings, I bought from http://www.thinkauto.com but some were bought from Earls, simply because they're 5 minutes from where I work, and I could get parts the same day. At some point I'll try to post up part numbers, and do a total quantities list.

 

Cheers,

[TLicense]

OK so the car is at the fabricators, and they have finally started working on the car.

They asked me to call in so I could see everything while it was still just tacked together to see if I was happy with the work they had done. I've asked them to make a few asjustments, but on the whole it looks pretty encouraging. They should be done by the middle of next week. I managed to get a few pics (sorry for the blurriness of the first one!)

 

Here you can see the downpipe from the front turbo snaking under the rear turbo. There isn't enough space for it to run parrallel to the block:-

 

For the downpipe, they've welded a Y-piece above the join for the exhaust This is where both downpipes from the turbo's join together. The downpipe from the rear turbo, runs over the top of the downpipe for the front turbo. This brings it pretty close to the brake master cylinder. Too close for my liking. They're going to see if they can create more space. If not I'm going to make a heat shield up:-

 

 

I've also asked them to create a "balance bar" which joins the two "collector" parts of the turbo manifolds together. Obviously being part of the exhaust manifold, they will be subjected to a lot of heat, so I asked for the balance bar to have a flexible section to cope with thermal expansion. They've created a sliding join, which has a labyrinth seal to stop the exhaust gases escaping. The only downside to this is, because the two parts of the pipe are interlocked together, both front and rear manifolds now have to be removed together, and then split. You can see how tight it all is, as this is the best shot I could get of where the balance bar joins into the front manifold:-

 

Here's a pic of the where the balance bar joins the rear collector. You can also see the -10 fitting for the oil return. Unfortunately this now fouls the balance bar, (Hence why the cartridge is currently rotated so that it's not vertical) so I'm going to have to get one of these with a 30 or 45 degree bend in to be able to rotate this back to how it should be:-

 

I've asked them to move the filter so that it's straighter to car-line, and also put a slight downwards bend to the pipes so that it easily clears the bonnet. They're going to make a stay that come off of the two stock fixings to the left of this picture (just in front of the strut towe):-

 

Other than that, I'm going on monday to remove the wheel and inner arch for them, so that they can fit a tube from the IC and out of the stock hole in the wing into the engine bay which will also have the B.O.V. mounted to (inside the inner arch). This will then have a Y fitting that will connect to both turbo's.

They're also fabricating a couple of turbo stays. I was hoping they would be able to fit these to the stock locations on the engine block, and then bolt to a couple of welded on studs to the bottom of the collector part of each manifold, but with the wastegate tubing in, it looks doubtfull that there will be sufficient space. So they're going to look at making one for the front turbo that is mounted off of either the strut tower, or the engine hook mounts, and the rear one will possibly come off the manifold studs. We'll see what it ends up looking like on that one....

[dk_supra]

Tony, you have so much patience my friend. My personal opinion about the fabrication, is that heat will create a lot of problems on brakes and valve covers. Watching your pics, i'm now 100% sure that the blitz kit was a gimmick from the blitz factory. If it wasn't they would have supplied all the parts to make it a kit. But now with just 2 manifolds, 2 gates and blowers, it's just basically not worth anything. I thing your cost will be a lot higher at the end than buying a new hks twin kit and installing two big ones 3037s on. On the other hand you will see that the twin kits on repairs, they are a bitch, too many things to take out. What if the gasket of the rear gate needs to be changed, or the blower's gasket. Good luck from the bottom of my heart. But when you want big, better go with an HKS SPL kit and you're done, install is 2 hours max, and piping is a breeze and ready for you. Simple, big, and easy to install. Good luck again.

Cheers

Dimitri

 

P.S. don't get me wrong i love the complexity looks of it, it's just the repair part that i hate, and since you are doing it all by yourself, man, you're gonna have some fun. I hope your buddies bring the beer and food, because every repair will take a few get togethers to be fixed.

[TLicense]

Dimitri,

I share the same concerns over the heat. Hence why I mentioned making up some heat shields, and having everything ceramic coated (heat-shields as well, although this will happen at a slightly later date)

I also agree about Blitz making this kit as a bit of a gimmick. The total lack of support is dissapointing to say the least, and given the choice of buying this kit at the RRP, or the HKS kit, I would recommend the HKS, as there is a lot less hassle involved.

However, that said, I don't think it's quite as bad as the picture you've painted. Whilst it's not going to be as easy as a single to strip it down, I can and have (many times over the last 6 months!) removed the manifolds with turbo's and wastegates attached in about 10 minutes flat. Even with all the pipework on there, I could still strip it all down in a lot less than an hour. The wastegates are easily accesable from under the car, so there's no problems there either.

I'm trying to make the installation as robust as possible, so hopefully there will be little need to strip it all down. It's making sure that nothing's going to be a problem, or if it could be, having a plan of action in advance that has caused the whole project to take so long.

Thanks for your comments though, it's good to take on board

[dk_supra]

I understand what you are saying Tony, it's just what i'm seeing from experience. After 5,000miles the nuts will not be as easy to take off. Heat makes wonders man. Ceramic coating on the other side doesn't really do anything. You will see it yourself. The only thing it does, is just look good when new and very ugly after 6 months of running and temps. You will see things in the future.

 

Best in terms of power and easiest to install kit ever is the T51 kit, in my opinion. The vband never have any leaks and they just are easy to install and uninstall. If you were doing that for a living you would have the same opinion with the people that work in my shop. In a few words they say "Death to the twin kits". It's such a pain to repair, and you cut your hands and then the balance pipe leaks, etc. etc., then the gate gaskets blow, forget it. Vband wastegates and v bands turbos, never leak. For your own shake though make sure you heat wrap the down pipes and put some expensive blankets on the turbos(like the BL ones), of course when you take them out they starting to disintegrate, but while on, they do the job. Since your steering wheel is on the right, you will feel the heat in the summer, you will see. GOOD LUCK.

[TLicense]

Cheers for the advice Dimitri. I've already got the BL blankets, and I'll take your advice and also wrap the down-pipes.

[TLicense]

Well only 5 and a bit weeks late, I've finally got the car back!

 

Whilst I'm very happy with the quality of the welds etc. There are a few little bits here and there that I'm going to get them to look at, but overall nothing major.

To be fair, it's a real nightmare job, and I think they've done as well as can be expected. I'll just have to give it a bit of TLC and she'll be right!

 

Anyway, here are a few pics, excuse the odd coupling that isn't fitted right. I'm still waiting on a set of mikalor's to arrive. (And better couplings!):-

 

 

 

 

 

 

Right, now that they've got all that lot on there, the first thing I've got to do is strip it all back off to get it ceramic coated. It never ends!

[TLicense]

Did a bit more on the car today.

 

After advice from Dimitri, I've decided to have the injector collets welded into the inlet runners. This meant having to remove all of the inlet side. A bit of a pain, but it only took an hour or so.

I also identified a couple of other issues with the recently fabricated pipework.

Namely the rear turbo to IC pipe doesn't line up correctly with the turbo outlet:-

And the pipe then goes VERY close to the downpipe from the front turbo:-

But there's plenty of space to do something to sort it out, so I'll get onto the fabricators first thing Monday.

 

I also received the other day a set of camcovers from Supradibbs with -10 PCV fittings, so I had a trial fit of these:-

Here you can see the exhaust cam cover PCV fitting. Although in this pic it is lining up with the rear turbo PCV inlet, I'm actually going to have the inlet cam PCV go to the rear turbo (it means just running a 180 degree fitting and hacing the hose go over the rengine, not ideal but the tidiest route I think) and then have a 90 degree fitting on the exhaust cam cover and the hose going to the front turbo inlet.

 

I've got a carbon spark plug cover appearing at some point, which I think will look great with it. I'm also going to fit some black AN fittings rather than the red and blue.

 

I've started to look at where I'm going to put the feed from the charcoal cannister.

I think I'll feed it just in front of the PCV fitting on the inlet to the rear turbo. What do you guys think?

 

Here's a pic of how it's lining itself up so far. Overall I'm quite pleased!