Blitz Twin Turbo Installation

[Ian C]

How did you clean the runners up that well?

 

-Ian

[TLicense]

Correct, sandblasted

[TLicense]

Well it was a fantastic day, so I thought I'd do some more work out on the car, although didn't get much done as I kept going inside to get a drink and getting distracted by the racing on the tele.

Anyway, I basically spent some time today starting to tidy up a few odds and sods seeing as hopefully I should have the remaining bits I've been waiting for this week, and will be able to install them the coming weekend.

 

I removed the fuel regulator, which was attached solely by the return hose:-

 

 

Then I removed the fuel filter, there's the two bolts holding the filter on, the earth cable, and of-course the captive connector for the supply hose. Note the cross section of the supply. This is being replaced with a -8 line:-

 

I also removed the fuel filter mounting bracket, as I'm going to need to fasten the aeromotive filter that's replacing the stock filter somehow, so will need to fabricate some kind of bracket.

 

The keener eyed ones amongst you, would have noticed that I've not removed the catalytic convertor completely yet. This is because the temp probe's fixing bolts (Note, I don't think UK cars have this) were 9/10's of the way to being completely rounded off. I had to remove the temp probe anyway, so figured I'd disconnect the probe which goes into the cabin via a grommet in the floor, and remove the whole lot in one go.

 

To do this, first of all I removed the drivers foot rest:-

 

Then the kick panel and lower door trim:-

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Then if you pull the carpet back from the front of the centre consol, you'll see this connector:-

 

If you disconnect this, and then follow the loom down to the floor, you'll find this grommet:-

 

If you push this grommet through the bottom of the floor using a screwdriver, you should then be able to pull the loom through, and then completely remove the catalytic convertor:-

Here you can see the grommet. I'll need to find a standard one of these to block the hole back up:-

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Parts all starting to roll in at last! Still waiting on Gaskets and Flanges though, although I shouldn't think they'll be long now.

 

Anyway here's the filter I bought, what's your thought's chaps?

 

 

And the last few parts for my fuel filter assembly came in today

 

 

No fuel leaking onto me when I have to strip it down and replace the filter :-

 

I also stripped the stock fuel lines and test fitted the -8 feed and -6 return lines on my day off yesterday. I then had to strip them back out to make the lines up, which I did tonight at work. They're being pressure tested at just over twice their maximum working pressure (150psi) tomorrow morning. When I get 5 minutes I'll post up pics.

[TLicense]

It's mahooosive. The whole assembly is 17inches long.

 

It fit's like a peach into the existing bracket too.

[TLicense]

Just an update on this.

Nothing has really gone on the car as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive. Mainly some banjo fittings to connect the fuel hoses through the fuel hanger, and also the gaskets and flanges for the turbo's. The good news is that I've got half of the gaskets, and have decided to make the remaining flanges myself. (Having a CNC machine shop at your disposal is a godsend!)

 

Other than that, I've started making up the fuel lines, and pressure testing them. It's quite a lengthy process, as they have to be the right length, and they all have to be pressure tested to twice the working pressure.

The injectors came back a while ago from flow testing and cleaning. A company I can quite happily recommend for doing this is HGL Motors. http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/

The injectors I've got are Siemens Deka 3105 low impedance. They're sold as 875cc, but actually flowed 888cc at 3 bar.

The pre and post clean results are as below. Note the values are for the amount of time given above each column, and should be converted to minutes to get meaningful values:-

 

Other things happening, well the fuel filter assembly sticks below the car too much. This is a problem but is easily cured by replacing the upstream straight dry break with a 45degree dry break.

 

I've also made the oil fittings that bolt to the turbo's and join to the block. I've got to make the oil-lines up this week and get them pressure tested.

 

I'm hoping that in the next 2-3 weeks I'll get the remaining bits and then within a couple of weekd of that, it should all be in a state where I can send it off to get the pipes fabricated.

I'm still hoping that everything should be finished this side of winter, but we'll see.

[TLicense]

Right,

 

I've done loads of work of late, and hadn't had a chance to write it up so here goes...

 

OK I mentioned that the fuel filter assembly was hanging too far below the car, well I replaced the up-stream fitting with a 45 deg one. The problem with this was that once you've done that, the hose fouls the floor of the car.

To get around this I disassembled the quick release and then using a blow torch heated the fitting up and bent it to the correct angle. It didn't need much. You need to disassemble it first, as there are rubber seals in there which would melt otherwise. This is what it now looks like:-

You can see the evidence of where I heated it up here:-

I did put some rubber between the filter and the mount originally, but after thinking about it, I removed it, as the filter should really be grounded. Here is a picture of the filter fitted. Notice the ground strap will go to the bolt hole on the bracket to the left of the picture:-

I did put some rubber between the filter and the mount originally, but after thinking about it, I removed it, as the filter should really be grounded.

This is how low the end of the filter sits now:-

I started to fit the hose the plumbs into this, but I haven't finished modding the fuel pump hanger yet, so will post up the rest of that when that's done (hopefully for next weekend)

 

So with that sorted I pre-fitted the fuel rail and the injectors, with the main aim being to get the hose from the y-piece on the downstream side of the filter to the rail the correct length's.

I spent quite a lot of time routing the hoses so that they're not coming into contact with any of the remaining stock hoses, or anything that is likely to get hacked through by rubbing against the steel braid.

Here's what it looked like:-

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Next I wanted to sort out the length of the line from the return on the rail to the FPR.

My FPR will be mounted off of the back of the inlet manifold (where it was mounted before the install) This meant that I had to re-fit the inlet manifold.

I sandlblasted the inlet manifold clean at work a while ago, and couldn't get into the guts of it to get the sand out. So I soaked it in petrol and sloshed it around and then using a sponge cleaned the inside of it out. I was quite pleased with the results:-

With all the ancillaries fitted (Note I've re-fitted the stock pressure sensor, but as this isn't being used in my set-up, it'll soon be junked!):-

Anyway, here's the inlet manifold pre-fitted:-

Note the clearance to the fuel rail:-

And here's the FPR fitted:-

[TLicense]

A work of art Tony. What make are the filter & rail?

 

Cheers.

The rail is powerhouse racing, and the filter is an Aeromotive with about £100 worth of Aeroquip fittings.

[TLicense]

Earlier I also tended to the turbo side.

These are the fittings that I've been waiting for 10 weeks for, along with the gaskets and other flanges:-

Notice the restriction:-

The thread on them were 3/8th's UNF. However the thread was absolutely shocking. So much so I thought they were something else. Not only me but a machinist with over 15 years of F1 experience, the guys at Mardi Gras motorsport at Silverstone (they thought it was some kind of Jap R series thread!) and the guys Trident motorsport at silverstone. In the end, one of the chaps at Earls got it right, and just used a bit of brute force and wound the 3/8th's fitting in :-

So anyway, after that runaround , here's the turbo inlet flange that the fit to:-

Next go's the gasket:-

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And then the fitting:-

Also note in this shot you can see the flanges that come off the back of the turbo. The downpipes will eventually be welded onto these. They're fixed on with 4 M8x20 long cap head bolts, as are all of the oil feeds:-

I then made up one end of the oil line hose and fitted that so I could judge for the length of the line. I was going to go for a 45degree on the other end, but it looks like a straight will fit better. Anyway here's the hose fitted and the Boost logic blanket too:-

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Just before I started to pack up for the night, I figured I'd take a look at the fuel pump ECU area, as I've got to start to think about mounting the twin relay's I've got for the pumps.

To get to the fuel pump ECU, you need to strip a bit of the rear interior.

First of all remove the rearmost panel. There are 5 (IIRC) screws hidden under little covers. Remove them with a flat bladed screwdriver or somesuch, and then remove the screws. The panel should come away, please forgive the state of the boot, but there's a lot going on in there at the moment!:-

Then you need to remove the LHS panel:-

To do this you first need to remove the strut brace cover. There's 3 (again IIRC) screws to undo this. Once that's removed, remove the screw holding the LHS panel. Before you completely yank this out of the car, you may want to undo the connector for the boot light :-

At this point I discovered why my fuel pump was running continuously when I keyed on. It's because JPS had done this to my wiring, I believe it's the 12V mod, but personally I would have preferred them not to have done it, as if I'd had an off, the fuel pump wouldn't have cut out and would have happily pumped petrol until the tank was empty. Cheers guys :-

That's about to where I got, today...

[TLicense]

Nice scotchlok Tony I know a few people who's cars pump runs continuously with the ignition on

 

Those turbos are a work of art, lots of caphead bolts

 

-Ian

 

It's sooo dangerous, it really riles me. I spent absolutely bloody ages trying to get the AEM to turn the pumps off as well, only to trace it back to this! Don't even get me started on the bloody skotchlok! I certainly never asked for it to be done, I think it might have been a band aid to help a poor idle.

Oh well at least now I know what it is and can take steps to sort it!

 

I must admit I'm pretty pleased with the turbo's myself. We pretty much only use CH bolts here at work in the aero dept. They pretty much only use NAS bolts on the car, but they're mucho expensivo.

 

I would say though that I'm a little suprised with quite a few of the gotcha's this kit offers. For example, quite a few of the studs for the exhaust manifold end up too close to the bottom of the exhaust runners and the nuts end up fouling either the runner, or foul the weld between the flange and the runner. For example:-

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. Any suggestions anyone?

 

Yes it does. And great thread mate!

 

Cheers mate, do you know which side of the compressor it goes? I'm guessing between the turbo and the IC right?

[Ian C]

I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. Any suggestions anyone?

 

 

To fit the BL manifold you angle grind the bottom studs themselves down by about 6mm (one of them a bit more). Still plenty of thread, just that funny end bit gets taken off. Not so sure about the weld though, maybe use 3/4 of a washer under the nut?

 

-Ian

[flyin_scouseman]

Yeah that ^^ either get shorter studs or remove them with stud extractor and chop 'em down. Washers can either be filed or ground on the narrow edge so that you take a quarter off the total diameter of the washer.... almost leaving you with a C shape washer.

[TLicense]

It just seems so rough to do that when the rest of the job is being done "right" though.

I'll see what can be done.....

[TLicense]

Did a bit more work over the weekend. Mainly to do with sorting the last of the fuel hosing out. If anyone is planning on making up their own hoses, don't underestimate how much of a pain it can be!

 

Here's how you go about making your hoses up...

 

First of all buy some hose and fittings. I got mine from http://www.thinkauto.com

They're not bad in terms of price and deliver most things next day. If it's not there next day, then it usually means it's not in stock so it'll be a long weight. However that said, it's only the more obscure items like large banko fittings and the like that they struggle on.

Anyway, so get some hose. Install the bits that you want the hose to connect to, and using the hose measure up how long you want it to be. Make sure you give yourself enough length so that you can wind it around items (you don't want it chaffing!) but then you don't want it really tight. Here, I'm checking the length of the hose from the rail to the FPR. I've got the FPR end of the hose already connected up.

Put some masking tape on the hose at the point you want to cut it. You NEED to do this, as you're going to have to hacksaw through the hose. If you don't have the tape (any heavy-ish duty tape will do I suppose) then the hose will fray, and you will never get the connector on:

 

Then grip the hose horizontally with half the tape sticking out the side of the jaws, and then hacksaw through the tape, and the hose. When you're sawing through, you may feel the blade kind of cathing on the hose. You don't want it to do this, as it's pulling the braid out rather than cutting through it. If there is a little bit of fraying once you've cut through, you can trim it back with some sharp snips. Your hose once cut should look like this:-

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Then get your connector. This is a swivelling 90 degree -6 JIC fitting. (The swivel bit means that once the hose is connected you can still rotate the fitting):-

 

It looks a bit gammy because it's been used before. These types of fittings are prefectly re-usable. Unscrew the hose fitting:-

 

 

And fit it over the end of the hose. The easiest way to do this is to place the hose vertically in a vice, with the jaws gripping the hose about an inch and a half below your cut. Then place the fitting on the end of the hose, and push down whilst rotating the fitting. With this particular fitting, I placed a 19mm socket over the top of it and using a t-bar pushed down on it using that. You need to push it ALL THE WAY DOWN, otherwise it will leak, and maybe pop off the hose when you pressurise it up. Here's the end fitting pushed on:-

Then mark the masking tape that's still sticking out right next to the fitting:-

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You then take the rest of the fitting and using a spanner to hold the part of the fitting you've just put on, screw in the remaining part. It should be pretty difficult to do:

As you're screwing it in, check that your pen mark doesn't move to far away from the first fitting. If it moves any further than this, then remove the second bit, push the first fitting back on, and start fitting the second bit again:-

Once you've done that, carefully using a knife, trim the tape back:-

 

Another type of fitting looks like this, it basically has three parts. The first fitting is the same as before, then there is the back bit that fits inside the hose, then the last bit screws into the first bit, but actually cuts into the rubber between the internal bore and the braded outer. This is how it seals:

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So as part of sorting the hoses out, I needed to remove the stock fuel hoses that run from the filter to the tank.

Now, be REALLY carefull here. Remember it is Petrol you're dealing with so take suitable precautions. (You don't want it in your eyes for example!) Don't say I didn't warn you....

 

So the first thing to do is to remove all the plastic trunking. It's held with a plethora of fixings. You'll need to undo them all

 

Once that's removed you'll be able to see the feed, return, breather and break lines:

 

The feed and return lines are obvious as they're the only ones not connected to anything "upstream" anymore.

 

(note quite sure why the pics have suddenly got smaller. Sorry....)

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Now go into the boot, roll back the carpet, and remove the board, and remove the spare wheel. You'll be confronted with this inspection cover:

Remove the 6 nuts and then remove the inspection cover:

Next remove the fuel pump and fuel level sender electrical connector:

Then remove the return hose:

Next remove the fuel tank breather hose:

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Next undo the banjo bolt from the feed hose. There's a copper crush washer on it:

 

With that done, remove the large jubilee clip holding the retaining ring from the hanger assembly:

 

Now remove the retaining ring. They're notoriously hard to undo. You'll probably have to resort to putting a screwdriver against one of the protrusions and hammering it round.

Once that's removed, you can carefully remove the hanger assembly:

Here's the stock pump:

The bits hanging off the assembly are the fuel level sender. Don't knock these otherwise it will read incorrectly.

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Here's what's inside your fuel tank, as well of fuel of course:

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Now that the hoses are removed from that end you can remove them from the car completely. They're a right pain as they go over the sub-frame and suspension. I ended up bending mine quite a bit to get the things out.

Then you can feed your new hoses through:

This is the hose fitting inbetween the tank and the tank shield. It's really a pain to fit it through here, but it will go: