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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

400bhp from a VVTi Tiptronic?


Guest Saxo Boy

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So with a 1.2 ring will the boost hit a maximum of 1.2 and no more

Yes by reducing the exhaust gas flow and hence max spin of the turbo blades.

 

Have you run yours in the cold without a ring Darren? Or just the summer. Only reason I ask is mine wouldn't go above 1.1 bar in the heat, but when it's cold will hit 1.2. (As you'd expect)

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Guest Saxo Boy

Soooooo, we're 90% sure a 1.2 ring is enough and there is no need for a boost controller. Any advances on that :D

 

Is there a diagram that shows the component parts of the exhaust sytem so I can understand how many bits need replaced to achieve a full decat, etc. I'd probably just look to replace the whole system from the turbo(s) back. Is one of the cats a pre-cat or are they both south of the blowers?

 

This has been a nightmare btw - most cars you can understand the basic issues with a night or reading but there are so many models and so many conflicting opinions with the Supra :eek:

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Have you run yours in the cold without a ring Darren? Or just the summer. Only reason I ask is mine wouldn't go above 1.1 bar in the heat, but when it's cold will hit 1.2. (As you'd expect)

 

Yes I've run it in Summer and Winter still no boost creep. Behaves just like a UK.

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Now that I'm awake and in the office, I can jump into Pete and Darrens ring discussion :D

 

When I first bought the car I had a 400quid Apexi boost controller fitted thinking this box of tricks would be the business. After it managed to loose it's settings a couple of times (long story) I got hacked off with it and replaced it with one of Chris Wilson's restrictor rings which limits boost to 1.2bar. I've had this in for a few years now and all is good. You need to keep an eye on things in winter, as it can rise to 1.3bar if it's a cold day. IMO a boost controller is not worth the time or money, just an expensive fancy box of tricks.

 

Darren - Like Pete I also need a ring. I did a test without one on a cool day and hit 1.4bar :eek:

 

I was one of the first people to modify a VVT-i and hit a few problems when it came to the FCD and the like. These problems are a thing of the past now, and I wouldn't be put off buying a VVT-i because it's different. Terry has one running a single, and very well from what I hear. I've also spoken to Chris on more than one occasion about a Motec, and the M800 can control the VVT-i.

 

IMO, BPU on a VVT-i should just mean a double decat, exhaust, restrictor ring, FCD, boost gauge and plugs with an SMIC in good condition. Water injection is a nice addition too. This is quite cheap and easy to do and will give a nice increase in power. After that you're looking at a single turbo for any gains worth the effort, and an aftemarket ECU. That's when things start getting expensive...

 

I've no idea how much power my car makes, and don't care. I have no faith in the accuracy in rolling road figures so don't bother with them. It goes as well as it can with the stock turbos, and that's good enough for me.

 

Give Chris Wilson a call on 07971952084, he'll put you straight on what you will/won't need.

 

By the way, you'll see off a M3 without any problems :)

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Same as a non vvti.

 

Boils down to performance vs reliability.

 

1000bhp for dyno queens and one drag pass?

 

380bhp for near stock longevity?

 

A sensible figure for an average enthusiast looking for semi long term reliability (with deep enough pockets to fund necessary servicing, maintenance and upkeep and potential to cope with a catastrophe) would probaly be 470-500 genuine bhp.

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North Shropshire, a long way to travel but worth it.

 

Absolutely, definitely, 100% true. The man Wilson knows his shit, and will give you a honest answer - even when it's one that you may not like. One of precisely 4 people who I trust to work on my car, and one of them's my Dad!

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