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What Oil to "Run In" with??


veilsideTT

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Hi all.

 

Wont be long before I put my engine back in now and im starting to think about oils.

 

Im not sure what oil to use for the first 1000mile run in period.

I have installed a brand new shortblock assembly. I was told that slightly thicker oil is better to run in with.

Is This true?

 

I can get my hands on Texaco Havoline Extra 10/40 or Castrol 10/40 for next to nothing (Ask me no questions me tell ya no lies)

 

But according to this page I should be using 20/50???

 

Anyone got any opinions on this I would be most grateful.

 

Thanks

Scott

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I think its more important to establish oil pressure in engine prior to its first start,than the grade of non synth oil, I just use a cheap 20 /50 and dump it after 20 mins running ,its usually quite black cos i use loads of cam lube,and rocol moly spray on engine build.

ive never had any probs, hth

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Cheers for the comments guys.

 

I kinda like the idea of dumping the oil after about 1/2 hr to get rid of all the crap that ive used to lube things up.

 

Because i can get the oils mentiond above for next to nothing then i may be tempted to use one of them. I cant see it hurting if i use 10/40 as apposed to 20/50

 

Would Semi Synth Oil be a problem as i think both the mentiond oils are semis?

 

Scott

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Terry - Yeh the link at the top is for the MKIV.COM TRD instructions. Would you reccomend this method of running in? Apart from re torque of the head bolts as there is no way of knowing the torque setting as the bolts are turned 180degress in two stages after you torque the bolts!

 

Darren - I knew it had something to do with the rings and the cylinder walls but was 100% sure. That sounds spot on to me!

 

Cheers all

Scott

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Originally posted by veilsideTT

Apart from re torque of the head bolts as there is no way of knowing the torque setting as the bolts are turned 180degress in two stages after you torque the bolts!

 

Cheers all

Scott

 

That's pretty common procedure for head bolts, torque setting + so many degrees.

 

Darren - sounds a good reason :thumbs: I vaguely recall reading something along those lines in the past.

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Yeh funny,

 

Ive heard a few storys of giving her a bit of welly to really seal the rings into the cylinders.

 

I dont think "ragging the arse off it" is quite how its supposed to be done though.

 

They say you should do a few hard pulls on the M-way. I personally dont like the idea of it but its supposed to give you good compression numbers due to a really good seal on the rings!

 

if you had spent a couple of G's on a new shortblock assy i dont think you would be redlining her for a while either!

 

Scott

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Torque and angle tightening is a good way of torque setting for rebuilds. Nothing wrong with that at all.

 

I've come across "ragging" for running in, but I think that's a last resort when you suspect that a normal run in won't do the job because one half of the equation has already been run in: i.e. new pistons in old bores, or vice-versa.

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All i was trying to say was that in the TRD instructions its tells you to re-torque the head blots after 30 mins of running.

 

Basically i ment that there would be no way of knowing what torque the bolts would be at after you have turned them 180 degrees. So how would you know what to torque them up to after 30 mins??

 

See what i was getting at?

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Originally posted by veilsideTT

All i was trying to say was that in the TRD instructions its tells you to re-torque the head blots after 30 mins of running.

 

Basically i ment that there would be no way of knowing what torque the bolts would be at after you have turned them 180 degrees. So how would you know what to torque them up to after 30 mins??

 

See what i was getting at?

 

I see...

 

We have digital wrenches that measure torque and angle, but can be flipped back and forth between the two, so you could set torque and angle in first tightening, record the torque, and then tighten it back up to that figure afterwards.

 

Anywhere you could hire one of those babies from?

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Supose i could keep adjusting my torque wrench up untill i doesnt click.

 

Then i would know what the torque is at now before i run her up!

 

Would you advise re torque after 30mins of running?

Most people ive spoken to think im crackers for even suggesting the idea!

 

Scott

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I have heard of it before, but it's not a mass-production type thing to do. Head bolts should really be set and left (hopefully for life!).

 

However, for a one off or a rebuild it doesn't sound too outlandish.

 

IIRC the Lotus Carlton engines had their head bolts re torqued after an initial run-in, but you're talking about a very few hand-built engines there, and I may be confoozed over it. T'was a long time ago now...

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