veilsideTT Posted March 17, 2004 Share Posted March 17, 2004 Hi all. Wont be long before I put my engine back in now and im starting to think about oils. Im not sure what oil to use for the first 1000mile run in period. I have installed a brand new shortblock assembly. I was told that slightly thicker oil is better to run in with. Is This true? I can get my hands on Texaco Havoline Extra 10/40 or Castrol 10/40 for next to nothing (Ask me no questions me tell ya no lies) But according to this page I should be using 20/50??? Anyone got any opinions on this I would be most grateful. Thanks Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharpie Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I just re-watched the Super2nr twins with their SOOP DAWG build and they to say to use a non synth oil for the first 1500 miles then you can switch to a Synth oil. They did not talk about what grade though. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJI Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 They said just to simply use everyday non-synthetic oil, a fairly thick oil to run in with. Then switch to thinner performance oil after the break in period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I think its more important to establish oil pressure in engine prior to its first start,than the grade of non synth oil, I just use a cheap 20 /50 and dump it after 20 mins running ,its usually quite black cos i use loads of cam lube,and rocol moly spray on engine build. ive never had any probs, hth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 Cheers for the comments guys. I kinda like the idea of dumping the oil after about 1/2 hr to get rid of all the crap that ive used to lube things up. Because i can get the oils mentiond above for next to nothing then i may be tempted to use one of them. I cant see it hurting if i use 10/40 as apposed to 20/50 Would Semi Synth Oil be a problem as i think both the mentiond oils are semis? Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDR Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 I've always read that it's best to run a rebuilt engine in with a thick mineral oil. Not entirely sure why though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Millers sell a specific running in oil. Demon Twats sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 Yes ive heard that thicker non synth is better but i dont know about semi synth oil?? Think i need to take a trip to "halfords":eek: and check out the 20/50 that they sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 Millers Oils! Now ive seen a sign on a motor shop place in leicester that sells that stuff. Cant remember where though. It should come to me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 According to the web site its 10/40 mineral oil for running in. Is it any good Terry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 It's fine. It only stays in for a while, the put some mineral based oil in. Have you had a look at the TRD Break in instructions on http://www.mkiv.com ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Mainly for piston rings / cylinder bores, isn't it? If the first fill oil is too good at its job they polish up rather than bedding in and later on they leak like a b@stard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 Terry - Yeh the link at the top is for the MKIV.COM TRD instructions. Would you reccomend this method of running in? Apart from re torque of the head bolts as there is no way of knowing the torque setting as the bolts are turned 180degress in two stages after you torque the bolts! Darren - I knew it had something to do with the rings and the cylinder walls but was 100% sure. That sounds spot on to me! Cheers all Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tDR Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 Originally posted by veilsideTT Apart from re torque of the head bolts as there is no way of knowing the torque setting as the bolts are turned 180degress in two stages after you torque the bolts! Cheers all Scott That's pretty common procedure for head bolts, torque setting + so many degrees. Darren - sounds a good reason I vaguely recall reading something along those lines in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted March 18, 2004 Share Posted March 18, 2004 how about ragging the arse off it IMMEDIATELY. No pussy footing, just go mental with it from 0 miles. It's meant to give a great seal for the piston rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 18, 2004 Author Share Posted March 18, 2004 Yeh funny, Ive heard a few storys of giving her a bit of welly to really seal the rings into the cylinders. I dont think "ragging the arse off it" is quite how its supposed to be done though. They say you should do a few hard pulls on the M-way. I personally dont like the idea of it but its supposed to give you good compression numbers due to a really good seal on the rings! if you had spent a couple of G's on a new shortblock assy i dont think you would be redlining her for a while either! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 nah, plus I've never had a car that new. The newest I ever had still had 200 or so delivery miles on it and you're meant to do it from 0 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 19, 2004 Share Posted March 19, 2004 Torque and angle tightening is a good way of torque setting for rebuilds. Nothing wrong with that at all. I've come across "ragging" for running in, but I think that's a last resort when you suspect that a normal run in won't do the job because one half of the equation has already been run in: i.e. new pistons in old bores, or vice-versa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 19, 2004 Author Share Posted March 19, 2004 All i was trying to say was that in the TRD instructions its tells you to re-torque the head blots after 30 mins of running. Basically i ment that there would be no way of knowing what torque the bolts would be at after you have turned them 180 degrees. So how would you know what to torque them up to after 30 mins?? See what i was getting at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 20, 2004 Share Posted March 20, 2004 Originally posted by veilsideTT All i was trying to say was that in the TRD instructions its tells you to re-torque the head blots after 30 mins of running. Basically i ment that there would be no way of knowing what torque the bolts would be at after you have turned them 180 degrees. So how would you know what to torque them up to after 30 mins?? See what i was getting at? I see... We have digital wrenches that measure torque and angle, but can be flipped back and forth between the two, so you could set torque and angle in first tightening, record the torque, and then tighten it back up to that figure afterwards. Anywhere you could hire one of those babies from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilsideTT Posted March 20, 2004 Author Share Posted March 20, 2004 Supose i could keep adjusting my torque wrench up untill i doesnt click. Then i would know what the torque is at now before i run her up! Would you advise re torque after 30mins of running? Most people ive spoken to think im crackers for even suggesting the idea! Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted March 20, 2004 Share Posted March 20, 2004 I have heard of it before, but it's not a mass-production type thing to do. Head bolts should really be set and left (hopefully for life!). However, for a one off or a rebuild it doesn't sound too outlandish. IIRC the Lotus Carlton engines had their head bolts re torqued after an initial run-in, but you're talking about a very few hand-built engines there, and I may be confoozed over it. T'was a long time ago now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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