RACELOGIC TC

[Phil Wall]

The goodies arrived this morning.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

 

Thanks Shop!

 

Having given the instructions a quick scan, it does not look too complicated.

Specific wiring included for Jap and Uk spec MKIV's

8 wired to connect to the ECU and 4 to the ABS unit.

The rest of the connections are to the unit itself.

The ECU connection for Jap and  Uk are identical, ABS different

 

I am going to get some double connectors to enable the connections to the ECU to be plug in rather than the solder/permanent connection as per instructions. Unless anyone can see a problem with this? ( Ash your thoughts).

 

Hope to make a start today the Field  connector will make things a little easier, and give use of the car while I mess about with the wiring.

 

But  I have promised my son that we will do the final stage of the induction system machining to get those elusive extra hp from his engine.

 

I also promised my wife that I would finish the decorations in the kitchen. WAPITA

 

 

 

[Paul Booth]

 

Grrrr! Where's mine then?

 

[Phil Wall]

Can't tell when it was posted as the frank is too badly smudged.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Paul Booth]

WHHOOOOOOOOOHHHAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaa! :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

 

It's just arrived! 15 minutes after I read your post. Postman couldn't find my house, he said.

 

Don't think this is "Technical" really.

 

 

(Edited by Paul Booth at 10:43 am on Aug. 11, 2001)

[Paul Booth]

Oh I dunno though.

 

"Run Procomm and enter.....";

RUN PROCOMM????? My God, what time warp have we entered?

 

[Paul Booth]

 

I just gotta find the time to knock up a Windows front end for this. This is painful.

 

[Guest Ash]

 

 

If you make the system pluggable then I'd advise you use a good quality latching plug and socket. Otherwise I see no problem in doing this.

 

Yours,

J

[Guest Martin F]

My opinion, for what it's worth. :biggrin:

 

Always prefer to solder connections where possible, but if using connectors NEVER use Scotchlok's.

 

As Ash says some sort of decent latching connector is advisable.

 

Have Fun!!!

 

 

[Phil Wall]

Just looked at the disc on the laptop.

 

Lots of lovely little screens full of stuff!!!

 

I wonder if it will fly!

 

Paul or anyone if you make a Windows front end let me know.

 

Just going to start to make the  connections to the ECU

[Phil Wall]

RACELOGIC install using Field connector loom.

 

I am taking notes of the install along with rough times.

 

I will post details and any particular difficulties and solutions, when the install is completed.

[Paul Booth]

Emptied the cardboard box, read the destructions, looks *very* straightforward (if we ignore the archaic software).

 

Been giving consideration to the position and mounting of the controls with friend (body-shop-man).

 

Stripped down control unit and decided it probably needs the front panel of the supplied pod slicing off and bonding on to the dashboard just to the left or right of the steering column to provide the printed information associated with each element.

The alternative would be to letraset the facia and mount the controls through the facia, either near the steering column of just to the right of the gear selector.

 

The 6 position rotary switch, which selects the appropriate step on the resistor ladder, has a rather ugly knob that fails to cover the switch fixing nut.

I've temporarily fixed that by adding a second nut behind the front panel which  pulls the switch back enough for the knob to cover the external nut. I also sliced a couple of mm of the switch spindle to ensure the knob seats fully.

 

I'm going to look for a solution which provides for switch position illumination, hopefully using some kind of backlighting but probably by finding a knob with a luminescent marker line and going with a luminous letraset/pen+stencil.

 

I gave consideration to replacing the supplied switch with a ganged rotary switch, one gang to drive the resistor ladder and the other to drive a 7 segment display, showing the selected position with a numerical value. Basically, while this option would be the best aesthetically, and for use during the hours of darkness, I can't be bothered.

 

Before I go to Maplin for an n-way snap connector, does anyone have a ready solution?

 

[Paul Booth]

Does anyone know if the supplied connector blanks and snap-off pins are intended to mate with any of the Supra connectors, or are they supplied for you to invent your own intercept connection?

 

I notice that the 2 identical connection pages (why two?) supplied with the unit, show the pin-outs for the ABS ECU *without* Toyota slip control. The pin-outs, for the wheel speed sensors, are different on those vehicles fitted with Toyota's slip control, apparently.

 

Interestingly, although RaceLogic show the colours of the wires to connect to on the ABS ECU, I haven't seen where they tell you what they are.

For diagnostic purposes:

White  - front left speed sensor

Red     - front right speed sensor

Blue    - rear right speed sensor

Purple - rear left sensor

 

On those cars fitted with slip control, it's my understanding that the corresponding pinouts on the ABS ECU are:

A20-5   White

A20-17 Red

A21-2   Blue

A21-9   Purple

 

How, if at all, would the launch control work with an auto?

 

[Phil Wall]

 

The connectors supplied are to enable you to cut the wires to the ECU and rejoin with one set of plugs. .

The other two are for connection to the RLTC wires. When fitted to the other two plugs you have added to the ECU loom, the RLTC enters the circuit.

 

The two pages I received were not identical, one for Jap and one for  Uk Spec, slight differences in location of ABS wires for speed pick up.

 

I thought the only Supras MKIV’s  with out TRAC were NA's

 

 

Can any one confirm what Paul has said bout the ABS  wires as I am going to cut into the ABs loom on Sunday  morning. I am now confused.

 

I have decided on a temporary location for the control unit until I can sort out illumination and better controls.

 

 

[Guest Ash]

Phil..............

 

If you get stuck then by all means give me a call. But from what you were saying yesterday, when we spoke, you seem to have it all in hand.

 

As regards the fitting, I'm sorry I cannot help anyone at present as I've not actually fitted mine yet. I'm about to fit one to JF's car but have been holding back and getting on with other things whilst mulling over the control-box mounting situation. What I'll probably do is, like Phil, stick the control box in some temp. location until some idea comes to mind.  

 

As for the workings of the launch-control, the holding of the revs feature cannot be used as the torque convertor obviously holds the revs. But the slip characteristics of the RLTC are different under launch. Which is a feature that would apply to both auto and manual.

 

Well, an auto that has been tweaked, as it *is* possible to spin the wheels from a standing start.

 

Sometimes, with mine, I'd suddenly get involved in a little traffic-light action and forget to switch the traction-control off. As I held the brake and floored the throttle, the rears would turn slightly independent of the fronts. The trac. would sense this and cut the power... just as the lights would be switching to green.

 

But there was also difficulty when the trac was off.

 

With an auto, you don't have the same degree of instant feel when it comes to gauging the amount of torque you are feeding into the rear. Many times I'd set off with a little slip and end up with a *lot* of slip going nowhere. Or the opposite would occur. So I'm hoping the launch control will be able to obviate the need for all the fannying about when getting off the line quickly.

 

Paul and Phil, I'll be *very* interested in your before and after experiences.

 

Yours,

J    

[Phil Wall]

Quote: from Paul Booth on 1:10 am on Aug. 12, 2001[br]

 

Interestingly, although RaceLogic show the colours of the wires to connect to on the ABS ECU, I haven't seen where they tell you what they are.

For diagnostic purposes:

White  - front left speed sensor

Red     - front right speed sensor

Blue    - rear right speed sensor

Purple - rear left sensor

 

On those cars fitted with slip control, it's my understanding that the corresponding pinouts on the ABS ECU are:

A20-5   White

A20-17 Red

A21-2   Blue

A21-9   Purple

 

 

As far as I am aware the unit will self calibrate and learn which wheel sensor is connected to each of the RL wires.

 

Once set you should be able to forget it.

 

Make a note of the colour connections, for future reference.

 

 

(Edited by Phil Wall at 9:17 am on Aug. 12, 2001)

[Phil Wall]

Quote: from Ash on 8:33 am on Aug. 12, 2001[br]

Paul and Phil, I'll be *very* interested in your before and after experiences.

 

 

I have kept the lap top in the garage and have  typed in notes as I have been proceeding.  Once edited I will post, in the hope that my ramblings may be of use to others in the future.

 

As regards to before and after, I was going to use the lap top monitiring to see if I can deduce the % slip at which the stock unit comes into action, before disconnecting the system for good.  This data should be interesting. I have a feeling the figures may well be quite alarming.

 

After that the stock TC goes in the box of spares.

 

Back to the garage:biggrin:

 

 

 

 

(Edited by Phil Wall at 9:16 am on Aug. 12, 2001)

[Doughie]

 

I think that the stock TC comes in at 0.1% slip !

 

Seriously, any slip at all and it cuts in.   Just going over a cat's-eye i've had it cut in. (UK-spec)

[Paul Booth]

Phil,

 

I'm going to wait until you complete before I start mine, for two reasons:

 

1. I want to see if there are any gotchas which leap and and bite you in the ar$e.

 

2. I don't want to complicate the debugging of my 120 limit problem by still more changes in the wiring loom. On that front, I managed to touch 130 yesterday but it took a veeeeery long straight.

 

If Steve at JIC gets me the data he promised, I should be fixing that next week-end and that puts me installing the TC the week-end after that.

 

[Phil Wall]

The hard work is done RACELOGIC traction Control; is in the car and working like a dream.:biggrin:

 

System fitted and tested in a weekend.

 

Total time taken was about 6 hours, including rewiring the 12v supply as the wire I chose  went to ground on cranking, so the car would not start.

 

Sorted  it after a few puzzled moments though.

 

There were a few more hours spent pratting about doing other things on the car as well.

 

At 5.00 this afternoon the roads were very wet, after the initial wheel speed sensor check and system calibration,  I decided not to push the car into corners just yet. Set the unit to wet and floored it on and empty straight.

 

Very impressive the back felt a little light but I was able to control the back with the steering wheel. The car pulled like a train just requiring a little correction  tot keep all the wheels straight. Eased off just this side of 100.

 

For comparison I turned round to do another run on the same stretch of road with the RLTC switched off. Started from a standing start, the same the last run, foot flat on the floor, as the second turbo kicked in the rear wheels let go and the rev counter went up to 6500 rpm the back just would not grip the wheels just lit up. The back end started to drift and squirm about and could not get it to go where I wanted. Just knew it would end in tears if I kept my foot planted.  Soon lost control of it so had let off.

 

I am totally convinced by the unit, the best buy so far. With the unit switched on the car was totally controllable in adverse conditions.

 

In normal circumstances most of us would be unlikely to keep our foot planted to the floor on a wet road. From the start to the end of the run car was fully controllable, the back felt just a little light.

 

Quite a unique experience, full throttle all the way to 100 on a very wet road.

 

I have had a number of nasty moments in the wet, I wish I had this fitted then. It certainly would have given plenty of warning if not preventing the situations altogether.

 

Next step is to get an adapter to fit to the lap top to monitor what is happening and later see if the unit can be further fine tuned to the car.

 

If you have not ordered your system, I would thoroughly recommend it.

 

If I can fit it anyone can.

 

 

(Edited by Phil Wall at 12:27 am on Aug. 13, 2001)

[Paul Booth]

So no 'warning notes' or 'be careful of' then?

 

Did you use the blank plugs, as supplied?

 

[Phil Wall]

Paul I used the kit as supplied and followed all but one set of instructions to my cost.

 

I have made notes and will make available to anyone who would like them. Don't think I will post here as it would be a very big post.

 

I used the Field loom connector so all the major connections (32 pins to connect), I did sitting at a work bench and not in the foot well. You only have 12 or so cm of ECU loom to play with in a confined space at the end of the passenger foot well.  Unless you have professional equipment it is going to be a PITA.

 

ABS connections are worse as you only have 5 cm in some instances. I made 15 cm extensions for the 4 connections there, just to make it a bit easier. The main problem was keeping the other wires shielded from the iron whilst soldering. It was like try to make and Airfix kit with out taking it out of the box :biggrin:

 

All joints soldered not one clip connector in sight (Martin)

 

Check carefully for non-grounding 12v supply at crank over. (My mistake DOH:confused:) Most 12v lines go to ground when you crank.

 

I would be interested to know if the RL recommend connection is live at crank over. If you find out let me know, as I may rewire to that point just to keep it tidy. I did not use the suggested connection due to the gauge of the RLTC 12v  supply wire, hence my discussion with Ash.

 

I need to know what connector I need for the Lap top as the unit will not plug in. Real shame my son and I we up for logging some runs just to see how the unit performed on various settings. Also wanted to check that the wheel circumference settings supplied by RL were same as my car.

 

Any advice from anyone would be much appreciated:o .

 

However the set-up and calibration was easy using the set-up connector and flashing green light. I am leaving this connection permanently and will hide the lamp and connector block under the carpet for easy access.

 

The wet road test was most impressive the difference was totally amazing, I just can’t believe how different the two runs were on the same section of wet road.   I just have to remember the system will not defy the laws of motion and will not make you stop any quicker.

 

I think the main benefit at the moment is peace of mind. The system will control the slip, you will get seat of the pants feel that things are going on and have time to react to a situation if you want to.  In the same situation with no TC or the stock system, you will get no warning and will just be fighting to keep the car on the road. As I have has to do several times, not because I was pushing it too hard, just because I just got caught out. We have all read posts from members who were not able to get out of these situations unscathed.

 

Good luck with your fitting Paul. If you would like to discuss the fitting in more detail or want any help over the phone I would be only too pleased to be of assistance. E-mail me for phone nos.

 

[Paul Booth]

Thanks Phil, I *will* be in touch, later, and I *would* appreciate your documentation (email as per info).

 

I think I need a field loom connector, *SHOP!!!*

Does it work for the EMU and the ABS ECU?

 

I too want the TC for wet weather handling. I've had too many exciting *events* in the wet for my liking.

 

 

[Phil Wall]

Quote: from Paul Booth on 10:59 am on Aug. 13, 2001[br]

I think I need a field loom connector, *SHOP!!!*

Does it work for the EMU and the ABS ECU?

 

 

No unfortunately you are on your own making connections to the ABS loom.

 

 

 

(Edited by Phil Wall at 11:03 am on Aug. 13, 2001)

[Phil Wall]

Today I put the stock TC fuses back in and did a few runs with both stock and  Racelogic TC switched on.

 

Got the very briefest of green TC lettering flash up when pushing it in a corner with RLTC set at 10%.

The loss of grip was virtually imperceptible at the wheel and through the seat.

 

I will pick up USB /RS232 connector in the morning, so that I can connect up the laptop and check all the system settings.

 

[Guest Supragirl]

 

 

Justin wrote:-

 

Whilst im at it , this is quite important.

 

EVERYONE who runs the racelogic traction control

really MUST fully disable the stock traction control.

 

A lot of people seem to leave the stock TC in place,

it doesn't really cause a problem at all, but occasionally

it still cuts in !!!!!

 

Not only that, but if you see the restriction the stock TC butterfly

valve causes to the airflow then you would DEFINITELY want it removed.

Removing this restriction surely MUST give a worthwhile BHP gain.

 

HKS sell a traction control removal kit, its £69.95+vat and this

completely removes the stock TC.

 

This would still be a good idea even if you dont have RL TC,

the stock TC is utter utter BOLL*X !

 

 

I have 5 of these kits sitting in front of me as we speak,

1 is going on my car today, the other 4 are for sale,

please contact me off-list.

 

Can someone mention this to mkivsupra.net please?

 

Justin