Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I'm having some problems trying to start my Supra after my rebuild (I am using the Emanage Ultimate for my controller). Originally I was having problems with no fuel getting past the injectors, that was solved by swapping out the resistor pack & EMU, the car then started OK. A few days later I changed the jumper setting for the RPM signal on the EMU and the car wouldn't start I reset to original setting but still no good!! I checked over a few things and found I had NO spark. I checked and swapped out the following from a running car, Igniter, plugs, Coilpacks, Stock ECU, Crank sensor and also checked timing and timing gear. The car still failed to start, I then bypassed the igniter wires on EMU and the car started after several attempts, I then tryed the following day and it wouldn't start again due to no spark. Today I removed the EMU and RLTC wiring harness and reverted back to original ECU and tryed to start the car but it wouldn't I am now runing out of ideas as to what it could be I have code 47 & 78, 78 because I occasionally pull the fuel pump connector. I would appreciate any help if anybody has experienced or come across this problem before, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 11, 2006 Share Posted August 11, 2006 I was thinking about this today Ibrar RLTC. Was this in the car when it last started?? Can you take it out?? Possible this is causing problems. You've checked Cam and crank sensors?? I know it's silly but have you double and triple checked ALL fuses?? So your getting NO pulse from the coil packs at all?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 RLTC was in when it started and has now been removed, so everything is back to stock. Checked all fuses crank and cam sensors also checked all earth connections, running out of ideas now:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 wild stab in the dark...alarm immobiliser? Its not a clifford is it? JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 Only had the standard alarm which I have bypassed, the weird thing is it started on several occasions, I have checked & double checked all wiring connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 do you have a fields harness in there? JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 What was wrong with the original resistor pack? Why was it replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 In order:- 1. Is ECU light on with Ign II? - 2. Is spark getting to Plug tip? - 3. Is +v Getting to Injector tail? - 4. Is Fuel system Pressurised? - > 5. IS Crank sensor / Cam Sensor giving voltage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 do you have a fields harness in there? JB Fields harness is going in tommorow, thanks Martin. But for now it's all back to original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 In order:- 1. Is ECU light on with Ign II? - 2. Is spark getting to Plug tip? - 3. Is +v Getting to Injector tail? - 4. Is Fuel system Pressurised? - > 5. IS Crank sensor / Cam Sensor giving voltage? 1. I persume your talking about the EMU ECU? yes it lit up with IGN II. 2. No spark at plug tip, tested many times. 3. Yes, I have no problem with the fuel side of things. 4. Yes, as above. 5. Swapped Crank sensor with spare ~1300 Ohms, Cam sensors ~ 950 to 1000 Ohms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredm Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 As you have replaced the Crank Sensor with another one I doubt this is the problem, however you should just check to make sure it's working properly. Apart from the resistance check that you have already done you should make sure that you have got at least 0.5 v ac output on cranking. Disconnect the crank sensor multiplug and measure across the two terminals with a voltmeter set on ac volts, crank the engine and you should see a rising ac voltage reaching at least 0.5 v preferably higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Where are you checking the crank and cam angle sensors, at the ECU? are the coil packs testing at the right resistance? and are they actually getting a voltage and a switching signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 As you have replaced the Crank Sensor with another one I doubt this is the problem, however you should just check to make sure it's working properly. Apart from the resistance check that you have already done you should make sure that you have got at least 0.5 v ac output on cranking. Disconnect the crank sensor multiplug and measure across the two terminals with a voltmeter set on ac volts, crank the engine and you should see a rising ac voltage reaching at least 0.5 v preferably higher. OK, thanks Fred will check that. Has anybody else got other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 as said before crank over engine, if your rpm needle is jumping while cranking then your crank sensor and feed are fine:) 1 check feed at ecu pin 1 for ignition feed 2 check main efi relays for feed 3 as you have had your engine out make sure that the connecter plugs are pushed all the way home and locked ( orange plug+ grey ) from the main engine loom. if not locked in place it will cause a intermitent fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 Where are you checking the crank and cam angle sensors, at the ECU? are the coil packs testing at the right resistance? and are they actually getting a voltage and a switching signal? Checked sensors at the plugs and not the ECU, the coils are OK and getting 12V but no signal when cranking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 as said before crank over engine, if your rpm needle is jumping while cranking then your crank sensor and feed are fine:) 1 check feed at ecu pin 1 for ignition feed 2 check main efi relays for feed 3 as you have had your engine out make sure that the connecter plugs are pushed all the way home and locked ( orange plug+ grey ) from the main engine loom. if not locked in place it will cause a intermitent fault. abs, Yes done this test and RPM needle jumps when cranking. 1. Checked, I have 12V's 2. checked relays & feed OK 3. All checked about 10 times I am at the stage of smashing my car with a sledge hammer:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Mate don't give up. I sat in the same position for like 2/3 months and was about to strip the car to sell but Abs camee along and saved the day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 IF you get in big trouble, we can pick the car up for you and get this fixe din no time at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Right if your fuelling and sensor circuits are all working fine then try the following. 1 black/orange wire to coil packs 12volts ign on and cranking 2 ecu feed to igniter pin 58 (red/yellow wire) 12 volts ign and cranking 3 check ecu grounds on pins 4,69 (pin 79,80 ?) 4 check negative igniter output when cranking pins 52,53,54,55,56 and 57 at ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibrar Jabbar Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 Right if your fuelling and sensor circuits are all working fine then try the following. 1 black/orange wire to coil packs 12volts ign on and cranking 2 ecu feed to igniter pin 58 (red/yellow wire) 12 volts ign and cranking 3 check ecu grounds on pins 4,69 (pin 79,80 ?) 4 check negative igniter output when cranking pins 52,53,54,55,56 and 57 at ecu I have checked everything above 1. OK 2. IGN feedback Pin 58 is 5v, I have checked on 2 other Supras today and they both have 5V. 3. OK 4. Not sure on correct way of testing apart from using a scope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 i'll check my readings to compare. the igniter outputs i alway check using a scope but i,m sure if you have a digital probe tester (led type) it will flash rapidly if there is a signal there. also you could try and plug a timing gun to the green igniter wire, the gun should flash while cranking if there is a signal ouput to the coils. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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