Guest huwt4ng Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 ok. i want some made by a respectable manufacturer like Eurolite or someone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 so not Toyota then ? In which case I don't know - I suggest you start a new thread to see if anyone knows of any aftermarket lights. I don't know of any myself but maybe there are some. We've hijacked Mike's thread enough now I think Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Nope, same brightness as the brake lights is fine. I don't think I've done it right...? even with the fog switch on I still have four brake lights working normally...? it can't be right.... The only possible f*ck up I could have made is... on the diagram, where the switch comes in am, I right in thinking of the two wires from the caravan light one goes to one relay and the other goes to the other...? or should they be together connecting into two separate wires, one from each relay..? Does that make sense...?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 I need to do this conversion as well but i think i will wait til someone offers to do it for me lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 The two wires from the caravan light, one should be the switched live, the other should be earth. The switched live should split and go to both relays (85 and 86 at the top), the other should be wire (ground) is the one which splits and connects to the two relays (86 and 85 at the bottom) labelled gnd on the diagram. Does that make sense? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 The two wires from the caravan light, one should be the switched live, the other should be earth. The switched live should split and go to both relays (85 and 86 at the top), the other should be wire (ground) is the one which splits and connects to the two relays (86 and 85 at the bottom) labelled gnd on the diagram. Does that make sense? Mike So glad your help mate... mucho appreciated! arrrrh... OK, which one is live..? One is black and one is read.... or does it matter which? or should I trial and error? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 So glad your help mate... mucho appreciated! arrrrh... OK, which one is live..? One is black and one is read.... or does it matter which? or should I trial and error? OK, tried each one separately, and then both together and neither method works.... Tightened every connection.. and checked the wiring diagram countless times.. Now the 'bulb out' light seems to be appearing after I've taken off the handbrake and pressed the brakes for a couple of seconds.... Is this method tested for facelift rears..? is there a difference? should I have asked that question last week....?! Raining now and kinda frustrated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 OK, tried each one separately, and then both together and neither method works.... Tightened every connection.. and checked the wiring diagram countless times.. Now the 'bulb out' light seems to be appearing after I've taken off the handbrake and pressed the brakes for a couple of seconds.... Is this method tested for facelift rears..? is there a difference? should I have asked that question last week....?! Raining now and kinda frustrated... Sorry Mike, I missed your first response. I would imagine the red is the "switched live" and the black is the ground, If they have gone to the effort of using black and red wire I can't see why they would have gone against convention. If you need to be certain then connect a voltmeter between each wire and the chassis earth, the switched live (when on) should show 12v, and the earth/ground should show 0v This method works perfectly for facelifts (That's what I have) I'll try and get some close up pictures for you, but it is raining here too. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 Cheers buddy... that's the way I have it set it now... but I think I've blown a fuse in the dash (no lights on the speedo etc. when the headlights go on) after putting the two together... what a dumb ass I am! I'll find and replace the fuse (which I really hope it is!) and try again... Thanks again mate.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Cheers buddy... that's the way I have it set it now... but I think I've blown a fuse in the dash (no lights on the speedo etc. when the headlights go on) after putting the two together... what a dumb ass I am! I'll find and replace the fuse (which I really hope it is!) and try again... Thanks again mate.. It sounds like a fuse type situation I'm seriously thinking about taking mine to bits, (I had the foresight to use blade connectors everywhere) and doing a write up for the technical section. If you're still having problems after you've replaced the fuse, drop me a PM and I'll try and get some detailed shots just for you Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 It sounds like a fuse type situation I'm seriously thinking about taking mine to bits, (I had the foresight to use blade connectors everywhere) and doing a write up for the technical section. If you're still having problems after you've replaced the fuse, drop me a PM and I'll try and get some detailed shots just for you Mike That's great mate thanks... now, erm where's that fuse box... This is auto-electronics baptism by fire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 16, 2006 Author Share Posted August 16, 2006 Further update... I've done this from here; Secondly, there are 2 greens and 2 green\whites coming out of each light cluster, 1 of each of these goes to each of the brake lights and they are joined into 1 not long after they appear in the car through the rubber boot. I firstly joined the single 1 into the fog light conversion circuit. I then had 4 fogs and no brakes. dumb ass So just to clarify, pick 1 of each of the 2 colours coming from the cluster and join that to the circuit. When I select one of the greens and one of the green/whites.. what do I do with the other one..? just leave it unconnected? I think I've made every possible error on this... expect a full write up once I get it sorted! Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Mike, Sorry once again this thread passed me by *subscribed* If I understand you, you've tapped into the green and green and white before they disappear out of the boot through the bulkhead - is that correct? In the meantime I'm off to draw a diagram Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 no worries mate! When I peeled back the tape on the cluster there was two green wires soldered one green wire... I just snipped the 'one' wire (after the two had merged)... and the same with the green/white... does that make sense? but now I have four fog lights! The post from Monkey3 is the same problem, and he's saying just pick one of the greens - green/whites, but what should I do with the other one? just leave it unconnected...? Was yours like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 I just snipped the 'one' wire (after the two had merged)... and the same with the green/white... does that make sense? but now I have four fog lights! yup that's exactly what you shouldn't have done what you needed to do was trace the wires from the solder junction to the bulbs, select which one you want as the fogs, and snip only that bulb's wires, leaving the rest of the wires intact. then the other bulb will work as a brake light all the time, and the relays will tell the fog bulb whether to work as a brake or a fog. I have a diagram here - I hope this helps I suspect the reason your bulb fail light is illuminating, is either because your connection to the resistors is loose, or (imho more likely) the resistance isn't high enough to pretend to be four bulbs - when you get back to only two 'failed' brake lights I think it will just work nicely. One other gotcha is that the wiring is slightly different between the left and the right cluster, subtle but be careful to watch out for this. Unfortunately the wiring in the cluster loom is the only bit I can't get to easily as it's all insulation taped up. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 17, 2006 Author Share Posted August 17, 2006 Bloody hell Mike! nice diagram... is this a sneak peek on your official step by step guide? OK, so I cut the wires on the one I want as the fog light? and leave those wire unconnected to anything... God I'm such an idiot, I feel like one of those really skeptical guys on an infomercial... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 Bloody hell Mike! nice diagram... is this a sneak peek on your official step by step guide? OK, so I cut the wires on the one I want as the fog light? and leave those wire unconnected to anything... God I'm such an idiot, I feel like one of those really skeptical guys on an infomercial... I feel another diagram coming on ... This is where the differences exist between left and right clusters. on one cluster you cut the wires then you need to reconnect some of your new wiring to each side of the cut. On the other cluster you only reconnect your new wiring to the bulb side leaving the bulkhead side unconnected (but insulated) I'll be back with a picture to illustrate this soon. Don't worry about the questions, it is a little confusing from the TRL diagram (plus I'm now feeling guilty for pushing you to do it yourself ) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 17, 2006 Share Posted August 17, 2006 right - I'm not sure whether this is any better, but at least it shows what happens to the other wires, and shows what connections need to go where. Most of the new wiring is within the lighter area (with the exception of the gnd connection in the top left) There is nothing to say you have to use the inner brake lights as the fogs, if you want to use the outers, just make all your cuts and splices to the other pairs of wires. I would however recommend that you don't do one of each. Mike p.s. Original Copyright acknowledged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 18, 2006 Author Share Posted August 18, 2006 That's a lot clearer! The original diagram doesn't tell the full story... OK, I'll go and do some more splicing and report back.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 20, 2006 Author Share Posted August 20, 2006 Update! All done... works a treat... Can't thank you enough Mike... excellent diagram that last one... I think that needs to be the 'definitive' diagram... no disrespect to Mr Betts excellent system! The only thing I would say to peeps doing this is the diagram above is 'in an ideal world'.. I tried to pull out the bulk head rubber, but even then I would struggle to see which green (green/white) goes to each light.. I picked one of each and tested, keeping the option to swap around if I picked the wrong light... Cheers again Mike, I owe you a few pints next time we meet...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 20, 2006 Share Posted August 20, 2006 Nice one Mike. I'm glad you got it sorted in the end. Hopefully you've now got a great sense of self satisfaction that you've achieved it yourself. Thanks for your kind words about my diagrams. If they helped you they have done their job. If they help anyone else then that's a bonus. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey3 Posted August 23, 2006 Share Posted August 23, 2006 Sorry I missed this and well done Mike. I had the same issue when I first tried it. Mike, your diagram would have saved me a lot of screaming Russell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted August 24, 2006 Author Share Posted August 24, 2006 Welcome back Russell, thought you'd vanished for a minute there.. Well, to carry on the saga.. I *thought* I'd done it but it seems on closer inspection all works as it should but, the inner two lights (the new fogs) don't work as brake lights... ever! ..and the bulb fail light remains on... arrrrggghhhhh! I'm going to open it all out on Saturday and see whats going on... Do you think I've got a green or a green/white mixed up at each side or something..? where one goes into the loom and one goes into the relay..? I'm thinking it must be something there...? Pleased to hear you were screaming Russ.... Mr Pix is cool as a cucumber with this lot! he's making me feel like a spaz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 24, 2006 Share Posted August 24, 2006 Sounds like it might well be a reversed wire. Should be a simple fix I hope Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pixelfill Posted August 27, 2006 Share Posted August 27, 2006 So Mike, How did you do? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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