GeordieSteve Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 What work needs done to the block to accept higher HP? I know around 500rwhp should be ok (to an extent) on the stock block, but what are the recommended engine upgrades for 600rwhp, 700rwhp etc.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Anything that avoids detonation. The block/head can take silly amounts of power otherwise. This is the case with many other blocks, by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 The block being cast iron can pretty much handle anything...as long as the engine doesn't detonate. I *believe* there is some scope to improve the flow of the water and oil ways to aid the lubrication and cooling systems but other than that it's really down to your choice of moving parts as to what will help it sustain HIGH HP levels. If you're gutting an old engine to rebuild it's probably best to get it acid bathed and visially check the oil/coolant passages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeordieSteve Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 So at what point in time would things like pistons, rods, head gaskets etc. come into play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 If you get serious detonation, any piston/rod/gasket will fail, irrespective of cost, bling, hype or how 'uprated' it is. The trick is not trying to build a 'bulletproof' engine that will sustain damage, but avoid it starting in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeordieSteve Posted July 31, 2006 Author Share Posted July 31, 2006 Fantastic point. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 My 0.02p.... I've seen damaged/bent/failed Stock, Eagle and Crower rods from severe det in a 2JZ but never seen a Pauter rod damaged. They seem to be bullet proof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Next to detonation, rods are usually damaged by severe over-revving. The combustion forces from the pistons are trivial compared to the decelleration forces at TDC and BDC. The beauty about turbos is that they allow huge power gains *without* having to increase the rev limit (it may still help with an extreme setup, but it is not compulsory) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Carillo H-Beam rods are the *best* for strength and weight. The Pauter X-beams are a bit heavy IMO. Piston wise, well it's hard to say what is better - I'd just gof or the lightest and remove the stress off the crank/rods. GReddy and HKS use the Carillo Rods AFAIK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 If I was building my spare short block up to use I'd be using Pauter rods and CP Pistons with a stock based crank, stock main caps and new stock main bolts. If you were aiming for a steady 550-600bhp and say 1.4bar max you would probably be ok with stock pistons if trying to stick to a tight budget (upgraded rods and bolts though) but will suffer more blowby from piston distortion than with something like a CP piston (which are not expensive anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Any decent forged or billet rod should be fine, as it's a long stroke engiine and you are unlikely to want to rev beyond 7500. Steel crank, forged or billet rods, JUN pistons, JUN cams and a decent head job should be all you need. Stock gaskets should be fine, the only bolts that need changing might be the head bolts. Crank girdle bolts are very unstressed and buying "fancy" ones is, IMO, a waste of money. The rods will come with decent bolts in them already. Get a decent bore and hone job done check bearings for alignment, decent full balance and a LOT of time and money mapping should be the basics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 What girdle would that be then on a 2jz ? or are you talking about the RB girdle ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 I'm thinking Nissan and typing in a Toyota thread. I mean main cap fasteners. They are lightly loaded for their size, so stock are fine, IMO. Same even more so for an RB engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Any decent forged or billet rod should be fine, as it's a long stroke engiine and you are unlikely to want to rev beyond 7500. With a square bore and stroke of 86mm x 86mm you can hardly call it not long stroke, and as i have said before, it seems daft that it won't rev, unless the std dynamic balancing leaves a lot to be desired, the rest is in place, twin cams and solid lifters etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Square or not, in my book an 86 mm stroke is a LOONG stroke... At about 71 mm stroke and 86 mm bore the RB25 Skyline engine is a sweet unit, at 73.7 stroke and 86 mm bore the 2.6 litre RB26 is still nice, but the RB30 with 86 x 86 bore and stroke is a dog of a thing. The fact the Supra is as sweet as it is at 86 square is a testament to Toyota engineering, but to me it's long stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt k Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 What work needs done to the block to accept higher HP? I know around 500rwhp should be ok (to an extent) on the stock block, but what are the recommended engine upgrades for 600rwhp, 700rwhp etc.? Don't know about the block but with 700Rwhp stain proof seats might be an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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