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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

CAMBELT TENSIONER help?


Rob

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I've jsut removed and measured it's extrusion from the casing at 9.3mm.

Marksupra's guide said 8 - 8.8 mm.

 

There's no trace of oil leaks, should I replace it?

It means stopping all work and not re-assembling the car till next weekend now, but how important is this measurement?

 

A quick answer will be much appreciated, as i'm right in the middle of it now.

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Not sure TBH Rob

 

But if you do put it back on (the correct compressed way) you can remove and refit a new one say next weekend without removing anything substantial.

 

so you could test fit it anyway, make sure the cambelt is on correctly and re-assemble everything regardless of whether you decide to actually reuse the tensioner or wait to get a new one.

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Good point.

 

I haven't got any fecking thread-lok now FFS.

I've already spent 2 hours driving to Darlington and back cos no bugger in Northallerton stocks a 22mm 1/2inch drive socket.

 

Can I just use Loc-tite?

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i was in the same boat as you mate when i did my timing belt the tensioner was on the limit of the tolerances in the manual so i put it back on but after about 2 weeks of sleepless nights worrying about the litle fecker i thought off to toyota and it was about £40 for a new one, a bargain and i could sleep again lol

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I haven't got any fecking thread-lok now FFS.

I've already spent 2 hours driving to Darlington and back cos no bugger in Northallerton stocks a 22mm 1/2inch drive socket.

 

Can I just use Loc-tite?

 

A 7/8ths socket will work at a pinch.

What's the thread lock for? I don't use it on crank pulleys, never had a problem yet.

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Loc-tite was for the cambelt tensioner pulley bolt, a 10mm hex one.

 

 

I've just realised what the problem with the socket was...when I read Marksupras notes I thought he said 3/8" drive, but he actually said 3/4" drive.

Oops, so for the record you can crack the nut off with a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar and a four foot tube over it.

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