Lucifer Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 And on teh back of that, if anyone has any specific questions regarding our findings, thoughts or work on JOhn's engine please ask away publicly here. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockys96 Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 jesus, that looks like hell. yeh, would be good to know what oil was used, if any Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 The oil that John was using has NO bearing on the state of this engine. This was done in the early part of its life through poor maintenance and thrashing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockys96 Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 goes to inspect engine.......... is there any tell tell signs, or would it just hit you full on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupra Posted July 31, 2006 Share Posted July 31, 2006 Thats scary shit, i'm gonna have a look in mine tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Usually peeking through the oil filler cap is enought to tell you if there are such horrors hiding (if the seller has taken care to wipe clean the cap) Scary indeed.... Martin, what was the oil pickup mesh like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 As Jofn Says, the only true way to get the clear picture is to pop off teh cam cover. Not a big job at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hob Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 As Jofn Says, the only true way to get the clear picture is to pop off teh cam cover. Not a big job at all. do you need a torque wrench to put the cover back on? and should you do it in a dust free enviroment rather than on your drive? these bit have allways made me weary of removing the cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Technically yes, but you can do it buy eye with watching how much you are 'squashing' the gasket. make sure both mating surfaces are clean. Jus tdon;t do it on a windy day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markie Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Hey boyo.. Did you say you used an engine flush? Does that not remove all the nasties and cause more problems than they solve. That could of been something which sent it over the edge.. Sorry to hear about this though. Hope all is sorted for you soon....! Whats going to happen now for the Welsh Motor Show? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted August 1, 2006 Author Share Posted August 1, 2006 Hey boyo.. Did you say you used an engine flush? Does that not remove all the nasties and cause more problems than they solve. That could of been something which sent it over the edge.. Sorry to hear about this though. Hope all is sorted for you soon....! Whats going to happen now for the Welsh Motor Show? Hi Markie, I don't think a hammer and a chisel would have removed this let alone flusher...it wasn' like tar... it was solid grit (like the small in a coal bucket if you can go back that far!). Martin will be trying to meet the deadline for completion on the Friday before the show so hopefully on the Saturday I'll be back panning it round Chepstow racecourse at full throttle.... oh sorry, I mean running it in gently! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 1, 2006 Share Posted August 1, 2006 Hi Markie, I don't think a hammer and a chisel would have removed this let alone flusher...it wasn' like tar... it was solid grit (like the small in a coal bucket if you can go back that far!). Martin will be trying to meet the deadline for completion on the Friday before the show so hopefully on the Saturday I'll be back panning it round Chepstow racecourse at full throttle.... oh sorry, I mean running it in gently! I heard that! I have kept alot of the coal from teh top of the engine and from the strainer in a bag for you for... errrr.... a fire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 OK guys here are some piccies of the rebuild... Looks like the turbos survived after a some TLC by one of Martins guys.... and the Pistons can stay. Still on schedule for the Welsh Motor Show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chiefgroover Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 Just seen this post. This oil problem happened to me @ 27.5K miles. Just bought the car from an old geezer who owned it from new. Drove it home and got a knocking from the big end that night. Opened the engine and the "black death" was everywhere. It was like yours on the head and inside the sump it was awful. New short motor and reground the valve's as i was at it and it was fine. Car had oil changed every 4,500 miles (as recommended by toyota) from new. Service history (toyota) to prove, so what went wrong?, Oil was in the sump too long sometimes near a year, car was driven too slowly so oil curdled. It has been having 10/60 RS for the last 6 oil changes, toyota dealer had also flushed, twice. Moral of the story, drive it like you stole it and change the oil every 3,000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 This problem is compounded if the car is left outdoors overnight. All the condensation piles up in the sump, degrading and diluting the oil. If the car is not used often, this builds up (oil level appears to go up!) and only clears up a bit if oil temps exceed 100C and the water evaporates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Just bought the car from an old geezer who owned it from new..... . Ahh so it was you who bought my old one Moral of the story, drive it like you stole it and change the oil every 3,000 miles. I'm gonna drive it real slow for the 1st 1000 miles then build up bit by bit... and then Bam... Will take on every snippet of your advice wholeheartedly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terawua Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Ahh so it was you who bought my old one I'm gonna drive it real slow for the 1st 1000 miles then build up bit by bit... and then Bam... Will take on every snippet of your advice wholeheartedly Wasn't there that theory that you should actually run your engine in hard so that the increased loads and pressure helped to seal the rings much better - meaning a more powerful motor? I am sure there was a thread on this a month or so ago. In which case some 'running in' at the motor show would eb quite, um 'spirited'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-macca Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Totally agree on the running it hard to run it in. Don't go too stupid but don't baby it, worst thing you can do to a new set of rings! If you read all the 'theories' on it, the physics behind it make perfect sense. Rings are made of a metal that is subtle enough to bed in for the first so many heat cycles. After that it goes hard and the oppertunity is gone. If you run it slowly and carefully, you don't push the rings out in the bores and cause them to bed in to the shape of the bore, thus you won't get such a good seal, you will have slightly lower compression and higher oil and fuel consumption. Ask any mechanic who works in a dealership, the best cars to drive are the reps cars that get thrashed from new. The slow, un-enthusiastic oil burners are the ones owned by the old folks etc. who only ever drive them slowly and carefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 Totally agree on the running it hard to run it in. Don't go too stupid but don't baby it, worst thing you can do to a new set of rings! If you read all the 'theories' on it, the physics behind it make perfect sense. Rings are made of a metal that is subtle enough to bed in for the first so many heat cycles. After that it goes hard and the oppertunity is gone. If you run it slowly and carefully, you don't push the rings out in the bores and cause them to bed in to the shape of the bore, thus you won't get such a good seal, you will have slightly lower compression and higher oil and fuel consumption. Ask any mechanic who works in a dealership, the best cars to drive are the reps cars that get thrashed from new. The slow, un-enthusiastic oil burners are the ones owned by the old folks etc. who only ever drive them slowly and carefully But the engine will not last as long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-macca Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 I disagree, there's no reason it should not last as long? All you are doing is bedding in the rings? Modern bearings don't need bedding in, they're under immense load the minute you start the engine anyway.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvteye Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Wasn't there that theory that you should actually run your engine in hard so that the increased loads and pressure helped to seal the rings much better - meaning a more powerful motor? I am sure there was a thread on this a month or so ago. In which case some 'running in' at the motor show would eb quite, um 'spirited'? OR But the engine will not last as long. but If both points are of similar importance, is it then a case of: Long term performance and efficiency V Engine life expectancy? If this is true then how can I get the best out of both worlds? If the following scale epitomizes general driving habits then: 1 = parked 5 = quiet cruising (no second tubby) but up circa 4500 revs 10 = Ferrari Kill So what number do you all think I should be driving at? I can then take an average (reduce it by 3 if Martin is watching:eyebrows: ) then drive according to that, Yeah? I'll start then.... eh 7 (C'mon Martin... put your score where your warranty is! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 whatever score you go for i've heard that its best to vary the revs etc and not just sit at say 50mph on a motorway for 500miles or so........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted September 26, 2006 Share Posted September 26, 2006 VVteye....How did this go in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucifer Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 VVteye....How did this go in the end? John car is currently back in for the 1000 mile service. It will be back to him hopefully by the end of the week with a full power run on the rolling road. A courtesy car was given to John on both occasions, and we had the car picked up in one instance Free of charge. John shoudl be able to comment here next week when he gets his rather nice VVt-i back with full power, which as you can see by the engine, it never had! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supraaaaaaaaaa Posted September 27, 2006 Share Posted September 27, 2006 is the block painted or powder coated the finish seems so damn smooth !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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