SkyJawa Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 But you still gave that bimmer what for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Glad you've found a problem. I know which hose you mean... Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Is this the same " I've checked all the hoses, and there is definitely not a leak" Ian that I spoke to on Saturday Morning;) Glad you've found an easily ( ish) repairable problem mate. Just hope it's the one LOL. Why don't you tape it up and check it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 Yeah yeah You aren't the first to remind me of that! No *obvious* hoses, is what I of course meant I've had to take off so much stuff to see the damn hose I may as well go all the way and replace it rather than bodge it, put everything back together, and then have to take it apart again to replace it anyway. May as well replace the one next to it as well while I'm at it as it's part of the same system. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 LOL, enjoy:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 Sooner I get rid of this sequential system the better What did you plumb your ISC valve air feed into once you junked the sequential plumbing btw? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 I now use a ford ISCV. It is on the TB and plumbed back to where the original position, connecting to the inlet with an adapter that I had machined up, connected with a largeish diameter hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Originally posted by Ian C Sooner I get rid of this sequential system the better Less than a year ago... Originally posted by Ian C I don't want to go big single as I love the drivability that the sequential setup gives. :D Sorry, couldn't resist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 It's a fair cop guv'nor Shows I can change my opinions on things given changes in circumstances. Namely a good value turbo kit and a weak dollar -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 12, 2004 Author Share Posted February 12, 2004 Unbelievably, it still doesn't work. Swapped the burst hose, put back together, charged the goddamn battery up AGAIN, and it behaves the same way. Someone answer me this question, please - when an engine nearly stalls it makes a metallic rattley noise, kinda knocking/pinking/whatever - is this caused by too much fuel or not enough fuel? Because when the revs drop I get it - even if I don't fully close the throttle. I've unplugged the Apexi AFC to no avail. I've swapped the fuel pressure regulator - no joy. Tomorrow I'll swap the idle control valve. I'm also going to disconnect all nonessential-to-idle systems and block off their vac prongs. Feels like I'm running out of ideas here though... No ECU fault codes. Any chance it's an earth fault? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 but it revs up fine? does it clatter when u let off the throttle at high revs or just whe it comes to 1k ish idle revs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimbo Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 I've been reading this thread for wot seems like an age. You poor bar-steward! We all know the feelin' of thinking you've solved the problem only to find out u havent! Ask Leslie Ash!! I really wanted to say that i had a 325-Beemer that had this exact problem, it would also sumtimes hunt whilst trying to idle and then conk out when the revs dropped down. It was fine when driving, only cocking up when crawling in traffic. (Loadsa nocking it into neutral, then left-foot-brakin while holding the revs up wiv the right foot), I cured it by replacing the coils, odd i know, but it turned out 'no4' was fOked!! I know it's a Zimmer but it IS a straight-6 engine aint it! And you do seem to av tried everything else! See wot 'appens mate innit?? :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Originally posted by eyefi but it revs up fine? does it clatter when u let off the throttle at high revs or just whe it comes to 1k ish idle revs? Revs up fine. Anything under about 1000rpm and it's rough but once above that it's OK. Well, a bit iffy at the moment as the ECU has been reset and it's trying to learn the engine with this ongoing problem, but hey. It clatters when I lift off at high revs. It even clatters if I partially close the throttle rather than shut it completely. If I knew if it was too much fuel or too much air I reckon it would help diagnosis... -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Originally posted by crimbo I've been reading this thread for wot seems like an age. You poor bar-steward! We all know the feelin' of thinking you've solved the problem only to find out u havent! Ask Leslie Ash!! I really wanted to say that i had a 325-Beemer that had this exact problem, it would also sumtimes hunt whilst trying to idle and then conk out when the revs dropped down. It was fine when driving, only cocking up when crawling in traffic. (Loadsa nocking it into neutral, then left-foot-brakin while holding the revs up wiv the right foot), I cured it by replacing the coils, odd i know, but it turned out 'no4' was fOked!! I know it's a Zimmer but it IS a straight-6 engine aint it! And you do seem to av tried everything else! See wot 'appens mate innit?? :) Cheers guv I know a man near me with a few spare bits lying around, I can try swapping the coils over, after all I'm getting quite quick at that sort of thing now... -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Ian, have you got anything that could interfere with the cars ignition timing? - As I'm sure you know, incorrect timing can cause det and/or stalling, but I'd have thought it would be more noticable on throttle increase... Probably nothing, just thinking out loud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Originally posted by Matt Harwood Ian, have you got anything that could interfere with the cars ignition timing? - As I'm sure you know, incorrect timing can cause det and/or stalling, but I'd have thought it would be more noticable on throttle increase... ive been thinking about the timing, but its the running ok bit that throws it. it does sound like the timing is being thrown though. u dont have adjustable cam wheels that r slipping? if it went rich it should smoke black. when u lift off at high revs it should cut fuel entirely anyway, so i dont think its a fuel problem. can u try another ecu in there? have u checked the idl1 & idl2? so, just to recap the start of the story. it was all running fine, no problems, u took it in for a service and it was fine for a while when u had the car returned, then it started being a bit funny, which has gradually got worse? nothing was tampered with or adjusted in the mean time, any battery disconnects or on car charging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Seen as you had your plugs changed at the service and the problem has appeared since then (and bearing in mind everything else you've already checked/swapped) I would strongly suspect it's an ignition problem related to the coils. The wiring in that area is not the strongest, maybe a wire was fractured when the coils were taken out to do the plugs. Maybe one of the coils is breaking down? As eyefi said though, it runs ok in the higher revs which makes things less clear. What about the cam phase sensor or even the crank sensor, I don't know how difficult they are to get at or whether a diagnostic check would highlight a malfunction or not. Just my thoughts on the matter..... really hope you sort it soon mate. Regards Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Nothing installed, no. Crank position sensor may need a shufty though, who knows? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 No adjustable cam gears either. Cam belt tension seems OK, and the timing marks all line up correctly. I'll try unplugging coils one at a time, if the idle goes even worse I'll know it's sparking OK, if nothing happens I'll have a winner eyefi - your recap is pretty much spot on. However, on getting the car back from the service (where it drove fine all the way home), I left the passenger door ajar and flattened the battery. I then charged it up (off-car as always) and drove the car about 10 miles before laying it up for 2 weeks getting the wheels refurbed. I did notice that the idle was a bit iffy after this but I put it down to cold weather/cold start and the reset ECU due to the battery recharge. Then it really manifested itself last saturday morning, but I still went to the Fleet meet and there are a couple of people here who will attest to it still running OK "under load" Do coil packs fall apart gradually? If so it sounds more promising it's them... Besides, not much left to check anyway -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Incidentally I've just remembered I've borrowed a video camera, so I'll film the engine being very poorly and upload it somewhere for people to have a shufty at. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam W Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Ian, if I didn't know better I'd say it was the ECU relearning the idle after thebattery being disconnected. My car takes up to a month to remember how to idle after a reset, exactly the same symptoms as you describe until then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Nah, even when I swapped the cams over the relearn took three revups and liftoffs to idle properly. Every other time I've reset it it ran like a pig for a minute and then cheered up. I've never heard it run this rough before -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 Right. Progress. I've swapped the idle speed control valve, and that didn't change a thing. I swapped the MAP sensor, that didn't change anything. I unplugged the PAS hose from the intake manifold and the idle rose to 950rpm and sounded sweeeeeeet The hose prong was sucking in air like a hoover. So - it's not getting enough air. Going back to a shit idle, I took the big fat feed hose to the idle speed control valve and that didn't change anything, so there isn't a blockage intake-side of the idle control valve. I find it hard to believe that two different ISCV's have exactly the same problem so I don't think it's that at fault. The rearmost hose on the intake manifold feeds the BOV, so that's not gonna normally draw in air, the top one feeds the brake booster so that's not going normally draw in air either. The PCV hose isn't supposed to supply much in the way of air so I can rule that out. This leaves the PAS line. Now, there is a hose coming from the intake, *before* the trac and throttle butterflys, which goes to the PAS pump, onto one prong of a dual-pronged attachment. The other prong goes off to the intake manifold, the very hose I removed to make the idle better. Both hoses are undamaged and are not blocked up, but I can't blow through either of them if they are both attached to the prongy thing on the PAS pump. Questions - why does the PAs pump need two vac reference lines, one pre and one post throttle body? And should there be a path of air through this prongy thing, i.e. is it blocked? Because if it didn't stop air going through it, the idle would be correct... The other area I need to look into is the internal channel for the air delivered by the ISCV. Could be a serious dismantlement Thoughts please -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 Any chance of a photo of this PAS vacuum bit ??? Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted February 13, 2004 Share Posted February 13, 2004 so does that pump valve open, allowing air to bypass the butterfly, when the steering wheel is moved thus giving u the desired raise in revs to run the ps pump? do the revs raise if u steer at idle? i dont think this is the problem, but its showing u whats wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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