Ian C Posted February 13, 2004 Author Share Posted February 13, 2004 http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/power_steering_pump/ps_rebuild3538.JPG I can't get a photo as the camera's battery holds zero charge at the moment But that's the service manual money shot. On the left hand side of the page there is a bit called "Pressure Feed Tube", and it's that. The left hand hose goes to pre-throttle, the right hand hose off it goes post throttle body. It appears to operate a valve, what exactly for I can't work out from the pictures. Am I looking at this the wrong way, then, and the valve in fact references of PAS fluid pressure or something to up the idle by allowing air through? Or could it be part of the system that decrease PAS assistance at speed... I'll check if steering stalls the engine or idles-up. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 15, 2004 Author Share Posted February 15, 2004 OK, I reckon everyone else has run out of ideas and I'm frankly not suprised So you'll be pleased to hear that I reckon I've rumbled it this time. I unplugged the FCD and the idle recovered. I plugged it back in and it died. But, before I leapt to blaming the device, I poked around a bit more, and while holding the FCD I started the car and it ran spot on for the first time yet I carefully put the FCD down on the footwell floor, still OK. I prodded the mass of ECU loom wiring that has the AFC and the FCD tapped into, and the engine stumbled and droped the idle. Can't argue with that. It's a gammy bit of wiring, and my first port of call is the various hacks into the MAP signal wire. More news as and when... -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkyJawa Posted February 15, 2004 Share Posted February 15, 2004 Glad it looks like you've got to the bottom of it mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted February 16, 2004 Share Posted February 16, 2004 sound like u've got a bit of dodgy wiring in the ecu loom mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 16, 2004 Share Posted February 16, 2004 Funnily enough, for months now, since fitting the AFC and ITC, my ecu loom and all the electrical bits have been hanging loose in the passenger foot well. Whilst it looks unsightly, it didn't bother me as I was only using the car on dry weather Saturdays. Last Saturday, I decided to tidy it all up, tie all the cables neatly, and put it all back together... On the way home, the car kept cutting out under acceleration or hard braking, it was dark and I had no torch, so I limped all the way home after about 10 cut-outs... When I came to check it all over, I couldn't find any break in the connectors, no dry joints, no bad earths, in fact I could find nothing wrong at all. So, I put it all back together, and it's been good as gold ever since :conf: Dodgy auto electricians! Hope you've found the problem now Ian. And who know's how long that hose has been split for... Might be better than ever now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florin Posted October 6, 2011 Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) This sounds just like a problem Ive got, can you pleeeasseee tell me where the hose is and best way to go about it. Also I have a man fcd not sure if thats what you had/have.... but am wondering if the same problem could happen with a non electric on.... Edited October 7, 2011 by Florin (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 Wow, a blast from the past The hose split didn't fix jack. Turned out in the end to be a failed Apexi sAFC fuel controller. It wasn't trimming back my 550cc injectors any more, even though it was saying it was and seemed to be functioning OK in all other respects. Took about 3 months and an oscilloscope on the injectors to diagnose that in the end But I did also need to refurb my ECU plug connectors to fix a load of glitches as well. Most overfuelling issues turn out to be a failed lambda sensor causing rich running, check that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florin Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Wow, a blast from the past The hose split didn't fix jack. Turned out in the end to be a failed Apexi sAFC fuel controller. It wasn't trimming back my 550cc injectors any more, even though it was saying it was and seemed to be functioning OK in all other respects. Took about 3 months and an oscilloscope on the injectors to diagnose that in the end But I did also need to refurb my ECU plug connectors to fix a load of glitches as well. Most overfuelling issues turn out to be a failed lambda sensor causing rich running, check that. Were is that (lambda sensor)? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Florin Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Were is that (lambda sensor)? thanks Its a 2jz-gte with a v160 tranny. The idle has been giving me a hard time staying between 400 to 700. Had gotton it from the shop and drove it for three days at 15 psi and it was wonderfull )). On the 4th day the belt skipped 5 teeth at the cams. Took the belt off ( which was 10 days old) and but a brand new tensinor on it and sicne then its been running very very rich to the tune of 8 mpg. Took it back to the shop ( guy charges 70$ an hr) hes like look if you leave it hear I would start with changing the spark plugs, cleaning the maf sensor and doing a compression check " but you can do that yourself without paying me. ( I DO know a lot about cars) just never have dealt with a car that was turbo charged let alone a supra. So I did what he told me got the spark plugs he told me gapped them and got the "maf sensor cleaner and sprayed let it dry and blew it out with "dry" shop air. Still have the same problem. Tru the scanner on it for the hell of it wich brought up dtc 13. Troublshooting and found out possiable couses. " crank sensor, crank trigger wheel, belt loose or jumped. And thats where I am now. Im 99% sure the belt is where it needs to be , did the whole tdc thing whit the cams, number 1 piston and crank. So Im thinking of putting on a used crank sensor and seeing what happens. If that doesnt change anything then put mine back on and trying another trigger if that doesnt change anything then Ill have to start thinking about changing the maf sensor with a new one ( for the fuel/air ratio) and new timing belt. Thats about where things stand. Aslo beside the low idle bad mpg, in 3d 4th 5th at low rpm 1800ish it wants to stall/backfire/die... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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