Indicators not self cancelling

[sarjo]

Only noticed this since some of the plastic casing around the steering coloum was removed and refitted a couple of weeks ago. Cant see what I've done and the indicator stick / arm has got free movement both ways so not like its stuck or anything?

 

Any ideas?

[SUPRALOOPY]

you have a locating lug that cancels the indicators check that! ;-)

[MrRalphMan]

It sounds like the plastic lug has gone missing or has maybe broken (As SL said).

 

If you turn the wheel all the way to the left, indicate left and hold it there.

Then turn the wheel to the right, hopefully you'll feel the lug catch as it tries to cancel the indicator.

Do it with the engine on otherwise it's going to be very hard to turn the wheel with no PS.

 

If not.. I think you'll have to take the wheel off to check. That's something I haven't done, so someone else would have to advise you of this.

[rmountain05]

I've recently been fitting a quick release Momo steering wheel and have had it off more times than i care to mention!!! But if you remove the steering wheel there is a round piece of plastic that the steering wheel holds in place when you turn (which cancels the signal) It's easy to fix but as i found if you don't relocate it correctly the signals get messed up.

 

FIRSTLY -I'm assuming that you've got a standard factory Supra wheel.

SECONDLY -I don't have a driver airbag and I'm unsure what problems you

may find if you do. Personally i'd just remove the fuse so it won't

activate (i think)!

THIRLDY -Make sure that your front wheels are exaclty straight or you'll

have to refit the wheel a few times to get it looking straight

afterwards. (try going forwards and then reversing in a straight

line a few times).

 

HERE GOES...

 

(1) Remove the fuse for the horn in the engine compartment.

 

(2) Remove the phillips screw at the bottom of the steering wheel

 

(3) Apply a little pressure to pop off the front of the steering wheel.

there's 3 connecting plugs on a three spoke steering wheel.

 

(4) Unclip the electrical connector for the horn.

 

(5) Unscrew the bolt that holds the wheel onto the steering column.

 

(6) Remove the steering wheel. Behind the wheel there are 4 locating

holes which need alligning with 3 lugs. (mentioned later)

 

NOTE: Try and be reasonably gentle when pulling the wheel from the

column itself. It's probably been on there a while and I nearly

broke my nose by hitting myself in the face with the wheel.

YES, IT STINGS!

 

(7) You should now see the offending round piece of white plastic. It

should have 3 lugs on it. One lug on its own and 2 lugs on the

opposite side.

 

(8) There is also a circular black plastic disc that spins round.

(what the horn connector plugs into.)

 

(9) Turn the black plastic disc so that the connector is at 12 o'clock.

 

(10) Next relocate the white circular plastic part so that the single lug is

at 12 o'clock.

 

(11) That's it. Now reconnect the electrical connector for the horn.

Replace the steering wheel (ensuring that the white circular plastic

part is still located correctly.

Tighten up the steering column bolt

Fasten on the front cover of the wheel.

Don't forget the phillips screw

Replace the horn fuse.

 

NOTE: I didn't use a torque wrench when tightening up the steering

column bolt but found that if you do it up too tightly then the

horn will sound as you turn the wheel as you're damaging the

black circular disc by squashing it too hard. I found that just a

little more than finger tight seems to be ok. Well, I haven't

crashed as my wheel hasn't fallen off! - YET!

 

 

Hope that helps. p.s. if anyone out there has an M plate '95 import (SZ-R) and have moded thier steering wheel, where did they get their steering hub from? Got mine from motorspeed.com but the hub they supplied me with is clearly not specific to this model even though they say it is. As it don't fit propper!?