TLicense Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 All, I've just had fitted the RPS light-weight flywheel. It rattles a little at idle (as expected) but it also seems to rattle under load . Is this normal or could it be soemthing else, bearing in mind I've just had a 2nd hand gearbox fitted and a new clutch? I think it's the flywheel as the sound is very similar to the flywheel rattle at idle. Could it be the clutch "bedding in"? It does pick up quite well though, although the flat spot in my fuel map at 1000 rpm and the light weight flywheel do seem to help stall the car when I try to gently pull away. I'll hopefully have that sorted this weekend though. Any help would be much appreciated, Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 Tony, they tend to make a noise under load under 3k, then it's gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 It's the gearbox that's rattling, backlash in the geartrain. That's why they have a dual mass flywheel as standard, to damp this. Just a glitch of a long stroke engine combined with the truck like getrag 6 speeder. Either live with it or try a heavier grade gear oil, but with the latter you are getting into experimental stuff. Toyota say special oil, personally, if it were mine I'd try a hypoy oil and see if the rattle goes. The thin oil Toyota spec will be to maximize fuel efficiency. In fact, a high torque engine might benefit with BETTER gearbox life with a hypoy oil. My only concern might be synchro life.. As I say, at your own risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 30, 2004 Author Share Posted January 30, 2004 Ahaaaa. That'll be it then. I'll ask around about the hypoy oil, I know nothing about it, but am willing to learn (well willing to pester ) Many thanks Tony License Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 Tony, before you change your fresh oil, try raising the idle on the AEM to 1100 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 I thought the special V160 oil that toyota reccomend was nothing to do with viscosity but a seal degradation issue !!!!!!Still what do they know !! Dude :flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 30, 2004 Author Share Posted January 30, 2004 Originally posted by Terry S Tony, before you change your fresh oil, try raising the idle on the AEM to 1100 rpm. Was allready going to give it a try By the way, I removed the trac ecu this evening - bye bye trac light Cheers Tony License Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONKEYmark Posted January 30, 2004 Share Posted January 30, 2004 hi tony have you seen this video of the AEM its the guy off horsepowerfreaks.com, he has done a small vid explaining the AEM he has 800 hp at the wheels with 272 cams and lightend flywheel and has it running great. no flywheel rattle. he has his prm set to 1350 rpm it looks a top bit of kit. http://horsepowerfreaks.com/ this is that video lad worth a watch http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/videos/HorsepowerFreaksAEMDemo.wmv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 Originally posted by dude I thought the special V160 oil that toyota reccomend was nothing to do with viscosity but a seal degradation issue !!!!!!Still what do they know !! Dude :flame Dev It was claimed to be a bushing, as in phosphor bronze bushing, problem. I never saw anything regarding this from either Getrag or Toyota themselves, in fact I recall it starting from some US web site. The current trend for "thin" manual gearbox oils is all to do with achieving the best MPG, and it's done as a fine balancing act against gearbox longevity. If the synchro pressures and friction coefficients accomodate a hypoy oil without abnormal slippage, then the thicker gade oils may help with idle and light load gear train rattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 I don't know anything much about gearboxes, but Here's the comment from Getrag about the problem, from mkiv.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 So use only the fully tested and then released transmission oils. So a bit of EP 90 from Halfrauds dont cut the mustard then , and beware boys and girls the oil that comes out may look like auto fluid but it isnt , the special oil is around £30 a litre and youll have to buy 2 litres !!! Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted January 31, 2004 Share Posted January 31, 2004 The seal degradation issue is covered over on Supraforums !! Dude:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 2, 2004 Author Share Posted February 2, 2004 Another issue that I've come across (cross postin on my own thread - tsk!) is that the clutch only disengages right at the very very bottom of the pedal travel. I know the clutch is hydraulic, but is there any way of moving the bite point a bit further up the pedal travel? The clutch is brand new (done about 250 miles if that) Isn't the fact that it's right at the bottom of travel usually a sign of the clutch being on it's way out? Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Tony, I know on Kevins car (with the same clutch as you) the bite is right at the top..? Maybe ask Leon? Gaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 Originally posted by TLicense Another issue that I've come across (cross postin on my own thread - tsk!) is that the clutch only disengages right at the very very bottom of the pedal travel. I know the clutch is hydraulic, but is there any way of moving the bite point a bit further up the pedal travel? The clutch is brand new (done about 250 miles if that) Isn't the fact that it's right at the bottom of travel usually a sign of the clutch being on it's way out? Regards Do a search and you'll find I have warned a lot of people about this, both here and on the MR2 lists. I have got to the stage where I refuse to fit the damned things. Personally I am convinced they are remanufactured with surface ground pressure plates, and this is a typical problem with such rebuilt clutches, as the geometry goes to pot. With a conventional, none dual mass flywheel you can machine and rebalance the flywheel with a step to cure this, with dual mass you are stuffed. I made new actuating bits for the 2 I got lumbered with, now I just steer clear. My own uprated clutches are based on brand new genuine Toyota covers and discs, and don't have this problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 2, 2004 Share Posted February 2, 2004 On a similar but slightly deviated note: The RUF tuned 993 Turbo does away with the Porsche dual mass flywheel and replaces it with a lightened item as part of its performance upgrade. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 4, 2004 Author Share Posted February 4, 2004 Managed to fix the clutch bite problem. On the back of the clutch, onthe shaft the is probably connected to the piston of the master cylinder, there is a screw whith which you can adjust the preload on the master cylinder. I guess it's there so you can remove any slack in the system. Anyway that was loose and rattling around on it's own free will. Tightened it up and the clutch bite point moved up the pdeal travel a treat. Thanks for all your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2004 Share Posted February 4, 2004 Hmm, best buy a few spare release bearings in then, by removing the "slack" in the system you will find the release bearing and clutch cover fingers are permanently loaded up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 4, 2004 Author Share Posted February 4, 2004 Ahh, That'll not be favourite then if that's the case then. Is the adjusting nut on the back of the clutch definitely going to preload the clutch or is it simply going to adjust the clutch master piston position? Cheers Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted February 4, 2004 Author Share Posted February 4, 2004 I've just been out and checked, If you push down on the pedal, there is still a bit of "free play" before you start to what feels like push against the clutch. Is this what you mean by free play Chris? Is this not where the release bearing is moving towards the fingers? If it is then we're laughing. If not then it's back to how it was and a trip to Milton Keynes. Thanks for all you help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2004 Share Posted February 4, 2004 The MKIV has a pull type clutch, the bearing, circlipped into the cover, pulls on the fingers. So long as some free paly exists you should be OK. Toyota allowed a lot of free play to accomodate wear of the driven plate. you will need to watch this constantly throughout the life of the clutch. IMO it's a clutch fault and indicative of geometry problems, often caused by remanufactured pressure covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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