BigPedro Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Guys Activity for the comming weekend is the changing of my rear discs and pads i was wondering if anyone had a quick guide to doing this...? I've done this on most of the cars I've owned in my life so dont imagine it will pose me to many problems but was curious about any possible pit falls with the car being a J spec Any hints and tip also welcome Cheers Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 You need a bolt to thread through to force the disc off. I can't remember if its 8mm or 10mm. I think it's 8mm. In doing so, the disc might pull the handbrake-shoes off their pins, which might damage the erm plate that the pins clip through. Make sure you've got some fine long-nose pliers to get the pins back in. Nightmare. That's on a UK spec. I presume it's the same setup on a J-spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 It might even be 6mm thinking about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 You need a bolt to thread through to force the disc off.Where does this bolt go? I've never changed discs on a Supra but I'm thinking of changing my rear discs to grooved ones to match the fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Where does this bolt go? I've never changed discs on a Supra but I'm thinking of changing my rear discs to grooved ones to match the fronts. It goes through the face of the disc (not the pad-contact area, the hub-area) and pushes against the hub to force the disc off. There are two of these holes at 180 degree to each other so you can wind a bolt a bit in the top one, then the disc will be crooked (coming away at the top but not the bottom), then wind one in the bottom, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 if you open the cover, and wind the handbrake adjuster all the way off, it wont effect the handbrake shoe clips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPedro Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Cheers for the info here guys, is there any type of maintainance guide i could purchase for this i.e. Haynes etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 if you open the cover, and wind the handbrake adjuster all the way off, it wont effect the handbrake shoe clips top tip Rob!! cheers. So you mean the handbrake lever cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 take the wheel off, the brake disc will have a hole in it, rotate the disc untill you see a adjuster. then with a screw driver it is possible to wind the adjuster off,so that brake shoes are no longer near the disc. it will all come clear when you see the hole! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPedro Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Its amazing how many thing revolve around putting things in holes..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPedro Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 So if i screw the adjuster the shoe will move away from the disc allowing me access to remove yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 take the wheel off, the brake disc will have a hole in it, rotate the disc untill you see a adjuster. then with a screw driver it is possible to wind the adjuster off,so that brake shoes are no longer near the disc. it will all come clear when you see the hole! I think it's worth noting that the hole needs to be at the BOTTOM of its rotation to see the adjuster. Use a thin flat-bladed screwdriver and flick the notches downwards a bunch of times to retract the handbrake shoes. Then there is no need for that screw people weret talking about. Upon re-fitting, tighten the adjuster all the way, then loosen by 8 notches (according to the manual) unless you are not replacing the handbrakes shoes, in which case do it fewer times (otherwise the handbrake will not bite hard) - no need to mess with the handbrake itself. You'll need a big f**k-off breaker bar to crack the caliper nuts off (mine's 24" - worked a treat) and a torque wrench to do them up again (77lbs/ft) with 17mm sockets, 1 shallow and 1 deep. You'll probably also want a mechanics punch to drive the brake pad pins out with. Mine are stuck like a bastard, so I'm going to chop them up with a dremel, punch out the remains and replace with new ones - someone posted the part number on here at some time or other. Don't forget to use copper grease, but nowhere near the disc/pad surfaces. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPedro Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Thanks for the help here guys but this has now been canned...! Just spoke to the guy at a new garage services joint that opened a few months ago round the corner for me an hes going to change the rear discs and pads that i supply him for £35.....WINNER For this price im not even going to bother getting my hands dirty Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DG3CKO ROB Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I'm thinking of attempting this on Saturday morning... (My Mot is booked for 12:00) I'm sure I must be mad Any further tips anyone? I haven't seen a guide with pics yet so I'll take a few and post something up afterwards... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr keef Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 take the wheel off, the brake disc will have a hole in it, rotate the disc untill you see a adjuster. then with a screw driver it is possible to wind the adjuster off,so that brake shoes are no longer near the disc. it will all come clear when you see the hole! i love your avatar Rich who is that fine woman:eyebrows: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ark Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I'm thinking of attempting this on Saturday morning... (My Mot is booked for 12:00) I'm sure I must be mad Any further tips anyone? I haven't seen a guide with pics yet so I'll take a few and post something up afterwards... Rob Nothing that isn't already posted. I'm sure you can find a handy list of the swear words you'll need, somewhere on the Internet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra dan Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 I'm thinking of attempting this on Saturday morning... (My Mot is booked for 12:00) I'm sure I must be mad Any further tips anyone? I haven't seen a guide with pics yet so I'll take a few and post something up afterwards... Rob would be good if you could post a few before and after pics rob, im going to do mine soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3DG3CKO ROB Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 As you can see the discs were pretty well worn... I undid the two smaller bolts to remove the first bit of the calliper 14mm socket I think - Easy Removing the second part of the calliper was more tricky... I needed a longer 17mm socket as the ones I had didn't leave enough room to work around the suspension - Once off it was all copper greased up so it floats nicely... I didn't bother with the hand brake shoe adjuster and went with the 'wack it with a hammer approach' which worked a treat Once the new disc was on I pushed back the pistons re-assembled the calliper and fitted the pads and - Finnished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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