oilman Posted June 27, 2006 Share Posted June 27, 2006 What’s written on your oil bottle and what does it mean. This post may seem like going back to basics but I am constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore no idea of what they are buying/using. To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does! 1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc) 2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils) 3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings) 4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01 etc) Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism So, what does the above information mean and why is it important? THE BASICS All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is. VISCOSITY Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc) Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer. In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance. The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required. SPECIFICATIONS Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important. API This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel © specifications. The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are: PETROL SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge. SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability. SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories. Note: All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications. DIESEL CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified. Note: All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications. If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4 ACEA This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur). Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows: A1 Fuel economy petrol A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete) A3 High performance and/or extended drain A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance B1 Fuel economy diesel B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete) B3 High performance and/or extended drain B4 For direct injection car diesel engines B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible. C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible. C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS. Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur. Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils. APPROVALS Many oils mention various OEM’s on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this. Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones. Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil: VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00 Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils MB – 229.1 Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils. BMW – LL98 Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils. FINALLY Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling. Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a few to avoid! Recommended for use where…………… May be used where the following specifications apply…………… Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification) Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for) Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence) Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic. Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the ingredients and lower the performance levels. If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our website at http://www.opieoils.co.uk. Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 I would have thought a sticky was warranted for this one? Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 nice one p.s what are your thoughts on zx1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Good write up, nice to see it on nearly every other motoring forum in the UK as well Fantastic marketing mate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted July 10, 2006 Author Share Posted July 10, 2006 nice one p.s what are your thoughts on zx1 Steer clear of that stuff. Just another way to mess up your oil and engine. Cheers Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Useful post, Oilman:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew7 Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 How do you remember that lot when you are down halfrauds choosing your oil?..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Anyone know what oil is recommended for the UK supra TT? Just the VISCOSITY of it? I was interested whether its different to that of the J-spec TT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkdtime Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Nope its the same, Silkolene pro 10w50 is what most on here go for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rayman Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Nope its the same, Silkolene pro 10w50 is what most on here go for. Argh right thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilman Posted October 16, 2006 Author Share Posted October 16, 2006 If you missed this first time around, it's worth a read Cheers Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Since this thread was brought up from the deep, here's another question: Are there oils known to be 'kinder' to parts such as valve stem seals or crank seals? I suspect that some formulations may accelerate their decay by allowing them to crack and harden. Any hard facts on the subject? Others here might be interested as well, since these are known 'weak' points on supras. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 John, I'd expect the majority of the ageing process on the stem seals is the heat from the exhaust valve guides. I expect its these that crack and leak oil most. Regarding which oils will make the situation worse, probably any fully synthetic oil. I say this because the run of the mill mineral oils will probably sludge up and fill in the gaps caused by cracking and wear. A synthetic, by comparison, will tend to clean out this sludge, leaving the path open to oil entry and smoking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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