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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Engine tuning FAQ, my annual rant


Chris Wilson

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Every year I have a rant and try and get new members to spend an hour or so reading a decent engine tuning, electronic fuel injection web site. In fact it should be compulsary reading! The site is one of a manufacturer of a basic EFI system. It's not a bad system, it does what it says on the box. I don't recommend it because support and hands on experience over here in the UK is patchy, and the MKIV needs a more sophisticated ecu. What the site DOES offer is basic, well presented and very readable info on modern FI systems, fuel octane requirements and turbo boost, et cetera. In this regard I have yet to find a better site. Unless you fancy yourself as a guru, and maybe even then too, read the damned thing, from end to end. Read about why you DON'T want a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, why raising boost much over stock with radical internal mods is dumb, read why our pump fuel is the single biggest limiting factor to producing mega turbo HP. It's all there, it will take a while to read, it's worth printing out, it's all free, the site is fast, without gimmicks or hard sell.

I reckon 90% of the engine tuning questions asked throughout the year in here are answered for you.

Rant over ;)

 

Go HERE

 

I guarantee it will be time well spent. I have no connection with the site or its products whatsoever, but I endorse it wholeheartedly.

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Originally posted by Terminator

Interesting stuff Chris, thanks for posting the link.

 

Just for starters this one was thought provoking

 

09/23/03 Mystery Timing/ Detonation Problems on Engines With Rubber Damped Crank Pulleys.

 

I think I'll be going for a new pulley when I next change my belt.

 

Find TDC with a dial gauge down no 1 plug `ole. Never trust the factory marks, even on a new engine. But the point is very valid, butchered attempts to remove the crank pulley are often followed by the outer ring moving or even coming off. You can pin them, but I rarely bother. (3 circumfrential slots in outer ring, running about 10 mm in lenghth, about 8 mm wide. In centre of slots a 6mm HT steel cap pin is threaded into inner ring. All equidistant and similar slots and pins to maintain balance. if the bonding fails the pins hold things together and make a lot of noise :innocent:

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Originally posted by Chris Wilson

Find TDC with a dial gauge down no 1 plug `ole. Never trust the factory marks, even on a new engine. But the point is very valid, butchered attempts to remove the crank pulley are often followed by the outer ring moving or even coming off. You can pin them, but I rarely bother. (3 circumfrential slots in outer ring, running about 10 mm in lenghth, about 8 mm wide. In centre of slots a 6mm HT steel cap pin is threaded into inner ring. All equidistant and similar slots and pins to maintain balance. if the bonding fails the pins hold things together and make a lot of noise :innocent:

 

Some rubber damped pulleys are bonded together. Some are simply pressed. I guess these could rotate if incorrectly held when tring to remove the pulley.

 

If the rubber has gone out of tune (maybe because heat has been applied or it has aged) then the crankposition sensor can mis-read because of crank vibration. This can cause misfires, or inaccurate misfire detection. Not sure about det though.

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