TLicense Posted March 4, 2007 Author Share Posted March 4, 2007 Yep that's the plan, although it probably won't happen till after it's mapped and running. I'm going to have to spend some time beforehand making heatshields for the brake/clutch master cylinders etc. I'm probably going to have to ceramic coat the clutch cylinder shield for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mas Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 Let me say thanks for doing this too mate, wicked job, very welldone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted March 13, 2007 Share Posted March 13, 2007 looks fantastic mate! well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 After what has seemed an absolute age of waiting for stuff to happen, I've managed to crack on over the weekend and get some bits sorted. I'm hoping to have a big push and to get the car back on the road before May. On Dimitri's advice, I decided to get the injector top-hats welded to the inlet plenum to prevent any boost leaks under boost. Doing this meant that I had to strip off all of the inlet side. Again. So anyway, strip away I did. Whilst the inlet plenum was off, it gave me an ideal opportunity to change the bolt that holds the oil filter mount assy to one that I could plumb a pressure sensor into. Here's the standard bolt. You can see I've undone it a little:- And here's the replacement with my AEM 150psi pressure sensor attached. The Toyota part number is 90401-19008:- Now the AEM pressure sensor comes with a 1/8NPT thread on it. The union bolt comes with some other thread, which is about 8mm dia, so I had to buy a 1/8NPT tap and drill and tap the bolt out. It's not the best in the world, as 1/8NPT isn't a million miles away from about 8mm so it's not the tightest thread in the world, but is just about bites up as the sensor is nearlly fully wound in. (The thread on the sensor is tapered). I also used PTFE tape to help seal the thread. There's a star washer that goes behind the bolt. As mentioned I had the top hats for the injectors welded to the inlet runners:- No boost leaks for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 One thing I'd forgotten when I fitted the inlet plenum before, was that as I'm keeping the charcoal cannister, there's a VSV that is used for it. It's mounted under the pressure cannister usually. I've modified pressure cannister bracket to get rid of the supports for the pressure cannister, as I'm not using it which means I'd lost the mount for the VSV. There's just enough room to drill a hole in the bracket and mount the VSV without it fouling the wiring loom when it's all re-fitted:- Here's my completed inlet runner assembly:- So I re-fitted this the same as I did before, and then fitted the fuel rail, the same as I did before. However before I fitted the inlet plenum, I had to wire up the injector connectors. I was told by someone on here, and later confirmed it myself, that it doesn't matter which way around the injectors are wired. So I simply cut the connectors off, and wired on the new ones, and then covered the joints in heatshrink:- I did the same for the other six. I then re-installed the rest of the inlet plenum. You could be confused into thinking it was almost there now!:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 A leap of faith on the injectors then Tony! All looking good, any idea of an ETA yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Great job Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 I then started looking at the wiring for the fuel pumps. This needs to be fused, so I decided to use a couple of spare slots on the engine bay fuse box:- I started by undoing the three nuts to release the distribution board:- Lift up the distribution board and gently release the rubber water seal:- I then unclipped the rear cover:- Then using a stock connector (I'll try to dig out the part number later) I connected a eyelett connector rated to 30amps:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Class One Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 New posts copied over into technical reference faq sticky thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 I then pushed this into the back of the distribution board. To do this, you first need to pull out the yellow lock on the other side:- And then just push the connector into the back until it clicks. The orientation needs to be as I have it here otherwise it won't fit:- I did this twice (Once for each pump) and then connected them both to the main battery feed:- I then took another 2 of the stock connectors and soldered them both to about 3 metres of 40amp rated wire:- And fitted the connector into the corresponding other slot on the distribution board. To route the cable out of the fuse box, rather than having the wires kind of just hanging out the side, I decided to push them down the stock rubber seal. It was a bit of a pain feeding 3 metres, and then another 3 metres of cable down there, but needs must!:- At the bottom of the rubber seal, there's a small hole (at least there was on mine, it looked like it should be there) I fed the wire out of this:- With both of these done, I then re-fitted the distribution board:- Now I can run the pumps using a couple of 25 or 30 amp fuses without having to worry about overloading anything else, and above all it looks like that's how it supposed to be! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 26, 2007 Share Posted March 26, 2007 Very tidy indeed, great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 I then thought about how to get the cable to the very back of the car. It's going to have to go through the interior of the car. So first of all I threaded all 6 metres of the cable through some large heat-shrink (It has to be large enough for the 2 power feeds, and the control feed for the relays, as they'll be joining it once it's in the cabin and near the footwell) Feeding it through this was a REAL pain in the arse, and took me about an hour :- To get it into the cabin, I decide to go through into the inner wing, and then into the cabin through a large grommet I know is down there. To do this I had to partially remove the inner wheel arch. Here you can see the cable coming into the wheel arch through the existing hole in the engine bay:- Then using a sharp scalpel, I made an X shaped incision into the grommet. (Do this rather than making a hole as it'l less likely to let any water in) and then fed the cable through:- This is about where I got to for now. As I had to tidy it all up a little I fed the cable to where it was going to live, under the carpet:- You can see how nice and neat it looks in the engine bay:- Hopefully next weekend, I'll get the control feeds from the ECU wired in, and fed through the heatshrink, and get the whole lot fed into the boot (have to remove the rear interior) and wired up to the fuel pump relays. I'll then be able to run the pumps and pressure check the entire fuel system.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 A leap of faith on the injectors then Tony! All looking good, any idea of an ETA yet? Sorry Dan, I couldn't remember who it was that told me. Cheers for that. I must admit I kept doubting it, mostly because of my incorrect pre-conceived ideas of how the injectors worked. So I did a little reading and, yup, you were right I'm really hoping to have it done by the end of April. I really don't want it to have been going on for a year, which will be the 15th of May. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 Very tidy indeed, great work Cheers Wez. I'm not sure if it was all worth it though. Literally took me pretty much all weekend to get that lot done. I guess my work rate at the moment isn't particularly high! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 26, 2007 Author Share Posted March 26, 2007 New posts copied over into technical reference faq sticky thread. Cheers Doug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 What ecu are you going to use Tony? Are you sticking with the AEM or going for a Motec? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Who are you using for the ceramic coating you mentioned earlier in the thread ? I need to find out whether you can powdercoat on top of said coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt H Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 absolutely awesome tony! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Great job Tony. Have been thinking about using the spare fuse holders in the fuse box for a while now but it looks perfect so am going ahead with it, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 What ecu are you going to use Tony? Are you sticking with the AEM or going for a Motec? Personally I think the Motec is the better option, but I think the AEM is certainly improving and is only going to get better. Either way I couldn't afford to a new ECU so I'm sticking with the AEM, which to be honest, is more than capable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 Great job Tony. Have been thinking about using the spare fuse holders in the fuse box for a while now but it looks perfect so am going ahead with it, cheers I'll see if I can find the part number for the connector for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 Who are you using for the ceramic coating you mentioned earlier in the thread ? I need to find out whether you can powdercoat on top of said coating. I'm using a company in Didcot called Zircotec. http://www.zircotec.com Cheers, Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Personally I think the Motec is the better option, but I think the AEM is certainly improving and is only going to get better. Either way I couldn't afford to a new ECU so I'm sticking with the AEM, which to be honest, is more than capable. Tony get the latest firmware on there v1.19e i think, i not had any issues with mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 1, 2007 Author Share Posted April 1, 2007 Well I finally got the last bit of fabrication work done this week. As I'm getting it all ceramic coated, I wanted to make 100% sure that it all fits and that there aren't any hidden issues. So I spent today fitting everything together on the turbo side.... and I'm pleased to say, after a little bit of tidying up, it's all good! Anyway, here's a few pics of how it's going to look when it's all complete:- I then started to make up and test fit the PCV hoses:- I then started to make up the oil lines for the turbo's. I got both the feed lines made up, and one of the returns, but didn't get any pics. I'll get them when I'm assembling it for the final time in 2 weeks time. Other things I managed to do, was to remove the spare water fitting on the water pump and fill the hole with a 10mm core plug, similar to that which I used on the water elbow before. I used an 8mm core plug on the spare T on the water tube at the back of the engine. So that's tidied that up quite nicely. Anyway, after that, time was cracking on, so I then had to completely strip all the manifolds and pipework, so they can be taken to Zircotec in Didcot tomorrow to be coated. It should take 5 working days to do, and for a 2" pipe costs £35 for every 12"'s. Roughly costing it out, it should come to about £450 or so. I'm then going to wrap it in exhaust wrap to give it the full belts and braces. (It's going to get REAL hot under the hood) Anyway, so that was my day. I'll let you all know how I get on with this ceramic coating in a couple of weeks time. Not long now though until she'll be ready for mapping....that's if Dan ever get's back to me. Hopefully just in time for Summer!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted April 1, 2007 Share Posted April 1, 2007 Looking very good, not long now:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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