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Blitz twin turbo installation


TLicense

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OK, I've got a little time as the car is in the fab shop, so I figured I'd post up details of my fuel kit.

It's as follows:-

 

2 x Walbro 255 lph fuel pumps

2 x Jubilee clips

2 x 0.5m Startlight -6 hose

2 x -6 straight hose fittings

1 x -6 to -8 Y piece

1 x -8 to -8 male-male adaptor

1 x WOTM triple pump hanger (heavily modified)

1 x -8 banjo fitting

1 x -8 banjo bolt

2 x 3/4 copper washers

1 x -8 90degree hose fitting

3.04m -8 Aeroquip hose

1 x -8 straight hose fitting

1 x -8 dry break socket

1 x -8 dry break 45 degree plug (modified to about 30 degrees)

1 x -8 to -10 male to male adaptor

1 x aeromotive highe flow fuel filter

1 x -10 to -10 male to male adaptor

1 x -10 to -8 female to female adaptor

1 x -8 dry break plug

1 x -8 dry break socket

1 x -6 to -8 Y piece

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

1 x -6 45 degree hose fitting

0.35m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

0.92m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting

2 x -6 to -10 male to male adaptors

2 x o'rings

1 x PHR fuel rail

6 x Siemens Deka 870cc injectors

1 x o'ring

1 x -10 to -6 hale to male adaptor

1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting

0.68m -6 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x -6 blanking plug

2 x o'rings

1 x Aeromotive FPR (13109)

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x o'ring

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

3.48m 06 Aeroquip hose

1 x -6 banjo hose fitting

1 x -6 banjo bolt

2 x 1/2" copper washers

1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor

1 x -6 straight hose fitting

0.3m -6 Startlight hose

1 x -6 banjo bolt

2 x 1/2" copper washers

1 x -6 banjo hose fitting

0.25m -6 Startlight hose

1 x jubilee clip

 

The majority of fittings, I bought from http://www.thinkauto.com but some were bought from Earls, simply because they're 5 minutes from where I work, and I could get parts the same day. At some point I'll try to post up part numbers, and do a total quantities list.

 

Cheers,

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  • 2 weeks later...
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OK so the car is at the fabricators, and they have finally started working on the car.

They asked me to call in so I could see everything while it was still just tacked together to see if I was happy with the work they had done. I've asked them to make a few asjustments, but on the whole it looks pretty encouraging. They should be done by the middle of next week. I managed to get a few pics (sorry for the blurriness of the first one!)

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Here you can see the downpipe from the front turbo snaking under the rear turbo. There isn't enough space for it to run parrallel to the block:-

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For the downpipe, they've welded a Y-piece above the join for the exhaust This is where both downpipes from the turbo's join together. The downpipe from the rear turbo, runs over the top of the downpipe for the front turbo. This brings it pretty close to the brake master cylinder. Too close for my liking. They're going to see if they can create more space. If not I'm going to make a heat shield up:-

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I've also asked them to create a "balance bar" which joins the two "collector" parts of the turbo manifolds together. Obviously being part of the exhaust manifold, they will be subjected to a lot of heat, so I asked for the balance bar to have a flexible section to cope with thermal expansion. They've created a sliding join, which has a labyrinth seal to stop the exhaust gases escaping. The only downside to this is, because the two parts of the pipe are interlocked together, both front and rear manifolds now have to be removed together, and then split. You can see how tight it all is, as this is the best shot I could get of where the balance bar joins into the front manifold:-

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Here's a pic of the where the balance bar joins the rear collector. You can also see the -10 fitting for the oil return. Unfortunately this now fouls the balance bar, (Hence why the cartridge is currently rotated so that it's not vertical) so I'm going to have to get one of these with a 30 or 45 degree bend in to be able to rotate this back to how it should be:-

image

 

I've asked them to move the filter so that it's straighter to car-line, and also put a slight downwards bend to the pipes so that it easily clears the bonnet. They're going to make a stay that come off of the two stock fixings to the left of this picture (just in front of the strut towe):-

image

 

Other than that, I'm going on monday to remove the wheel and inner arch for them, so that they can fit a tube from the IC and out of the stock hole in the wing into the engine bay which will also have the B.O.V. mounted to (inside the inner arch). This will then have a Y fitting that will connect to both turbo's.

They're also fabricating a couple of turbo stays. I was hoping they would be able to fit these to the stock locations on the engine block, and then bolt to a couple of welded on studs to the bottom of the collector part of each manifold, but with the wastegate tubing in, it looks doubtfull that there will be sufficient space. So they're going to look at making one for the front turbo that is mounted off of either the strut tower, or the engine hook mounts, and the rear one will possibly come off the manifold studs. We'll see what it ends up looking like on that one....

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Tony, you have so much patience my friend. My personal opinion about the fabrication, is that heat will create a lot of problems on brakes and valve covers. Watching your pics, i'm now 100% sure that the blitz kit was a gimmick from the blitz factory. If it wasn't they would have supplied all the parts to make it a kit. But now with just 2 manifolds, 2 gates and blowers, it's just basically not worth anything. I thing your cost will be a lot higher at the end than buying a new hks twin kit and installing two big ones 3037s on. On the other hand you will see that the twin kits on repairs, they are a bitch, too many things to take out. What if the gasket of the rear gate needs to be changed, or the blower's gasket. Good luck from the bottom of my heart. But when you want big, better go with an HKS SPL kit and you're done, install is 2 hours max, and piping is a breeze and ready for you. Simple, big, and easy to install. Good luck again.

Cheers

Dimitri

 

P.S. don't get me wrong i love the complexity looks of it, it's just the repair part that i hate, and since you are doing it all by yourself, man, you're gonna have some fun. I hope your buddies bring the beer and food, because every repair will take a few get togethers to be fixed.

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Dimitri,

I share the same concerns over the heat. Hence why I mentioned making up some heat shields, and having everything ceramic coated (heat-shields as well, although this will happen at a slightly later date)

I also agree about Blitz making this kit as a bit of a gimmick. The total lack of support is dissapointing to say the least, and given the choice of buying this kit at the RRP, or the HKS kit, I would recommend the HKS, as there is a lot less hassle involved.

However, that said, I don't think it's quite as bad as the picture you've painted. Whilst it's not going to be as easy as a single to strip it down, I can and have (many times over the last 6 months!) removed the manifolds with turbo's and wastegates attached in about 10 minutes flat. Even with all the pipework on there, I could still strip it all down in a lot less than an hour. The wastegates are easily accesable from under the car, so there's no problems there either.

I'm trying to make the installation as robust as possible, so hopefully there will be little need to strip it all down. It's making sure that nothing's going to be a problem, or if it could be, having a plan of action in advance that has caused the whole project to take so long.

Thanks for your comments though, it's good to take on board :thumbs:

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I understand what you are saying Tony, it's just what i'm seeing from experience. After 5,000miles the nuts will not be as easy to take off. Heat makes wonders man. Ceramic coating on the other side doesn't really do anything. You will see it yourself. The only thing it does, is just look good when new and very ugly after 6 months of running and temps. You will see things in the future.

 

Best in terms of power and easiest to install kit ever is the T51 kit, in my opinion. The vband never have any leaks and they just are easy to install and uninstall. If you were doing that for a living you would have the same opinion with the people that work in my shop. In a few words they say "Death to the twin kits". It's such a pain to repair, and you cut your hands and then the balance pipe leaks, etc. etc., then the gate gaskets blow, forget it. Vband wastegates and v bands turbos, never leak. For your own shake though make sure you heat wrap the down pipes and put some expensive blankets on the turbos(like the BL ones), of course when you take them out they starting to disintegrate, but while on, they do the job. Since your steering wheel is on the right, you will feel the heat in the summer, you will see. GOOD LUCK.

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I've got a CW side mount. I'm going to see how it copes, and if it's a problem, then I'll look at getting a FMIC. I don't want the comprimises of the FMIC, so figured I'd give the SMIC a chance....

 

Good lord that's going to be a test and a half for the poor thing :scare:

 

Although it may shatter some myths... :thumbs:

 

-Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well only 5 and a bit weeks late, I've finally got the car back! :)

 

Whilst I'm very happy with the quality of the welds etc. There are a few little bits here and there that I'm going to get them to look at, but overall nothing major.

To be fair, it's a real nightmare job, and I think they've done as well as can be expected. I'll just have to give it a bit of TLC and she'll be right!

 

Anyway, here are a few pics, excuse the odd coupling that isn't fitted right. I'm still waiting on a set of mikalor's to arrive. (And better couplings!):-

 

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Right, now that they've got all that lot on there, the first thing I've got to do is strip it all back off to get it ceramic coated. It never ends! :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did a bit more on the car today.

 

After advice from Dimitri, I've decided to have the injector collets welded into the inlet runners. This meant having to remove all of the inlet side. A bit of a pain, but it only took an hour or so.

I also identified a couple of other issues with the recently fabricated pipework.

Namely the rear turbo to IC pipe doesn't line up correctly with the turbo outlet:-

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And the pipe then goes VERY close to the downpipe from the front turbo:-

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But there's plenty of space to do something to sort it out, so I'll get onto the fabricators first thing Monday.

 

I also received the other day a set of camcovers from Supradibbs with -10 PCV fittings, so I had a trial fit of these:-

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Here you can see the exhaust cam cover PCV fitting. Although in this pic it is lining up with the rear turbo PCV inlet, I'm actually going to have the inlet cam PCV go to the rear turbo (it means just running a 180 degree fitting and hacing the hose go over the rengine, not ideal but the tidiest route I think) and then have a 90 degree fitting on the exhaust cam cover and the hose going to the front turbo inlet.

 

I've got a carbon spark plug cover appearing at some point, which I think will look great with it. I'm also going to fit some black AN fittings rather than the red and blue.

 

I've started to look at where I'm going to put the feed from the charcoal cannister.

I think I'll feed it just in front of the PCV fitting on the inlet to the rear turbo. What do you guys think?

image

 

Here's a pic of how it's lining itself up so far. Overall I'm quite pleased!

image

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Nice build, i like the powdercoated cam covers, very intrested to see how this performs compared to a single.

 

Cheers,

 

They're not powdercoated though, just painted. My understanding is that it will be a lot more progressive.

Once it's finished, I'll take you out for a spin and vice versa?

 

I've always been a fan of black cam covers myself - good choice.

 

I think with a carbon spark plug cover they'll look great.

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