Lebsteif Posted April 13, 2007 Share Posted April 13, 2007 Stunning project!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supragold Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Such attention to detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 Nice job on the coating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted April 14, 2007 Share Posted April 14, 2007 It's a shame to go to all that trouble and then leave the head and bottom end standard..... (Just planting seeds for Tony all looking very nice though, very thorough) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Cheers for your support guys. Jesus it's been a hard day today though. I started off by deciding to finish off the injector resistor pack installation. As mentioned before to get around the fact that I don't have a Toyota plug to connect the resistor pack, I cut the stock one off of the stock resistor pack I'd bought and replaced it with a Deutsch Autosport connector. These are bloody good bits of kit, but need to be assembled correctly. I'd already done the plug on the reistor pack, but I had to assemble the socket that connected to the loom I was making to connect to the car. Before you start you need a crimping tool. These are usually ridiculously expensive. So if you decide to ever use Autosport connectors, it's probably best to beg/borrow/steal one :- Then there's the actual connectors that you need to attach the wires to. These are about 60p each:- The plug comes with a connector insertion and extraction tool:- If you look carefully at the connector, there's a cross hole at the bottom of where you insert a stripped wire. This is so you can see when the wire is fully inserted. You can use this to make sure that you don't strip too much insulation, but the wire is fully inserted:- Now set the crimp size selector to the size appropriate to the connector/wire that you want to crimp:- Open up the crimp tool:- Then insert the connector:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Insert the wire into the connector:- And close the tool. There are 8 little prongs the ratchet out into the connector, crimping it pefectly :- So inserting these into the plug is real easy. Using the insertion tool, feed it over the top of the wire, up to the back of the connector:- Deutsch connectors have the pin numebers on the front and back of the plug, so you can match up the numbers really easy. So then you just push it into the back of the plug!:- Job done!:- You can buy a rubber boot that will heat shrink onto the back of the plug/socket, but I'd forgotten to order them. So I sealed it using a combination of shrink wrap and insuating tape:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 I then wired in the loom using Hecklers fantastic guide that can be found here:- http://www.internetwork.org.uk/Injectors/Injectors.htm The only difference was that I found that 4 of my Black and orange wires were connected together just to the right of where you open up the loom. Literally they were all spliced together from stock. So I cut them at the splice point and connected all the wires to the left to the 6 black feeds from the resistor pack, and connected the single wire that they were originally spliced to to the single white feed:- I'm pretty sure that's the right thing to do. If anyone knows otherwise, shout out. Anyway so I then insulated it all back up and voila. Jobs a good 'un.:- The two wires you can see here that are cut but not connected to anything have continuity to the single feed I'm using. This is even with connector IJ1 disconnected. I'm assuming they're spliced in a little further down the loom, as the splice for the other wires was pretty chocka:- Anyway, so here it is all fitted:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 So then the pain began..... Making up the remaining hoses and fitting the turbo manifolds and downpipes. This has to have been the biggest pain of all so far. It all seemed to start off fairly easy. I'm using exhaust wrap as well as the ceramic coating on my exhaust manifolds and downpipes to reduce engine bay and inlet temps. The easiest way to assemble all the pipework for my kit is to start from the bottom. So we started off by wrapping up the downpipe:- Rather than use large jubilee clips to hold the wrap in place, it was recommended to me, that I should use lock wire instead. It looks a hell of a lot better:- So we then went and fitted that no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 14, 2007 Author Share Posted April 14, 2007 Now I'll hold my hands up and say all of this is my doing. A lot of the joins in the pipework are slip joints where one pipe slides into the other. I'd forgotten to mark off where zircotec should/should not ceramic coat on the balance bar between the two manifolds. The build up of ceramic material meant the pipe that should slip into the other was too big now. So we had to sand it all back in this area. This stuff is pretty tough believe me! I spent about an hour getting the two manifolds to join back together. Once in though, I would have to say it lookds pretty bloody good :- So now that I was able to mount the manifolds together, I could then mount the turbo's and then finish making up the oil feeds. I must have had the manifolds on and off 20 times. The upshot after all that is the oil return from the rear turbo is still to short. ARRGHGHGH!!! I was starting to loose it at this point so I figured I'd leave that till tomorrow. So I went on to fitting the feeds to the wastegates. Another 20 on and offs of the manifold later, and finally I've got the lengths and the fittings sorted:- However before doing the final fit on this, I needed to sort out the wastegate return pipe. I don't really like screamer pipes, so I've had this made so that it feeds back into the exhaust. The return pipe is made in two sections that slip into each other that connect back to the downpipe. Where they slip into each other I needed to make up a clamp. I bought what I was told would easily do the job, which was a make it yourself jubilee clip. They were absolute rubbish. They only took about 20 minutes each to make up, and then didn't have the clamping force to seal the pipes. I'm going to have to sack them off and sort out some kind of pipe clamp. So that brought an end to todays proceedings. Roll on tomorrow..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 Shame you couldn't log a before and after the ceramic coating it would have been interesting to see the difference. I have had to remoce ceramic coating in the past as well, i agree about it being really tough stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uk-rich Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 I have had to remoce ceramic coating in the past as well, i agree about it being really tough stuff are you moaning col Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 are you moaning col No at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted April 15, 2007 Share Posted April 15, 2007 You can get stainless steel ty wraps for the wrap on the manifold from cooltek about £9 a bag of 10 ,they work well and look a bit better than locking wire-PM me if you need some and I will send you a pack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblitz Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 hi have the same kit same problems was fitted 2years ago now have it stripped out and refitting it myself . . could do with your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 21, 2007 Author Share Posted April 21, 2007 I'll pm my phone no. You can give me a call and I'll offer any advice I can. Driveability wise, how did you find it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblitz Posted April 21, 2007 Share Posted April 21, 2007 email me your number on [email protected] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jive Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Just spent yesterday evening and this morning reading through this thread from start to finish. Top work Tony - fantastic write up and for those with turbos will be an invaluable resource. How long do you estimate till it's back on the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 Well it's taken 3 weeks short of a year, and after a final, non-stop, 25 hour marathon session, I've finally finished the installation. Boy did we have some issues though. It's not been a difficult day for sure. Unfrotunately it meant I didn't get as many pics as I would have liked. The plan was simple. Do the final fit on for the manifolds, hoses, turbo's, everything! I started mid-day yesterday, Fitted the manifold, with the wastegate as above. However as I bolted the manifols up to the block, I noticed that the gasket wasn't pinching up under one of the nuts. That's odd I thought, it must be binding on something. It looked like the fwd wastegate was either touching the engine mount, or it was bloody close to it, so I took it apart and rotated the top around 1 hole pattern so that it cleared. Just a note, when taking these apart, be very carefull. It's all sprung together, and if I hadn't had been used a couple of very long bolts to take out the pre-load, it looked like it was wanting to take my head off. Anyway, so re-fitted that, only to find the gasket still not pinching up. So figured it must be binding on the studs. So strip the manifold back off, and grind the studs down. Re-fit the manifold. Still holding off, just under this one nut. After a large amount of fitting and removal, it turned out that the manifold flange was warped. Not good. Luckily though I do have access to a workshop, so I stripped the wastegates off, and all the exhaust wrap, set it all up on a mill, and proceed to spend the next 4 hours skimming the flanges flat. (These manifolds really are the most awkward things in the world to hold on a mill - no really!) So by now we're into the very small hours. I then proceed to start re-fitting everything. The way to fit this kit is from the exhaust up. So first of all, the downpipe and the wastegate returns:- Then the manifolds. You can see how quickly the exhaust wrap gets grubby looking. Especially when the manifold has been on and off about 50 times. :- Next the turbo's. The easiest way to fit these was to put the bolts in that hold them onto the manifold, but leave them loose. Then fit the downpipes and with the turbo's loose, do the bolts up to the downpipes, then do the bolts up for the turbo's. Not forgetting to fit the gaskets of course Here's a pic of the front turbo. I'd decided to use mikalor clamps to hold all the couplings together. The blue silicon couplings are temporary measures whilst I wait 10 week for some nice black hoses to come in. :- win%20Installation%202/IMG_2217_800x533.jpg[/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 In that pic you can also just make out the feed for the front wastegate. To be honest the position of this isn't the best. It's fairly close to the fan. However if you look from above, it clears the fan. Even if you bend the fan back a good amount (as it would in normal operation):- Here you can just make out the feed for the rear wastegate. It's quite important to make sure that the feed doesn't come into contact with the steering column of the downpipe (which is a very difficult thing to achieve - believe me!) :- Here you can see where the feed from the turbo's to the CW intercooler, goes through the stock hole in the wing. :- Here you can just see the feed from the charcoal cannister into the inlet manifold. (My contribution to saving the planet ) :- With that all done I had a few tidying jobs to do. First of all was the fuel hoses. My lines are too big to fit into the stock cover, so during the week, I've been making up some simple brackets out of carbon that use the stock cover mounting points. I'm still using the stock cover to shield the brake lines, and these just protrude out to the side. Sorry I didn't get a pic of them in situ, but I'm sure you get the idea. If anyone wants some pics, I'll get some when I get a chance:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted April 22, 2007 Author Share Posted April 22, 2007 I had planned, and still plan to in the future, make a shield in carbon to go around the brake lines and get it ceramic coated. However, in the mean-time I just wrapped them in some spare exhaust wrap:- And with that, the installation is pretty much complete! I also did a few tidy up/finishing jobs, like checking that the fuel pumps worked and that it wouldn't just blow up. (Fire extinguisher at the ready, and lots of bottom clenching involved there I can tell you! ) I also decided to fit the UK headlights that I'd bought sometime last year. WOW what a difference they make! J-spec:- UK:- Half finished:- Job done:- And with that, the mechanical installation of everything is complete! Yay!:- There's a couple of 5 minute things to do. I've got to fit the dump valve when the circlip, o-ring and hoses arrive. I'm also going to try fitting a TRD stut brace and fit a couple of turbo supports off of it. But I'm not 100% sure the brace will clear the turbo's so that remains to be seen. I've also got some new volks turning up sometime this week, which I'll fit. Tomorrow I'm going to do a full fluid change, ready for Dan to come and put a basemap on it on Wednesday, with a mind to sticking it on the rollers a week later for the final map. I'll post up how I get on, and also post reliability and driveability updates in the coming weeks. Many thanks to all those who have helped, and the many kind words I've received. Hopefully in about a weeks time or so I'll be able to say that it was all worth it. I'd also like to give special thanks to my Dad, Geoff. Without him, this really would have been impossible. Thanks matey. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Well done Tony, have loved reading this thread, good luck with mapping:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supragold Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Well done Tony, have loved reading this thread, good luck with mapping:) Definately one of the best build threads I've read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lebsteif Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 An amazing installation, very detailed and a lot of photo;s. A work of art! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 Well done Tony great job. I hope they are exactly what you're after given all the time and effort you've put into them. Looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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