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Blitz twin turbo installation


TLicense

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Update to this.....

 

Here's a few pics showing the differences between the 8.11 and 6.11 turbine housings....

 

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8.11 housing:-

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The 6.11 housing with the calipers still set to the measurement of the 8.11 housing. It was about 8mm smaller:-

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Here's some pics of the exhaust wheel after being on the car for 4 months and covering about 5K miles.:-

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So fast forward a couple of weeks up to early last week. I re-fitted the boost control solenoid (haven't got any pics of this set-up, and to be honest it looks bloody messy at the moment so I'll probably keep that hidden away! ;) ). With the help of a trusty assistant in the form of Ryan G, we then found that I had a massive boost leak. Basically a hose from the pipework from the turbo's to the intercooler had popped off. Doh! It had probably been like that since day one. Double doh!!! Well that will teach me to be all arrogant and disbelieve that I'd have made any mistakes. If things don't got right, always double check everything from start to finish.

Anyway, embarrassing mistakes aside, we then started to build genuine boost at last! :nana:

We soon managed to get it up to 1 bar, and 1.2 soon followed.

As Ryan is now mapping my car, he soon managed to get it so it was absolutely flying! Then we hit a problem. Last run of the day, and it started to misfire. ARRGGGGHHHH!!!!!

Our initial thoughts were the plugs were breaking down. So I changed those to no avail. Then with some input from Wez, we discovered that my coil dwell settings from the original map, were all over the place. So we set them correctly and tried again. This time it was a result!! It was back to pulling like a train again. :)

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That led us to today.

 

We just spent an afternoon at Surrey Rolling Road, where at 1.4 bar boost, it made......

 

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:):):):):)

 

We had a bit of a problem though with a suspected boost leak. As you can see from the bottom graph, it appears to only be making 1.4 bar boost from about 6250rpm onwards. So this led us on a bit of a fault finding mission, but after a very quick look (dyno time is epensive when you're not actually dyno-ing!) we were struggling to find anything. We figured that we'd call it a day there and try pressurising the system to see if we can find any leaks. Then on the way home, it was a completely different story. 1.4 bar boost at 5000rpm. Bit strange.

Obviously 5000rpm is a bit laggy compared to modern day singles, but I'm quite happy with the result, and seeing as we experienced a little scary loss of traction during a heavy pull in 6th gear (Yes 6th gear) whilst on the way home, I think this is more than enough for me to get by with. Certainly over the winter anyways! ;)

 

So that's pretty much it.

 

How to strip of the stock J-spec turbo's, and fit much bigger ones. Or another way of putting it, how to strip out your bank account and make your car go fast!

 

Many thanks to all that have helped and contributed over the last 18 month's or so that this has been running. In particular to my Dad who has put endless hours into this, and also to Ryan G, without whome we would still be scratching our heads trying to work out why the car wouldn't run.

 

Cheers all. :)

 

Tony

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  • 2 months later...

I find this thread truly amazing in its detail and the journal you have kept. I have been a supra owner over here in the US for years, and I write many tech articles (see my web page) and I havnt seen such a detailed step-by-step journal like this before. I also envy your garage/tool set up~!

 

I have a question. I have just completed my Hybrid CT-12 USDM Turbo package. It will use Garrett GT28 non-ball bearing turbos. It will also be sequential. The reason for this post is that I wanted to know more about how you installed the water lines. Either I missed it, or you didnt go into that detail. I saw that you plugged the 2 water lines at the neck, but I could see where you eventually got your water supply for the turbo. Unless of course your not using them. Also, where you using 2 separate oil/return/feed lines?

 

Sorry for dredging up a older post, but I did get carried away reading every page~!

 

Stu Hagen

http://www.97supraturbo.com

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I find this thread truly amazing in its detail and the journal you have kept. I have been a supra owner over here in the US for years, and I write many tech articles (see my web page) and I havnt seen such a detailed step-by-step journal like this before. I also envy your garage/tool set up~!

 

I have a question. I have just completed my Hybrid CT-12 USDM Turbo package. It will use Garrett GT28 non-ball bearing turbos. It will also be sequential. The reason for this post is that I wanted to know more about how you installed the water lines. Either I missed it, or you didnt go into that detail. I saw that you plugged the 2 water lines at the neck, but I could see where you eventually got your water supply for the turbo. Unless of course your not using them. Also, where you using 2 separate oil/return/feed lines?

 

Sorry for dredging up a older post, but I did get carried away reading every page~!

 

Stu Hagen

www.97supraturbo.com

 

Hello Stu,

 

First off, nice website! Also well done on the work you've done on the stock twins. Makes for a pretty cool set-up.

 

My turbo's are only oil cooled, so as you mention I plugged the water lines at the neck, and also plugged the feed from the water hose that runs around the back of the block.

 

For oil feeds, I used the two feeds on the side of the block that supply the stock twins, and then used the stock return.

 

A caveat here that I've just discovered myself, (:taped:) you shouldn't use rubber nitrile braided hose for the turbo oil feeds. It can't cope with the heat soak from the turbo's, so over time will perish and then leak. (It's quite bizaare to just see oil appearing through the braid!) You need to use higher temperature rated teflon hose, preferably with a heat wrap / flame cover.

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  • 5 months later...

Hi

 

Congratulations for your time to post these nice Thread.

 

Today I have intalled my fuel pumps of my single and I turn the ignition off and they still running I notice int these pic you put the red wires but I put one red of the pump to the blue stock wire and black wire pump to the black wire stock connector, why you put the 2 red wires ?

 

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Because they're both 12 volt power feeds. 1 to each pump. My ground is connected external to this connector, through the pump hanger and then to a good ground on the chassis:-

 

Here's how the ground wires were fixed. Don't worry the bolts aren't annodised so they will conduct fine. (I measured 1.6ohms from the power supply, through each pump and back to the hanger). I used nordlock anti-vibration washers under the ground wire bolts to prevent them from ever vibrating loose:-

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By doing it this way, each side of the stock connector is only seeing one pumps worth of current. If you connect both pumps through the stock connector then it's rumoured to end up getting quite hot.... not good in the fuel tank!

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  • 2 years later...

Thought I would throw this in as well. I re-wired the stock fuel pump with 2 red wires as well. I actually "re-pinned" the stock plug all the way to the harness in the trunk. I also did both in red so I knew they were the +. I also ran a ground to the trunk area as he did. I did however mark the plug with a Blue marker so I new which pump was on the OEM wiring run. I have 2 OEM 055 stock pumps now. One is triggered by the FPECU when the car hits 4000rpms, the 2nd pump then comes on line.

 

(PS I noted I used FPIG for sealing the ground Lug. That is actually not recomended. Use a LockTite fuel resistant compound instead.)

 

http://www.97supraturbo.com/Fuel%20Pump%20upgrade/Stu%20Pump-2.JPG

 

http://www.97supraturbo.com/Fuel%20Pump%20upgrade/Stu%20Pump.jpg

 

Stu

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