Chris Wilson Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 Someone sent me some Eagle rods to put in a Nissan RB26 engine (Skyline GTR) I am building dor them. The damned things were 5 thou out of round on the big end bore, (a massive amount, total scrap as is), the weights varied wildly, and the little ends looked like they'd been honed with a blunt rat tailed file, and were also out on size (too big on some, too small on others...). A bargain was the buyers claim. Hah, some bargain, expensive paperweights without extensive machining. Even the rod bolts they come with look a bit suspect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I almost bought a set of these. So obviously not reccomended then Chris? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 23, 2006 Author Share Posted April 23, 2006 You get what you pay for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 Not being an engine guru meself (you'd never have guessed, right?) but I've only ever heard bad things about Eagle rods - iirc there were a few UK GT4s having major issues with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 I thought about these but read Dustys review on MVP and thought twice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terawua Posted April 23, 2006 Share Posted April 23, 2006 terry used these in his supra.... look.... http://www.supravvti.com/specifications_engine.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 and 2 others. Absolutely perfect. shrug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 oh and the problem in the US is down to rod bolt selection I believe, which we have changed. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 24, 2006 Author Share Posted April 24, 2006 I am sure it's a quality control issue, but the big end sizes were a MILE out, if just fitted they would have knocked the shells out, or spun them, in no time. The guy who fetched them for me to use has now heard they are manufactured in China... How true that is i don't know, but even Chinese lathes have better tolerances Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 We used to machine capped bearing housing's for textile machinery dont know if you knew them Chris (Rieter-Scragg in Macclesfield) and the way these were machined was the two mating faces were milled seperately with dowel pin locations and bolt holes then they were bolted together then bored out no ovality issues whatsoever, are these rods heat treated in any way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 The only way to bore a rod big end (or a main journal or cam journal for that matter) is to line-bore it with the cap in place. Any heat treatment would be done way beforehand. If someone has separated the rod and cap and then re-assembled them it can make it look as if the bore is out of spec. I got a severe ticking off from our metrology department for doing this on a set of newly recieved rods, long ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 What I was trying to say about the heat treatment... if the rods are heat treated before machining (as they should be) and not stress relieved properly, then machined and the caps then released they will pop out of tolerance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 24, 2006 Share Posted April 24, 2006 True, but you cannot heat treat them after finish machining, and the line boring operation should only remove a tiny amount of material. Maybe 0.5mm or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.