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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Misfire & now no start


GazzaGSi

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My car developed a misfire acouple of days ago. If I accelerated gently the car would be ok but as soon as you accelerate alittle more sharply it would miss a beat and stutter.

 

Its booked in the garage for tomorrow morning for new plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm and why its there im having all the fluids changed.

 

Thing is though it wont start now. Battery etc is fine, it wants to start but it just seems as though there is either no fuel getting to it or no spark.

 

Any ideas to get me to the garage and start the car as its also having its MOT once the new parts are fitted.

 

Thanks

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Had the same problem last year,new dizzy,leads,plugs and rotor sorted it.Is the fuel pump priming?Have you got spark?Is the timing right i.e have you done a timeing belt change lately(happend to me as i did not nip the dizzy cap up hard enough after setting the timing.)

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What do you mean by is the fuel pump priming up? Should I hear it? Like a buzzing noise?

 

Whats the best way to test to see if you have a spark?

 

The timing belt was done at 121,000KM's (sticker on the cam cover) Cars now covered 136,000km's.

 

I removed the dizzy acouple of days ago to give the tips abit of a clean. Perhaps I need to nip it abit more - just for it to start. At least this may get me to the garage in the morning.

 

Thanks

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I am not talking about the 3 bolts that holds the actual platic dizzy cap on to the bracket,I'm talking about the 12mm nut that holds it on to the engine.This is just a long shot mate,but as I said it happend to me and it may be worth checking.My money is on new plugs,dizzy and leads.Hard to do a diagnosis via the web mate.

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Right, I am getting no buzz/noise nothing from the fuel pump when the keys are turned. Which could explain my current problem.

 

Can someone find out for me if theres buzzes when the keys are turned, just so I can nail something to being wrong with the car.

 

Thanks

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Mine makes an odd sound when the key is turned to ignition on. But I think mine needs replacing, besided I have no rear seats, etc to deaden the sound.

 

You should definetly hear something.

 

Check your pump, there is a FAQ on here for it somewhere, it is relatively easy to get at.

 

Let me know if you need any help!

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Just had the wheel out and the plate covering the fuel pump. Got in the car with the boot shut and turned the keys to where the dash lights come on - no sound. Turned it over once and released and I could hear a nice smooth buzz so I assume the pump is fine? The noise didnt seem to stutter or nothing.

 

However, I have just had the dizzy cap off and the center tip seems knackered and I do not think it is connecting to the rotar arm correctly. It is black and the spring behind the tip is also shot - it almost fell out when I removed the cap. Would this still cause the car to miss while driving?

 

Hopefully it is this as I have a new one waiting at the garage for my service. Just a shame I cant get there!

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Sorry bud, I think you miss read. I actually have not got my new parts fitted yet. I had it booked in for them to be fitted but couldnt get the car there.

 

On a plus side, I picked up the bits today and fitted the new dizzy cap. It started first time but still get the miss when the throttle is down.

 

I took it out for a 10 minute drive and will let it cool down to see if it will start from cold. Perhaps I was just lucky with it starting with the new dizzy.

 

Will take it to the garage (if it starts) tomorrow to have the new plugs and leads fitted.

 

Can something along the lines of the plugs/leads/dizzy just stop working correctly to cause my problem or should I be looking somewhere else too?

 

Fuel pump buzzes fine so I do not think it is that, any other suggestions?

 

Thanks

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Just thought I'd give abitof an update.

 

Still awaiting for my new leads as the ones originally sent out were wrong, no suprise there.

 

This morning I decided to get off my arse as it obviously isnt going to fix itself and stripped it down so I now have access to do the leads and plugs. Removed the air intake pipe, disconnected the vacum hoses/AICV and TPS. Then removed the bracket that holds the o2 sensor leads on which gave me access to the 4 bolts which hold the throttle chamber on. Removed these and the throttle chamber can now slide forward giving me access to the plugs/leads.

 

The worse part of the job was the 4 alan key bolts at the back of the engne. These were very tight!!

 

So, once I have received my new leads, gapped the plugs (anybody know the gap for N/A plugs? I believe it is 0.8 but could anyone confirm?) and fitted them, I will report back to let you know the outcome.

 

Cheers

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