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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Fuel smell


Dash Rendar

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36psi static is the accepted value. Mine measured that with a stock FPR on. -Ian

 

It's 33-40psi according to the Toyota service manual. Bit of a range! I always thought it was 40 as that's what I was told when I asked ages ago, but that's the top end of the range. That's static pressure, i.e. bridge the FP and +B terminals in the diagnostics port and turn the ignition on, but don't start the engine.

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AAAAARGH!! It stinks again! Checked the FSE and there's no fuel leak. Now it's coming out the other end, at the fuel rail!! I'm so p1ssed off now.

 

:(

 

Is it the hose that's leaking or the fitting? When I fitted my Aeromotive reg the new O ring that seals the fitting into the rail had a slight chunk out of it which I didn't notice at the time. That caused a slight leak.

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My first guess is that it's the pressure. It was pouring out of one end and now that's sorted, it's started leaking out the other... Although that took a day or so to develop.

 

I'll have a look at the fuel pressure tomorrow (thanks Homer) and hopefully that will be the end of it.

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Thanks to Homer, I now know that my fuel pressure was set to 66psi, so it's no wonder it was leaking out of every corner!!

 

After adjusting it back down to 36psi, we started her up and it was extremely lumpy. Homer suggested that the ECU might need a reset, so we disconnected the battery for a minute and then tried again... And it was so smooth!!

 

I'm well chuffed. Give that man a cigarre!

 

One slightly worrying turn of events... When I started the car again half an hour later, it was once again very lumpy and when I gave it some gas, it didn't want to play ball at all and started lurching a bit. But after a couple of minutes, it sorted itself out again.

 

I'm hoping it will behave when I start her up after work again later.

 

I'll hope to update the thread, but my Internet connection at home appears to have died and I'm not sure how permanent it is! Fecking NTL.

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No problem mate.

 

The ECU does take a little while to 'learn', as you're only a couple of miles from work I don't think it would of had enough time to sort itself out. 10-20 miles of driving should do the trick, but best to stay off boost if its running 'lumpy'. If it continues then I'd get it booked into Pheonix for a check over.

 

Don't forget to cable tie that vacume pipe, we don't want to have another Jake style meltdown. (The thing was only just about connected!)

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Are you like, the LEAST lucky person ever?

 

I believe I am.

 

Did I mention that my house bunny died last week?

 

And, the house at the end of the street, for some reason, didn't have gas central heating. So the owner phoned up the gas board last week, and they came to connect her up. Turns out they needed to connect to the pipes under my driveway, so they dug up the whole drive... Without contacting me about it first! (Fortunately, they put it back again, but I was without parking for a week.)

 

This year, so far, has been completely crap.

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It never ceases to amaze me how often (and easily) people fall for these marketing tricks and swap perfectly functional OEM parts for inferior, overpriced aftermarket 'performance' replacements.

 

If the poorly-designed and unwarranted (sorry "race use only!") part doesn't fail prematurely, it's the fitting or disturbance of a nice balance that does the trick.

 

Then the car degenerates within months and is quickly sold to another 'performance' enthusiast who is even more happy because he got the car with 'mods' already done.

 

The less they know, the more they fall for the hype. Blessem.:D

 

...and don't get me started on wheel bearings going prematurely after 'phat' wheelz are used.

etc etc etc

 

(yeah yeah yeah, I'm a killjoy, I know http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/victor_mildrew.jpg)

 

I don't even bother to update the 'useless mods' pages on my site any more. What's the :search: point?

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