Ian C Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Or five After a funny creaking noise turned into a cracked stud that I was lucky to find early, I thought (what with 600bhp being on tap these days) I would swap all my rear wheel studs. No sense messing about especially as the studs are under £2 each. I'm assuming you can get your rear hub to look like pic 1. The hardest bit is taking the old studs out, as this can involve some clobbering which is really bad for your expensive wheel bearing. In order to avoid this clobbering I got myself a cheapo ball joint remover of a specific design from Halfords... (pic 2). Locate the tool as shown in pic 3. If it's the same tool as I got it will fit although it's close It also has to go in at this exact point, it won't fit any other way. Smaller ball joint tools may. The two prongs go either side of the back of the wheel stud, the single prong as square on the nose of the stud as possible. Tighten it up so that it's got a good grip, but before the prong starts to work it's way off the stud nose (pic 4) Now that all the tension is taken up, we can shock the stud out a bit. Using a hammer (pic 5), tap the tip of the prong. It doesn't have to be, and indeed shouldn't be, a big hit - wrist action only You'll find the stud moves quite effectively - it may go so far as to make the BJ seperator lose it's grip and fall off. Once the stud is loose, winkle it out via the route shown in pics 6, 7, 8, and 9. Get a new shiny stud in the same way (pic 10) and locate it in the hole. To relocate the wheel stud firmly and fully, refit your brake disc and get a wheel nut (a spare one would be ideal but you can use your regular one). Wind on the wheel nut (pic 11) and just before it's flush with the brake disc, squirt on a bit of WD40 to lubricate the surface. Try not to get any on the disc's friction area though (pic 12). Now just lock up the hub. I didn't use the handbrake as the disc wasn't really on properly, instead I used a jack handle to wedge it for doing up (pic 13) and undoing (pic 14) the nut again. You should now have wound in the stud to the point in pic 15. Now do the other four -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 That's a great set of photos. You don't really need to read the text, the pics make it so clear. Thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 The hardest bit is taking the old studs out, as this can involve some clobbering which is really bad for your expensive wheel bearing. In order to avoid this clobbering I got myself a cheapo ball joint remover of a specific design from Halfords...-Ian Do I get the credit for this idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 8, 2006 Author Share Posted March 8, 2006 I think you do I remembered you using a BJ seperator to wind the studs out but I found that didn't work for me, the stud nose kept deforming and the tool would slip off - so instead I used it to take up all the slack and just twatted it -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 I was looking in the workshop manual supplied by CJ, the proper Toyota tool is almost exactly the same as the balljoint separator tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Great idea Ian. Think I might just take a grinder to the ball joint tool to make it grip better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Oh yeah I forgot that - I had to grind the two pronged bit out to make it fit over the base of the stud -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Thread revival So glad I just found this, need to replace my rear studs now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM Posted March 6, 2007 Share Posted March 6, 2007 Thanks Wez for finding this and thanks Ian, you "how to's" are always so clearly written Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1JZGTE Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Can I ask where the wheel stud tool can be purchased? Is there another name for it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Can I ask where the wheel stud tool can be purchased? Is there another name for it? I bought mine from halfords, normal ball joint separator for £15. I had to turn some washers out for it though as there was quite a bit of left/right play about the pin which was causing it to slip off the stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Missile Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 :rlol:winkle Technical term that. Wish I’d thought to look this up; I've done mine, but took the hammer approach. Great write up and fantastically written. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
merckx Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 £9.19 at Machine Mart http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht222-ball-joint-remover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Old skool thread revival! Would the same process be used for changing a front wheel stud? And am I right in thinking by reading the above that the wheel stud isn't screwed in and can just simply be removed by an encouraging 'whack'? Surprises me a bit that it's not bolted into something... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Old skool thread revival! Would the same process be used for changing a front wheel stud? And am I right in thinking by reading the above that the wheel stud isn't screwed in and can just simply be removed by an encouraging 'whack'? Surprises me a bit that it's not bolted into something... Correct, although whacking is not the best option, gently is better or use a pusher, I managed to do mine using various hub pullers etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Cheers Wez, I've got one of those ball joint splitters so I can use that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 This could be a silly question but do you need to remove the discs and brake calipers in order to do this? (suppose ill find out when I go to do it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra900bhp Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Yes mate just undo the bolts holding the carryer and pop disc off take a look in first post at pics It can be done with brake shoes still fitted just take time to guide the studs past the springs in and out make it easyier for your self so you don't push a stud out then you get it stuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 cheers, struggled to get the callipers off i'll try the above on friday. My wheel studs are slightly longer than OEM will this make it more difficult to manoeuvre them into place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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