Few Q's about RLTC

[heckler]

Ok,

 

RLTC uses the existing wheel speed sensors as inputs, compares front wheel speed to ther rears to determine wheel spin/slip. When RLTC engages - i'm assuming it stops one of the injectors? to redudce wheel spin?

 

Could someone clarify how its is connected up in the supe - i.e. inputs/outputs to what pins etc..

 

Ta very muchy

[terribleturner]

This is the guide im gonna use hopefully next week. Done it all several times in my head with the kit and sounds very easy

 

Doesn't matter which wheel sensors go to which colour wire as this can be configured on the set up

[Kev.O]

The link doesn't work!

[terribleturner]

The link doesn't work!

Works fine for me

can also be found on this page under the section Other Mods ( 3rd title down).

[Kev.O]

The link doesn't work!

Working fine for me aswell now!

[Ian C]

RLTC is more complex than comparing the back sensors with the front ones, as it detects turning forces as well, but that's pretty much it. You cut the injector output wires from the stock ECU and wire them into the RLTC unit and then it has full control over the injectors firing or not (important it's last in the chain if you have an E-manage Ultimate ) It has programmable cut patterns of the injectors, soft, medium, and hard depending on just how badly you've lost traction.

 

The only other input is the RPM signal of the engine. So that's 6 intercepted injector lines, four wheel speed sensor taps, and one tap into the RPM signal plus a power and a ground. Easy for a man of your wiring talents Si

 

-Ian

[paul mac]

if you've bought it second hand get a set of plugs from racelogic (about £12) and even if its new make sure you get the male female combination right then you can unplug rltc and just plug your injectors back to standard i found this invaluable in diagnosing a fault (not with rltc)

[milocoon]

Its a good whole day to put this in and you need a portable gas soldering iron, be careful where the waste heat from the tip goes. i had a problem with the car refusing to start afterwards and it was the alarm/immobiliser in the end. If you conact racelogic then mike broadbent will send you a diagram for 1) UK model, 2) JAP model or 3) US model. If its a newer VVTi you will need to find out for that as well. I don`t own a laptop so went for the Digital Adjuster and set up the unit at home using a 12V power supply and connected to a Home PC with serial port. I tried reading the settings off the unit but it had Error- reading traction memory, I then tried writing a new .dat file from MKiV store and it failed Error- writing traction memory so I phoned mike at racelogic and returned it, it had a comms problem so my brand new box is on its second PCB now. A quick description of how I did mine, remove passenger seat, pull off trim along sill and pull the carpet back. 2 x 10mm headed nuts hold the ECU cover down so remove these. Undo a 3rd nut underneath and the ECU`s can be moved. TRAC ecu is on the LHS and has a pull connector, remove and store this somewhere safe. Main ECU is on the RHS and has 2 connectors, the top one for A1 and A2 has a 10mm headed bolt to remove and then you can pull this out, A3 just pulls out. Remove the ECU and store somewhere safe. I used the 8 terminal connectors once I worked out how to insert the pins into the plastic blocks fully and I tinned the cut wires A1-1 to A1-6 one at a time and crimped and soldered each one, it was very difficult and I have bruises on my side from leaning on the sill whilst carrying this out.Power/Earth/RPM were easier, ABS wires tricky.

[Lucifer]

Glad you got it sorted in the end. As Mike said very rare to have a bad unit.

 

Was Phil able to sort you out with the other issues?

[milocoon]

This .dat was for tight winter in an AUTO supra.

Config Menu Screen

Cylinders = 6

It mentions in the manual that a 6 cylinder with 2 coils should be set to 3 Cylinders if RPM is picked up off one coil, I used the Red/Yellow wire which is described as IGNITER off of A1-T (same physical location as a US model which uses E9-58) and the revs seem low compared to my tacho ?

Do I need to change the 6 to 1 ? (6 coil packs)

It says in the manual to change this value until the rpm is correct.

 

Minimum Operating Thresholds is set for 2250 RPM reading the manual, below this setting the system will not operate, I`ll check tomorrow but if I`m showing low on the Digital adjuster then the RLTC won`t do anything until I`m revving high ?

 

The wheel speeds at 52 MPH displaced as 81/81/81/81 KMH on the Adjuster so thats fine.

[RedM]

Blimey, a whole day to fit. I'm up at Envy this week for my fitting. They better be timely with the tea and biscuits.

[milocoon]

Envy should be a lot quicker than me as I went slowly but carefully and it was quite cold outside on my drive. Might need to move my RPM wire to another location as my revs are`nt showing the same as my Tacho (used A1-28), does anybody on here know the terminal location for the TACHO wire on the ECU A1, A2 or A3 I think its probally on A3 (as that`s where the UK/US diagram shows it as E10 terminal 16) but its only a guess ?

[Terminator]

This .dat was for tight winter in an AUTO supra.

Config Menu Screen

Cylinders = 6

It mentions in the manual that a 6 cylinder with 2 coils should be set to 3 Cylinders if RPM is picked up off one coil, I used the Red/Yellow wire which is described as IGNITER off of A1-T (same physical location as a US model which uses E9-58) and the revs seem low compared to my tacho ?

Do I need to change the 6 to 1 ? (6 coil packs)

It says in the manual to change this value until the rpm is correct.

 

Minimum Operating Thresholds is set for 2250 RPM reading the manual, below this setting the system will not operate, I`ll check tomorrow but if I`m showing low on the Digital adjuster then the RLTC won`t do anything until I`m revving high ?

 

The wheel speeds at 52 MPH displaced as 81/81/81/81 KMH on the Adjuster so thats fine.

 

 

Pin E9-58 is the rpm signal to the igniter it is the same pin for all MKIV JZGTE variants AFAIK. This should be true RPM, so not sure why you are reading low. No one has had to alter the cylinder number to 3 to get RL to work, unless anyone else knows otherwise.

E10-16 is the output signal from the ECU to the Tacho, again common to all variants. This can be used to get a RPM signal that corresponds to 6 cylinders setting in RL. I feel it is always better to pick up a true RPM signal rather than use the software to fudge it.

The 2250 RPM lower limit is set to stop RLTC cutting in when pulling away, if it is set lower the car may bog down under mid to high throttle take offs. Obviously if you are reading half RPM RL will not work

When I did my first install of RLTC it took me about 6 hours. As Mike said the foot well work is a killer. A Field harness is well worth the extra £ IMHO. But the most inaccessible part are the ABS sensor wires, it is like trying to work with your wrists tied together the space is so small. A quick release steering wheel makes all work in this area so much easier.

[paul mac]

i found removing the top glove box (only 4 screws) a help, not much but every little helps when your bodies twisted into positions you could only achieve when you were 3, if you have any piggy backs (safc, itc, rev/speed) make sure they go on a seperate rpm signal to the rltc as it will screw it up (like mine)