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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

auto box oil change.


supra matt

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why do you not just undo the two drain plugs on the box to empty all the oil 8.2 ltr. out then refill ?

 

Because this does not get all the oil out, from reading up on it here the torque converter holds a massive amount of oil as well.

 

I spent a while reading through all the related threads on here a while back and some folk seemed to think that a normal change (the one you suggested at the start) is fine and a full flush is only required after a rebuild or if you are having problems, or at least that was my understanding.

 

Have a search and do some homework, best way to learn about your motor that old search button :)

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Hi all be reading about changeing the oil in the auto box. Was just wondering what all this is about using 16 liters of oil :rolleyes: to flush and refill the box!.

 

why do you not just undo the two drain plugs on the box to empty all the oil 8.2 ltr. out then refill ?

 

or is this a:badidea: .

 

You only need that much if you do a complete fluid change. Unless your fluid is fried, smells like burnt toast, just the standard hot drain and refill is fine. See it as a regular service item to keep your box sweet. Only use Toyota Type IV fluid.

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You only need that much if you do a complete fluid change. Unless your fluid is fried, smells like burnt toast, just the standard hot drain and refill is fine. See it as a regular service item to keep your box sweet. Only use Toyota Type IV fluid.

 

i only had the car a fue months now and thoug i would service in all . thats the thing i see eveyone said only use the type 4 fluid but i do not no what is in the box at the moment! so shall i just drain the two litres and refill? :) thanks

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I read on here a while ago about doing a complete flush being the only proper way of filling up the gear oil, but then the other day i read on another forum (think it was SF) that a full flush is not recommended as it will probably end up doing more damage than good. I'll try and search for it later and post it up.

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A full flush is a PITA!

 

Its only risky as you have to pull one of the tranny cooler hoses off and run the car up for a few seconds to expel some fluid.

 

The way i do it is to measure the amount of fluid you pump out (you need two people to do this obviously)

 

Then you putt in that amount of new fluid you measured. I did it in 1/4lt increments to be safe (yes it takes a long while) I flushed 10 litres through my box.

 

Have fun if you decide on a full flush.

 

Scotty

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Its purely down to personal choice.

 

I put alot of stress into my autobox so i do a sump drain quite regularly and then a full flush as and when im in the mood.

 

You dont waste any fresh oil when you do a full flush. Your simply pumping out the oil at one end and putting in the same amount of new at the other.

 

If you dont wanna do a full flush then dont. I was purely explaining how its done.

 

The sump change only changes 1.9lts as thats all that sits in the bottom when its not running. The box holds about 9-10lts.

 

Like i said, its personal choice.

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There has been discussion about full flushes. The issue is that the addatives in the fluid break down over time and with use. The simple drain and refill is supossed to keep these additives inthe right concentration. It is said to be possible to cause glazing in the box if addative concentration gets too high. This can occour if full flushes are done.

 

That said, I can't recall anyone who has done a full flush reporting back with any problems.

 

If the fluid is not fried there is nothing to gain from a full flush. AFAIR

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is there anyway to to check compatibility of fluids, I might move over to the type-IV in time, but want to avoid mixing fluid if they are non compatible, Dextron II in there at the mo, but thats what I have put in....not sure about what was in there prior to me owning it?? the chances are it was IV fluid so I have put Dextron in over the top and never had any problems.....any ideas how I can test other fluids out without a full flush??

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Toyota TypeII , no longer, avaiable was replaced by and is fully compatable with Type IV. I dont know if Dextron Type II is fully compatable or not, Dex III certainly is not. The big problem is the wrong fluid will not casde probles straight away, so garages may get away with putting Type III in as the damage develops over a long term period. My local Tocal Toyota dealers want to sell my Type III ATF, they said it was what they put in MKIV's:sos:

 

If anyone is uncertain as to what has been put in the box it is worth considering a full flush.

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Alex the box oli changes are the same as the manual; 24 months. AFAIK Toyota do not recommend a full flush unless there is something wrong with the box.

 

A brand new box is just bare matal. The ATF additives react to heat and coat the componants, the 1.9L drain and refill evey 24 months keeps the additive levels high enought to keep the parts coated correctly. To frequent changes, or as it has been suggested full flushes, saturate the system with addatives causing glazing, the additives dont get absorbed and as they are in high concentration clump to gether and form a sludge. This can hacve catasrophic effects if they block oil ways or valves.

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.. AFAIK Toyota do not recommend a full flush unless there is something wrong with the box.

On the same lines, it is interesting to note the underbelly shape of the sump.

You may find that it slopes the 'wrong' way in relation to the plughole, like they were trying to avoid losing too much fluid during the change.

 

Food for thought.

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  • 7 months later...

I was going to flush out the old Toyota fluid & replace with fuly synthetic Amsoil ATF (which t states is compatible with Totota Type IV).

 

I used to use it in my Jag XJ6 and it was sweet... made the shifts smoother & lasted longer (the previous owner had towed a huge caravan and allowed the ATF to go all brown & burnt).

 

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atf.aspx

 

What do you reckon??

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