Jake Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 A few questions about putting my engine back together after having the block bored out to 86.5mm and fitting new pistons and bearings. Should I coat the rod bearings and main bearings in oil before fitting them? It's going to get really messy if I do but I'm worried that they'll need that lubrication for the initial start up. Is there an easy way to get the old gasket material off sump #1 and #2? I'm currently softening it with thinners and rubbing it off with a softwood stick. It's hard going though. Should I get some of the (outrageously expensive) Toyota gasket sealant or will another brand suffice? Any recomendations? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 A few questions about putting my engine back together after having the block bored out to 86.5mm and fitting new pistons and bearings. Should I coat the rod bearings and main bearings in oil before fitting them? It's going to get really messy if I do but I'm worried that they'll need that lubrication for the initial start up. Is there an easy way to get the old gasket material off sump #1 and #2? I'm currently softening it with thinners and rubbing it off with a softwood stick. It's hard going though. Should I get some of the (outrageously expensive) Toyota gasket sealant or will another brand suffice? Any recomendations? Thanks Yes Jake, assemble all moving parts with quality oil. Cleanliness is also vital. All gasket surfaces should be clean and degreased before sealing. I use a sealant called Kawabond (Kawasaki labelled) probably a similar stuff to Toyotas. It is expensive but well worth preventing leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 ...Cleanliness is also vital. ... surgical-level cleanliness, if possible. When we're talking assembly of bearings and shells it's not far-fetched to avoid using paper towels even, and stick to clean cotton cloths. It pays to be paedantic here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Is there an easy way to get the old gasket material off sump #1 and #2? I scraped it off with a flat knife on my Pinto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffvalenti Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 With a recommendation that you can never have too much lubrication or be too clean. I used to try to fill all the oil galleries in the crank and block (as far as possible) when I was building engines. Oil the pistons and bores (you'll have to, to fit them, but as they're new they'll be running tight) The same goes for the camshafts. Make sure that they are well lubricated when you install them, bearings and lobes. Fill the oil filter with oil before you fit it, and spin the engine over on the starter with the EFI fuses removed until the oil light goes out before you attempt to run it for the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 You buy special cam shaft lube don't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I'd use assembly grease, it blends with the oil later and you get rid of the lot with the first oil change. The special cam lube is for breaking-in brand new cams. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnK Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Loctite do a gasket removal liquid. Couldnt tell you how good it is though sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 Thanks for all the tips guys. Don't worry about cleanliness, everything is spotless - I even freshly painted the garage walls and floor before starting this, and the engine is off the ground and mounted on a stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Worse thing I found was the fear of micro rust spots threatening to appear when I was rebuilding this time of year. Keep everything shiney covered in oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 WD40 is excellent when it comes to protecting polished bare metal from oxidisation. It's crap for removing rusty buggered bolts, but really good at this (Water Dispersant after all!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Loctite do a gasket removal liquid. Couldnt tell you how good it is though sorry. I've got this. You leave it for some time and the gasket becomes mushy. It works, and you don't risk fecking the sealing surfaces (very important) I'd never use metal to clean such surfaces, you need something soft, aluminum as a max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 If you won't be fitting and starting the engine straight after rebuilding use a thin film of grease on the bearings, it will just dissolve into the oil on start up. I know everyone is stressing clean, but it can't be TOO clean! The block needs steam cleaning or hot tanking then the oil gallery plugs removing and rifle brushing out. THIS CLEAN: ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/RB26_Race_Engine_Pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 The block has been dipped in a tank of some cleaning solution by the guys that did the rebore but I don't think they touched the oil gallery plugs. Where do I find those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 It MUST be pressure washed out, or the gallery plugs removed and brushed out, all sorts of gunge will be lurking in the galleries. I steam the block using super heated steam, but if you look at the ends of the oil galleries you will see hex plugs, remove them and brush through. Refit with Loctite Hydraulic Seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Surely the engine guys would've done this? I'd have thought general practice? How is that RB26 coming on Chris? It's all well and good looking shiney but I want to hear it roaring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Jake the gasket cleaner you need is Loctite 7200 (cat number 31034) if you cant find any give me a shout as i can get it from work on a "sponsership" deal if your not in a desperate rush, i presume you have read up on engine re-builds i have a cracking book in front of me (apologies if you've allready got it) "Tuning new generation engines by A.Graham Bell" (ISBN 0-85429-609-3) some of his examples are a bit dated now but its all still relevant, it has a good section on bottom end re-builds and just as important the critical firing up and running in procedures, he recommends to use nothing but the engine oil you use in it to re-assemble, with regard to the gasket stuff i would use a propriotory brand like Loctite or Hylomar and just check on the pack (or web site) that it is suitable, i used Loctite 5926 flange sealer (silicone blue) for the cam covers on the head (cost about £2.50) where Toyota specify that £40 stuff (???) and its fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 The block has been dipped in a tank of some cleaning solution by the guys that did the rebore but I don't think they touched the oil gallery plugs. Where do I find those? Out of interest Jake how much did that cost? I've got no idea if it's expensive or cheap. Also on a slightly different note, you never did tell me the postage cost for that monitor! Cheers mate, best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Surely the engine guys would've done this? I'd have thought general practice? How is that RB26 coming on Chris? It's all well and good looking shiney but I want to hear it roaring! I am having it dynoed at IES, Swindon Racing Engines are booked solid. I picked up a scrap head and block this afternoon, funnily enough, and will drop it at IES soon, so they can make up dyno adpator plates. Head is finished, I just need to collect that. Nearly there! Sadly work takes precedence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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