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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Putting engine back together


Jake

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A few questions about putting my engine back together after having the block bored out to 86.5mm and fitting new pistons and bearings.

 

Should I coat the rod bearings and main bearings in oil before fitting them?

It's going to get really messy if I do but I'm worried that they'll need that lubrication for the initial start up.

 

Is there an easy way to get the old gasket material off sump #1 and #2?

I'm currently softening it with thinners and rubbing it off with a softwood stick. It's hard going though.

 

Should I get some of the (outrageously expensive) Toyota gasket sealant or will another brand suffice? Any recomendations?

 

Thanks

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A few questions about putting my engine back together after having the block bored out to 86.5mm and fitting new pistons and bearings.

 

Should I coat the rod bearings and main bearings in oil before fitting them?

It's going to get really messy if I do but I'm worried that they'll need that lubrication for the initial start up.

 

Is there an easy way to get the old gasket material off sump #1 and #2?

I'm currently softening it with thinners and rubbing it off with a softwood stick. It's hard going though.

 

Should I get some of the (outrageously expensive) Toyota gasket sealant or will another brand suffice? Any recomendations?

 

Thanks

 

Yes Jake, assemble all moving parts with quality oil. Cleanliness is also vital. All gasket surfaces should be clean and degreased before sealing. I use a sealant called Kawabond (Kawasaki labelled) probably a similar stuff to Toyotas. It is expensive but well worth preventing leaks.

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:yeahthat:

 

With a recommendation that you can never have too much lubrication or be too clean.

 

I used to try to fill all the oil galleries in the crank and block (as far as possible) when I was building engines.

 

Oil the pistons and bores (you'll have to, to fit them, but as they're new they'll be running tight)

 

The same goes for the camshafts. Make sure that they are well lubricated when you install them, bearings and lobes.

 

Fill the oil filter with oil before you fit it, and spin the engine over on the starter with the EFI fuses removed until the oil light goes out before you attempt to run it for the first time.

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Loctite do a gasket removal liquid. Couldnt tell you how good it is though sorry.

I've got this.

You leave it for some time and the gasket becomes mushy.

It works, and you don't risk fecking the sealing surfaces (very important) I'd never use metal to clean such surfaces, you need something soft, aluminum as a max.

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If you won't be fitting and starting the engine straight after rebuilding use a thin film of grease on the bearings, it will just dissolve into the oil on start up. I know everyone is stressing clean, but it can't be TOO clean! The block needs steam cleaning or hot tanking then the oil gallery plugs removing and rifle brushing out. THIS CLEAN:

 

ftp://ftp.chriswilson.tv/RB26_Race_Engine_Pics

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It MUST be pressure washed out, or the gallery plugs removed and brushed out, all sorts of gunge will be lurking in the galleries. I steam the block using super heated steam, but if you look at the ends of the oil galleries you will see hex plugs, remove them and brush through. Refit with Loctite Hydraulic Seal.

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Jake

the gasket cleaner you need is Loctite 7200 (cat number 31034) if you cant find any give me a shout as i can get it from work on a "sponsership" deal if your not in a desperate rush, i presume you have read up on engine re-builds i have a cracking book in front of me (apologies if you've allready got it) "Tuning new generation engines by A.Graham Bell" (ISBN 0-85429-609-3) some of his examples are a bit dated now but its all still relevant, it has a good section on bottom end re-builds and just as important the critical firing up and running in procedures, he recommends to use nothing but the engine oil you use in it to re-assemble, with regard to the gasket stuff i would use a propriotory brand like Loctite or Hylomar and just check on the pack (or web site) that it is suitable, i used Loctite 5926 flange sealer (silicone blue) for the cam covers on the head (cost about £2.50) where Toyota specify that £40 stuff (???) and its fine

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The block has been dipped in a tank of some cleaning solution by the guys that did the rebore but I don't think they touched the oil gallery plugs. Where do I find those?

 

Out of interest Jake how much did that cost? I've got no idea if it's expensive or cheap.

 

Also on a slightly different note, you never did tell me the postage cost for that monitor!

 

Cheers mate, best of luck!

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Surely the engine guys would've done this? I'd have thought general practice?

 

How is that RB26 coming on Chris? It's all well and good looking shiney but I want to hear it roaring! ;)

 

I am having it dynoed at IES, Swindon Racing Engines are booked solid. I picked up a scrap head and block this afternoon, funnily enough, and will drop it at IES soon, so they can make up dyno adpator plates. Head is finished, I just need to collect that. Nearly there! Sadly work takes precedence :(

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