Soonto_HAS_soop Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Right, I remember it being identified that the FSE regulators can be found to be dropping pressure once they have been warmed/run for a while. Well I've found that mine starts from cold at 36-37psi static pressure, after a brief 10 minutes at idle, this has dropped to around 30-31psi, and after a longer 45 minute run it will have dropped to around 28-30psi dependent on driving style. My question is this, as I know that it is dropping over any type of run, should I increase the static pressure to be around 42-44psi when cold so that when it warms up it goes to around 36psi? Or do I leave it as it is, as it seems to be running fine as it is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Get the stocker back on - your FSE is buggered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted January 12, 2006 Author Share Posted January 12, 2006 I've got an HKS one that will go on with the new fuel rail at the start of Feb, I sold the old standard item, so just wanted to suffice with the FSE for now, need to know if it is best to up the cold static pressure for 2 or 3 weeks. It never drops below the levels stated, so thought it would be safe for a little while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 They really are pants mate as Alex said I would get a stocker until you are ready to put a proper one on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Class One Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 They really are pants mate as Alex said I would get a stocker until you are ready to put a proper one on. By that, would you mean the Aeromotive FPR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Terry S Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 By that, would you mean the Aeromotive FPR? well yeah I like them, but sure there are others better than an FSE too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Might be able to get you a stocker if you need it. PM me if you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 well yeah I like them, but sure there are others better than an FSE too. i spoke to Pete at Thor on the subject of FPR's when i got my car set up, thinking the FSE was crap cos it aint all shiny and anodised and he told me he had not had one go wrong, however he had had 2 aeromotives go pete tong so i think the FSE's get a bad press maybe if they'de made them all shiny or anodised people would think they're great ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well how about the fact that because of the shape of it, you can't use any decent fittings? Just this evening I was trying to hook up my new fuel line, but where the 1/8nptf connector is, there's a little ridge just above it (because it's round and the port needs a flat face to mate to the connector) This ridge prevents you from tightening up a 1/8 to -6 adaptor, because it holds the hex part off, so it won't go tight. Bit difficult to describe, but the end result is you have to turn the hex of the adaptor off, screw it into your -6 line (or the 90deg on mine) and then tighten the whole lot together whilst risking the chance that the adaptor will crack at the root of the 1/8 thread. (Which it is likely to because it's just al.al.) Another reason to go for something like a aeromotive or even a weldon IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well how about the fact that because of the shape of it, you can't use any decent fittings? Just this evening I was trying to hook up my new fuel line, but where the 1/8nptf connector is, there's a little ridge just above it (because it's round and the port needs a flat face to mate to the connector) This ridge prevents you from tightening up a 1/8 to -6 adaptor, because it holds the hex part off, so it won't go tight. Bit difficult to describe, but the end result is you have to turn the hex of the adaptor off, screw it into your -6 line (or the 90deg on mine) and then tighten the whole lot together whilst risking the chance that the adaptor will crack at the root of the 1/8 thread. (Which it is likely to because it's just al.al.) Another reason to go for something like a aeromotive or even a weldon IMHO. really dont know what your talking about here mate, ????, yeah go for something shiny and red that f**ks up regularly..........that makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well basically you can't fit any proper fitting to the damn thing. So the only option is to go for something else.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well basically you can't fit any proper fitting to the damn thing. So the only option is to go for something else.... well this one fit perfect and runs 510 rwhp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 You say that but is that a jubilee clip I see on the RHS port? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Well basically you can't fit any proper fitting to the damn thing. So the only option is to go for something else.... i had the same problem when fitting mine few years back:rtfm: but got my local hose company to make up a fitting for me. must say had no problems with the FSE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 really dont know what your talking about here mate, ????, yeah go for something shiny and red that f**ks up regularly..........that makes sense Anyway, what are you on about. Regularly. LOL he had had 2 aeromotives go pete tong FSE's get a bad press Yeah strange how that happens isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 well spotted, yes it is, as you may be able to tell i am into bling engines which i do all myself, however my blinging does'nt extend to fuel hose i just use bog standard stuff as i consider braided stuff with fancy ends a waste of money, my apologys as i have no experience of fitting this kind of stuff to an FSE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonB Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Right, I remember it being identified that the FSE regulators can be found to be dropping pressure once they have been warmed/run for a while. Well I've found that mine starts from cold at 36-37psi static pressure, after a brief 10 minutes at idle, this has dropped to around 30-31psi, and after a longer 45 minute run it will have dropped to around 28-30psi dependent on driving style. My question is this, as I know that it is dropping over any type of run, should I increase the static pressure to be around 42-44psi when cold so that when it warms up it goes to around 36psi? Or do I leave it as it is, as it seems to be running fine as it is? Static pressure is supposed to be set & measured with the pressure hose disconnected, and ideally without the engine running. If you have it connected up the pressure will be less because you're in vacuum. The manifold pressure may change as the engine warms up because the idle does. So the first thing to do is check the pressure with the hose off and engine not running with a wire between the FP and +B terminals of the diagnostics port (that will run the fuel pump) with a warm and cold engine. Stock pressure is 40psi static. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul mac Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 Anyway, what are you on about. Regularly. LOL Yeah strange how that happens isn't it? sorry if you take exception to what i'me saying but i thought forums like this were about sharing experience, as i said Pete at Thor who has probably seen and tuned more supras than anyone on this board told me FSE'S 0 Aeromtives 2 if that does'nt fit in with your way of thinking then fair enough, personally i value and appreciate someone like Pete giving his opinions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted January 12, 2006 Share Posted January 12, 2006 well spotted, yes it is, as you may be able to tell i am into bling engines which i do all myself, however my blinging does'nt extend to fuel hose i just use bog standard stuff as i consider braided stuff with fancy ends a waste of money, my apologys as i have no experience of fitting this kind of stuff to an FSE That was my opinion too until about three days ago when my fuel line split at precisely the location of that jubilee clip (well OK not precisely, it was on the other port of the FSE) Hence why I've gone full goodridge connectors and braided hose. (All F.O.C. courtesy of work! ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Static pressure is supposed to be set & measured with the pressure hose disconnected, and ideally without the engine running. If you have it connected up the pressure will be less because you're in vacuum. The manifold pressure may change as the engine warms up because the idle does. So the first thing to do is check the pressure with the hose off and engine not running with a wire between the FP and +B terminals of the diagnostics port (that will run the fuel pump) with a warm and cold engine. Stock pressure is 40psi static. Thanks for that Si, I'll check it over the weekend using that method! I think I'll stick with it for the next 3 weeks, as it has been fitted for 2 years, and I'll monitor the pressure whilst it's still in place. Then swap it out and bin it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 You gonna add the FSE to your sig Anyway, let's not get worked up over FPRs. Paul Whiffin had at least one FSE go bad, Terry has, I have, Mr. "has" Soop has. That's 4:2 now It's not just the reliability of the units that makes me steer clear of them, it's the intent of them as well - they are rising rate, which means they force more fuel out of the injectors than they should deliver. If this is needed, then you've got the wrong sized injectors for the job - if it's not needed, then you are mucking up your fuelling curve and putting extra strain on the fuel pump for no reason That's a very shiny engine bay -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Anyway, let's not get worked up over FPRs. Paul Whiffin had at least one FSE go bad, Terry has, I have, Mr. "has" Soop has. That's 4:2 now I'd expect it would be more like 30:2 if people did some more indepth fuel monitoring. I only noticed it now that I have a fuel pressure gauge in the dash. The little gauges that need to be removed are no good. Also, just for people info, the most pressure that my FSE has gone to has been 68.9psi, so nearly 5bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 I'd expect it would be more like 30:2 if people did some more indepth fuel monitoring. I only noticed it now that I have a fuel pressure gauge in the dash. The little gauges that need to be removed are no good. Also, just for people info, the most pressure that my FSE has gone to has been 68.9psi, so nearly 5bar. Well, as someone already said, the *static* pressure is what your fuel system runs at with the engine switched off but the fuel pump powered up. When you run the car the vacuum in the intake brings the fuel pressure down, and this varies depending on the engine load. My static is 38psi but when the throttle is closed and I'm coasting down from high rpms due to a moment of madness, I'll see 25psi because I'm pulling such a high vacuum. I'll see 58psi at full boost, that's 1.4bar (20psi) on top of 38psi static. -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soonto_HAS_soop Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Well, as someone already said, the *static* pressure is what your fuel system runs at with the engine switched off but the fuel pump powered up. When you run the car the vacuum in the intake brings the fuel pressure down, and this varies depending on the engine load. My static is 38psi but when the throttle is closed and I'm coasting down from high rpms due to a moment of madness, I'll see 25psi because I'm pulling such a high vacuum. I'll see 58psi at full boost, that's 1.4bar (20psi) on top of 38psi static. -Ian Yes, mine drops to around 26-27 when I let off the gas, but when at idle and cold it reads 36-37psi. When warm and sat at idle the pressure is down to 30-31. I wasn't using figures from under any load other than idle. The pressures stated are even taken around the same rpm, 800-900. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Mmm, that is quite a drop, mine reads about 28psi when idling, 25 when coasting down. Your static pressure must be high for it to read 38psi at idle at any point? -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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