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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Boost Gauge T-Piece


Duffers

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Jesus! Was having a rather spirited drive down the M61 just now with my new FCD fitted and was giving it a bit of full flavour behaviour when the car lunged backwards like a really violent fuel cut and then wouldn't let me accelerate past about 2k revs in any gear. Also, came off the motorway to the sliproad roundabout and it just died. I'm getting a tad upset at this point but it did start straight away. I limped home, was overtaken by an S2000, 2 x Audi TT's and a damn Nova GSI! Gutted. Anyway, got back and all I could find was that the little extension to the boost gauge T-piece had blown off the manifold thing. Stuck it back on and all seems well now - would that of caused all that grief? Jeez!

Paul

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Guest chiefvinso

Duffers, I'm just about to fit a manual boost gauge to mine, where did you get the t piece from and I pressume you tapped into the pipe that is currently coming off the intake manifold? Cheers

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Duffers, I'm just about to fit a manual boost gauge to mine, where did you get the t piece from and I pressume you tapped into the pipe that is currently coming off the intake manifold? Cheers

 

Howdo mate!

The t-piece and the pipework were supplied with the gauge. I guess halfrauds will sell them to suit the bore of the pipe though.

Good luck!

Make sure it's on feckin' tight!

Paul

:p

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If you have fitted the "T" piece on the hose where the MAP sensor is along with the FPR, then consider yourself lucky you didn't melt anything.

If it goes loose, the fuel pressure under boost drops to dangerous levels.

It does a 'jake on you' as we say

 

So could I of done more damage then John? I mean, I didn't drive it again after replacing the little hose, I just started it and it didn't stall straight away so I was happy I'd located the problem!

I'm scared now!

Paul

:cry:

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Guest chiefvinso
Howdo mate!

The t-piece and the pipework were supplied with the gauge. I guess halfrauds will sell them to suit the bore of the pipe though.

Good luck!

Make sure it's on feckin' tight!

Paul

:p

Cheers for quick response - just another question, did you splice into an existing pipe coming from the plenum chamber? From Johns response, sounds like you were lucky which is good news.

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Cheers for quick response - just another question, did you splice into an existing pipe coming from the plenum chamber? From Johns response, sounds like you were lucky which is good news.

 

I pulled the pipe off the black plenum and fitted one part of the T to it. I then cut a small piece of pipe about 2" long and conected that to the T and to the black plenum connector and the other part of the T went to the gauge. The hardest damn bit was getting it through the bulkhead. I did curse somewhat!

Paul

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So could I of done more damage then John?

yes.

If you're doing 1 bar boost, the fuel pressure is increased by 1 bar via the FPR feed, so that the pressure differential across the injectors stays the same.

If that pipe is blown away, then you will have 1 bar less fuel pressure, leading to seriously decreased fuel delivery exactly when you need it most (under high boost)

I've measured it on mine and it was AFR 15.5:1 instead of the stock 10.5:1.

If you keep your foot planted at that AFR you can get very serious engine damage, especially in the summer.

 

Here is a safer feed for the boost gauge (or any other vacuum/boost feed)

 

Yesterday I was at a friend's house where his wounded R32GTR laid in the driveway. We did a compression test and all cylinders were 170 except #2, which was 70psi.

Ouch.

He, too, found the FPR feed popped off, because some jackass had installed a manual boost controller on that feed and didn't secure it properly.

On the way home he actually thought that something mechanical had come loose and was banging on the engine, so fierce was the detonation. Like someone banging the block with a hammer, I knew that but he didn't (he's young)

Now he knows.:cry:

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Thanks for the advice John. I didn't know you could take the vacuum feed from anywhere else. I just found that location by doing a search on here. I've just been out for a quick spin to make sure it's okay. It seems to be. T2 is coming online about the right place so I left it at that. I'll swap the locations for the gauge tomorrow I think. I had no idea it could do that kind of damage just by that little hose popping off! Might be worthwhile everyone checking where their gauge is linked in and swap it to the location that John has provided! I sure am doing ASAP!

Cheers for the info and the pic John

Appreciated!

Paul

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I pulled the pipe off the black plenum and fitted one part of the T to it. I then cut a small piece of pipe about 2" long and conected that to the T and to the black plenum connector and the other part of the T went to the gauge. The hardest damn bit was getting it through the bulkhead. I did curse somewhat!

Paul

 

IMO don't use that dreadful blue small bore silicone *rap, use ONLY proper black "rubber" hose, the small bore silicone stuff commonly available has little retention, and easily splits as well. I see loads of boost cotrol problems when people have "upgraded" to this stuff. The fabric reinforced larger bore stuff you'd use for the rad or the I/C plumbing is fine, it's the 3 / 4 mm bore stuff that i thgink is often rubbish.

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IMO don't use that dreadful blue small bore silicone *rap, use ONLY proper black "rubber" hose, the small bore silicone stuff commonly available has little retention, and easily splits as well. I see loads of boost cotrol problems when people have "upgraded" to this stuff. The fabric reinforced larger bore stuff you'd use for the rad or the I/C plumbing is fine, it's the 3 / 4 mm bore stuff that i thgink is often rubbish.

 

Cheers Chris. I REALLY hate to say this now but mine is plumbed in with *cough* halfrauds windscreen washer pipe *cough* so errr, I'd better change this then! Can you post me some of this good stuff Chris? Do you stock anything like that? With a decent T-Piece too? Just let me know and I'll do you a money transfer. Thanks for pointing this out. I just thought any old pipe would do - should of known! :respekt:

Cheers

Paul

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Guest chiefvinso

Hi duffers, if you can get hold a decent t piece let us know so I can get one. Cheers John for the location for a safer feed, shall enjoy my xmas trying to get the pipe through the bulkhead!

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... shall enjoy my xmas trying to get the pipe through the bulkhead!

that's a price you pay for the 6sp

 

This works to the auto's advantage :ecstatic: because the gromet where the manual cable goes through is available and very-very convenient. Piece of pish in fact:rlol: :whip:

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that's a price you pay for the 6sp

 

This works to the auto's advantage :ecstatic: because the gromet where the manual cable goes through is available and very-very convenient. Piece of pish in fact:rlol: :whip:

 

Manuals have the clutch master cylinder mounted in the "grommet hole", it's not a cable! Makers should have a glanded bulkhead access hole in all models, to allow spanner twirlers like myself to go through with cables and hoses with minimum disruption or trouble :)

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