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86mm bore?


Jake

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Glad you approve Charlie :thumbs:

I know CW doesn't have much good to say about Wiseco pistons but apparently Ken Henderson from SP Engineering has used them in 800rwhp Supras and rates them with CP and JE pistons. They aren't as light as CPs but lighter than the stock ones.

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What do you reckon about the bearings Mig? Should I replace the main bearings and big & little end bearings while I've got it apart? With stock ones or aftermarket ones?

I was looking at the Power Enterprise PWR F-1 Black Bearings on MVP earlier but couldn't decide. What do you think?

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Actually i meant comparator' date=' as it takes a reading compared to an exact measurement (taken from a micrometer).Works in a similar way to a DTI to give a +/- measurement.[/quote']

 

OK. I know the exact thing you mean, still never heard it called a comparator :shrug:

This is the type I've got, but I've got the digimatic head. (Eyesight's not good enough otherwise!)

Mitutoyo Bore Gauge

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Well I was going to say OEM all the way anyway LOL..Toyota werent daft ;-).

 

I'm still yet to be convinced that after market ones are any better than OEM.

 

Theres an old saying .. If it aint broke dont fix it ..so if the bearings , crank surfaces all look like new and so do the bearings and they are all within spec wear wise and you kept them in order so you know where they go ;-) then i think that answers you question.

 

If you want it all spangly dangly then go for broke bud ...nice run in period.

 

If your on that much of a roll with all these flash pistons and bearings ...then bang some rods in ..you know you want to LOL

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What do you reckon about the bearings Mig? Should I replace the main bearings and big & little end bearings while I've got it apart? With stock ones or aftermarket ones?

I was looking at the Power Enterprise PWR F-1 Black Bearings on MVP earlier but couldn't decide. What do you think?

 

Ahhh bearings, there's another whole nightmare!

 

Toyota sell 5 different sized bearing packs. numbered 1 - 5 unsurprisingly.

 

The bearing type is stamped on the outer face of the bearing. You should replace it with a similar type. If you can't find the type on the bearing, then it can be worked out depending on which crank and cylinder block you have. (They made 7 cylinder blocks and 7 cranks - all of different sizes!)

 

Edited:- beg your pardon it was 8 of each. They had a number 0 too.

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Ahhh bearings, there's another whole nightmare!

 

Toyota sell 5 different sized bearing packs. numbered 1 - 5 unsurprisingly.

 

The bearing type is stamped on the outer face of the bearing. You should replace it with a similar type. If you can't find the type on the bearing, then it can be worked out depending on which crank and cylinder block you have. (They made 7 cylinder blocks and 7 cranks - all of different sizes!)

 

No need to work it out Tony ..Toyota were kind and stamped the sizes if the bearings on the 1st blade of the crank for the rods and or the 1st bearing journal for the block ;-)..nice of em huh ....thats if no one else has been in there for a swap around.

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If your on that much of a roll with all these flash pistons and bearings ...then bang some rods in
I'm tempted. Summit are doing Eagle Rods for $400 at the moment. The place I got the pistons from wanted $545

I'm not paying the silly money they want for Carrilo, Crower or Pauter rods though. The Eagles look like a good choice to me.

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I'm tempted. Summit are doing Eagle Rods for $400 at the moment. The place I got the pistons from wanted $545

I'm not paying the silly money they want for Carrilo, Crower or Pauter rods though. The Eagles look like a good choice to me.

 

Watch out Jakes building a monster LOL.

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Also I've just found this out (I've got too much info in too many places!)

 

Piston - cylinder bore oil clearance

Standard clearance

0.073 - 0.096mm

Maximum clearance

0.12mm

 

So you're machine shop should measure the pistons and then machine the bore's to match, untill the oil clearance is the same. Howver, those values may well change given that you're using a different piston, and I presume different piston ring set.

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Toyota were kind and stamped the sizes if the bearings on the 1st blade of the crank for the rods and or the 1st bearing journal for the block ;-)..nice of em huh ....thats if no one else has been in there for a swap around.
My mains are all #3 or #4 , like you say it's stamped on the bearing. Wouldn't that change if I change the rods though?
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No need to work it out Tony ..Toyota were kind and stamped the sizes if the bearings on the 1st blade of the crank for the rods and or the 1st bearing journal for the block ;-)..nice of em huh ....thats if no one else has been in there for a swap around.

 

Cool, I knew the block and crank numbers were stamped on the prospective parts but didn't know they then stamped the bearing size on it when assembled. Good idea Toyota! :thumbs:

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My mains are all #3 or #4 , like you say it's stamped on the bearing. Wouldn't that change if I change the rods though?

 

Technicaly no ..as the rods should be made to have the same ID as the stockers. But i have seen variations ..ALWAYS have a meassure up and check see. I have had rods that have been spot on where the wrist pin journal has been exact and the bearing journal also, seems to be the high end rods that are better made. Some have been a little tighter and some looser ..so this needed to be addresed.

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My mains are all #3 or #4 , like you say it's stamped on the bearing. Wouldn't that change if I change the rods though?

 

Odd that you've got two numbers? What's the numbers stamped on the crankshaft and cylinder block? If you add them together you can work out which bearings to use by adding the two numbers together:-

 

0-2 = bearing pack 1

3-5 = bearing pack 2

6-8 = bearing pack 3

9-11 = bearing pack 4

12-14 = bearing pack 5

 

We're talking about main bearings here mate. Changing the pistons shouldn't effect the main's.

 

Or pehaps it's only me that's talking about main bearings. oops. Sorry to confuse!

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