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paint job


suprasport

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how long did it take you to prep it mate? as im considering having a go at doing mine too (ill practice on my mini first tho).

 

hi mate, it took about a 10 days but that was due to the bodykit being the biggest load of crap ever, but other than that it took just over 2 days.

 

ps. paint it black, much easier :blush:

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ok its going like shit, paint has reacted with something overnight its showing up like scratches and cracks, also around the edge of some filler, had a bloke round who used to do it for a living suggested using a stopper/sealer first, allthough couldnt suggest why it had reacted, everyone says i have done it right its just one of those things. :shrug: one good point he was very impressed with the actual spray job :D . anyway paint shop sold me some primer/filler and suggested that i take it right back down as it will have to much paint on and will never seal and probably sag, allthough he phoned his expert who said that i should just very lightly sand with 800 to 1000 grit and go straight to basecoat, but i am not sure if he realised how many layers it has on at mo. tested the primer on a dash part i was having problems with and that was fine but another piece reacted again.

also there has been no reaction on primer or basecoat just the pearl.

got to get it right this time as they have run out of paint and i am out of patience and the will to live :violin:

what should i do, have no problem with the spraying just the method now.

 

The scratched look around filler etc is usually down to the prep, it sounds like you didn't spend enough time making sure you eradicated all the course sanding marks out of the filler, did you guide coat it after priming? its quite common, its very easy to think you have got rid of all the scratch marks once you get the primmer on, and the trouble is you don't notice it until you have got the lacquer on and it has dried, from you pics it look like you have done a good job! did you get the doors etc to match ok?

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The scratched look around filler etc is usually down to the prep, it sounds like you didn't spend enough time making sure you eradicated all the course sanding marks out of the filler, did you guide coat it after priming? its quite common, its very easy to think you have got rid of all the scratch marks once you get the primmer on, and the trouble is you don't notice it until you have got the lacquer on and it has dried, from you pics it look like you have done a good job! did you get the doors etc to match ok?

 

used a black guide coat, the marks are not in filler its the feathering, but i understand what you are saying, allthough it was flattened back again after first attempt as well, and didnt show after the first time, didnt do doors as the lot needed re-doing so will put them on this time :D

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used a black guide coat, the marks are not in filler its the feathering, but i understand what you are saying, allthough it was flattened back again after first attempt as well, and didnt show after the first time, didnt do doors as the lot needed re-doing so will put them on this time :D

 

Ahh right, in that case i think you may have either over thinned or you have put a coat of primer or base on too wet/heavy, that has a tendency to bleed into the feathered edge of old paint, there are two ways to get around this, one is to use isolator on all the repairs, or the alternative is to spot prime the repair with a couple dry coats first, but this way there is still a risk:yes: anyway good luck i hope it all comes good, and remember even the pros cock it up from time to time:yes:

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Ahh right, in that case i think you may have either over thinned or you have put a coat of primer or base on too wet/heavy, that has a tendency to bleed into the feathered edge of old paint, there are two ways to get around this, one is to use isolator on all the repairs, or the alternative is to spot prime the repair with a couple dry coats first, but this way there is still a risk:yes: anyway good luck i hope it all comes good, and remember even the pros cock it up from time to time:yes:

 

 

thanks for advice just finished priming (with 2k this time) tested a piece earlier doing various things to see what i did wrong and it only reacted when i drenched it in paint, so to quick between coats allthough did wait stated time will leave another 10 minutes this time around. so far so good though.

think it might be a few degrees cooler than the stupid thermometer is saying as well, which i believe will effect the flash time.

anyway the real test will be tomorrow so keep your fingers crossed for me :innocent:

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colour wise is similiar, but it stops there. this will lokk loads better :whistle: :D

 

:looney:

 

do your self a favour and put the doors etc back on before you finish it off as you wont get the colour right if you have painted them off the car as like someone said before it needs to be from the same batch etc but more importantly you have to keep the flow of the paint constant.....apply it slightly more in one area and it will look totally off colour!

 

and the reaction is where you have applied too much lacquer in one area and its reacted with the top coat. you will have to nib it back to the base coat and re-do it again......this paint is the worst paint to apply....but its worth it in the end.

 

good luck ;)

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no painting today, electric went out in garage :whistle: outbuilding ok, so been prepping bumper, inside and outside of bonnet etc. will spray those tomorrow and do the shell and doors monday.

good news is everything is ready and not a mark insight, i never want to see any sandpaper again in my life, hands are bleeding from blisters and cracking.

the sand and buff can wait till after christmas :innocent:

 

posted by keron

this paint is the worst paint to apply

 

now you tell me :D

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ah man! wouldnt it have been better to wait until tint was available! paint, on paint on paint etc will make reaction more likely! not definate by any means, but more likely

 

 

it had only had the one coat on bonnet etc. shell needed doing again as you know so no big deal anyway, shell hasn't been touched since it reacted apart from being prepped took it right back to toyotas original primer in most places at least.

had to because it felt like i was bodging the job. piece of mind :cool:

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