Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I'm stripping my engine down so I can get it rebored and fit some oversize pistons. I've got the engine on a stand, the head is off and the upper and lower sumps are off. I need a bit of help with a few things though. I can't see how the gear that drives the cambelt is secured. I can't see anything to undo but it doesn't seem to pull off either. What do I need to do? I presume I need to remove the big alloy cover from the front of the engine before the crank can come out, right? I don't have the right tool to undo the con rod bolts and the crank bolts. They look like male Torx type fittings, is that right? Anyone know what sizes they are? I can't exactly take it into Halfords with me Should I undo the con rods before lifting the crank out or lift it all out in one go? Is there anything I need to be extra careful with, or aware of, before I go any further? Thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 One more thing, the alloy thing that the oil filter fits onto, how do I get that off? There's nothing obvious holding it to the block. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I'm stripping my engine down so I can get it rebored and fit some oversize pistons. I've got the engine on a stand, the head is off and the upper and lower sumps are off. I need a bit of help with a few things though. I can't see how the gear that drives the cambelt is secured. I can't see anything to undo but it doesn't seem to pull off either. What do I need to do? I presume I need to remove the big alloy cover from the front of the engine before the crank can come out, right? I don't have the right tool to undo the con rod bolts and the crank bolts. They look like male Torx type fittings, is that right? Anyone know what sizes they are? I can't exactly take it into Halfords with me Should I undo the con rods before lifting the crank out or lift it all out in one go? Is there anything I need to be extra careful with, or aware of, before I go any further? Thanks a lot! 1) There's a plate that holds it on. (To the lower right as you look at the engine) Remove the bolt that holds the plate on. Then you need to "pull" the timing pulley off the crank. There's a couple of SST's (Special Service Tools) for this. 09213-60017 should do it. If you haven't got one of these lieing around, then Some kind of pulley puller? 2) I think you're talking about the oil pump assy. Yes, it'll need to come off. There's 9 bolts. You need to cut the Front Main Crank Seal off to take it off. (Cut it radially where the rubber is, then use a screwdriver with tape over the end, so as not to scratch the crankshaft to pry it off) 3) Not sure on the Torx. If anything it will be E10, I think. 4) Yep can take the Con-rods out before the crank. 5) Yeah there's loads you can inspect as you're pulling it apart. eg, con-rod axial float, con-rod thickness, con-rod - crankshaft oil clearance, crankshaft axial float, crankshaft - main cap oil clearance, main bearing cap bolt thickness and a whole plethora of Piston measurements. Also check the matchmarks on the rod caps and the con-rods. They're matched pairs. 6) The oil filter mount assy comes in two halves. To remove the whole lot from the block there's quite a large hex-head bolt slightly to the front of where you put the oil filter. To split the assy you'll need a 30mm socket to undo the relief valve that you should be able to see if you look onto the face where you screw the oil filter. Quite difficult to describe. Give us a shout if you need any more help mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 Originally Posted by Jake I can't see how the gear that drives the cambelt is secured. I can't see anything to undo but it doesn't seem to pull off either. What do I need to do? 1) There's a plate that holds it on. (To the lower right as you look at the engine) Remove the bolt that holds the plate on. Then you need to "pull" the timing pulley off the crank. There's a couple of SST's (Special Service Tools) for this. 09213-60017 should do it. If you haven't got one of these lieing around, then Some kind of pulley puller? I can't see this plate you mentioned Tony. Is it visable in the attached pic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 the alloy thing that the oil filter fits onto, how do I get that off? There's nothing obvious holding it to the block. 6) The oil filter mount assy comes in two halves. To remove the whole lot from the block there's quite a large hex-head bolt slightly to the front of where you put the oil filter. To split the assy you'll need a 30mm socket to undo the relief valve that you should be able to see if you look onto the face where you screw the oil filter. Quite difficult to describe. The big brass colour nut with the sensor on it, is that the one I need to undo? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I can't see this plate you mentioned Tony. Is it visable in the attached pic? Nope it would be where it would say plate on my ammended pic. If it won't come off still, measure the thread size, and also the distance between the centres of the holes I've highlighted. Then get a piece of metal, and drill and tap similar holes. Then drill and tap a big hole in the middle that will accept a pulley puller screw. Put a couple of bolts into the tool to match the crankshaft pulley, and then screw them into the crankshaft pulley. Then thread your pulley puller screw into the middle hole and onto the nose of the crankshaft. You should then be able to "wind" the pulley off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Here's what it should do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 The big brass colour nut with the sensor on it, is that the one I need to undo? Thanks Yeah that's what's holding the whole lot onto the block. You can split it down into two halves by removing the oil filter and taking the "screw" (It's really a relief valve) out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 Here's what it should do....Brilliant. Thanks mate. I don't have two bolts the right thread pitch and length here at the moment so I'll finish it off tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 I don't have the right tool to undo the con rod bolts and the crank bolts. They look like male Torx type fittings, is that right? Anyone know what sizes they are? I can't exactly take it into Halfords with me I still need an answer to the above question if anyone can help? Looking again I think they might undo OK with a regular six sided socket but I'd like somebody in the know to confirm that before I damage something if poss. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eyefi Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I can't see how the gear that drives the cambelt is secured. I can't see anything to undo but it doesn't seem to pull off either. What do I need to do? the crank gear is held on by the crank pulley and its flush fit. it is probaly being held back by a slight burr on the crank pulley keyway or maybe it's loctited on. use a gear puller to get it off but be careful of draging it over a burr and getting it stuck, you may need to clean the burr off first. are you following the toyota service manual? probably wise to do so if you aren't. otherwise be really clean, check tolerances, use correct torque technique and specs, label everything and don't rush it. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Jake, think they are E10 from memory, I wouldn't use a normal socket on these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 I think they're a special socket. You really DON'T want to try a stanard socket on those. EDIT : Woah, gotta be quick around here at 23:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 are you following the toyota service manual? probably wise to do so if you aren't. otherwise be really clean, check tolerances, use correct torque technique and specs, label everything and don't rush it. Thanks Eyefi. I'm not following the Toyota Manual, I don't have one. Everything is clean as possible. I even painted the garage floor and walls before starting this! Everything I've removed is placed on shelving in the order it came off and I'll be sure to torque it all up to spec. Thanks mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 Jake' date=' think they are E10 from memory, I wouldn't use a normal socket on these.[/quote'] E10 ? That's what Tony guessed to. What does it mean though? Is that a Torx thing? Do I just ask for a e10 socket? They look to be different sizes (The rod bolts and the crank bolts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 E10 ? That's what Tony guessed to. What does it mean though? Is that a Torx thing? Do I just ask for a e10 socket? They look to be different sizes (The rod bolts and the crank bolts) Torx external socket. Quick Google = http://www.wihatools.com/773serie.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 12, 2005 Author Share Posted December 12, 2005 Just what I needed to know! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Thought they were the same, maybe 10s or 12s. Probably worth investing in a Torx set? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 Thought they were the same' date=' maybe 10s or 12s. Probably worth investing in a Torx set?[/quote'] Yeah, it's costs a fortune to buy these things separately...especially on fuel everytime you find a new one you need. The Halfwits tool sets are pretty good and have lifetime no quibble warranty too. I had a socket break and they just swapped it no questions asked. I had to buy LOADS of new tools on the kitcar. I reckon the budget would've been a grand less without tools like engine hoists, spanners, sockets, compresson gauges, piston ring compressors, yada yada [edited: three times to eventually spell separately properly!] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b_have Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 wooo beat me there Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted December 12, 2005 Share Posted December 12, 2005 DONT! use Torx bits on the main ends and caps because they aint torx...they are double hex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeb Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 DONT! use Torx bits on the main ends and caps because they aint torx...they are double hex. Or "spline drive"? But definitely not Torx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted December 13, 2005 Author Share Posted December 13, 2005 DONT! use Torx bits on the main ends and caps because they aint torx...they are double hex. Bugger! Any idea where I can buy such things? (and what size?) I'm getting closer to buying those pistons of you Mig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Or "spline drive"? But definitely not Torx. 12 point double hexes all the way ...14mm for mains and 12mm for rod bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted December 13, 2005 Share Posted December 13, 2005 Bugger! Any idea where I can buy such things? (and what size?) I'm getting closer to buying those pistons of you Mig You might be outa luck on the pistons buddy ..I will let you know. 12 point double hexes are easy to get hold off. Halfrauds sell them for one. Get a good strong set mind you they take some battering ..Mine are all showing their use now...Crikey and they aint that old ..who said snapon was good .LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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