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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Bleeding Brakes


Geezabloke

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Im looking to bleed the brakes on UK spec, not sure what fluid is in there at present? I have read on the past threads that DOT5.1 is a good quality fluid without going OTT.

Can i mix this with whats in there or do i need to completely flush and change?

Im really doing this to try and firm the pedal a bit, they work fine but theres a little play on the pedal before they bite.

Any help appreciated.

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Nah Termy I was thinking about getting them to replace my Turbos with supa dupa hybrids, put strut braces all round, fit roll cage, fit Uk brakes, fit Top Secret front bumper, fit FMIC, Aquamist, indiglo speedo faces, Sparco seats, sat nav, DVD player. Then my morals kicked in and I told em it was £75.00.

 

:D

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Guys, while we're on the subject of brakes, does anyone know for definite the bleeding sequence???

 

I did a search and the general opinion is start with the furhest away as usual, but does anyone know for sure?

 

Cheers

 

Asim

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The best way to bleed the brakes is furthest away from master cylinder first. (diagonally across from servo)

 

If you have traction control, read this...

 

1) Ensure battery voltage is 10-14 volts. Disconnect

electrical connector from traction control pump. Connect one end of

Actuator Bleed Wire (09990-00330) to pump. Connect one end of a clear

vinyl tube to bleed port on traction control actuator. Submerge other

end of tube in a container half filled with clean brake fluid.

2) Loosen bleeder plug and start engine. Connect actuator

bleed wire leads to battery and allow actuator pump to run for at

least 60 seconds. Tighten bleeder plug. Allow traction pump to run for

about 30 seconds. Check master cylinder fluid level. Reconnect

traction pump electrical connector. Check for any ABS DTCs. Refer to

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM article.

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Guest Martin F
Originally posted by 400BHP

The best way to bleed the brakes is furthest away from master cylinder first. (diagonally across from servo)

 

If you have traction control, read this...

 

 

That needs to read 'If you have UK spec traction control, read this......... '

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Guest Martin F

The actuator pump, usually refers to the solenoids in the ABS unit, the traction pump is a seperate item located under your master cylinder purely for the traction control system.

 

I think the actuator bleed wire is just a short piece of wire with the relevant connectors on the end, so yes you can use a normal piece of wire.

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Well it says first run the actuator pump for 60 seconds, then run the traction pump for 30. As far as I can see it's only asked you to connect the actuator bleed wire to the traction pump, so actually my question is:

 

How do you run the actuator pump?

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Guest Martin F

Ahhh i see what you mean now.

 

The traction system (UK Spec) consists of a traction pump and some actuators, this is in addition to the ABS actuators.

 

I recognised the text that 400bhp posted last night, but i feel it may have lost something in it's copy as it doesn't seem to be too accurate; asks to connect bleed wire to actuator pump and then goes on about using the bleed wire on the Trac actuator!!!!

 

I can't find the original text to confirm at the moment, maybe 400bhp can post the link if he has it to hand. The trac actuators maybe similar to the ABS ones and activate as soon as the engine is running and the car is above a certain speed.

 

If you wanted to activate the Trac pump it can be done quite easily with just some wires as it is purely a 12v pump with the three connections, 12v, Ground, and a Sense line.

 

Will keep digging for the full procedure.

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Guest Martin F

I would also recommend NOT draining the system of fluid and refilling, but putting the new fluid into the reservoir and bleeding until you start to see it coming through the calipers.

 

Saves getting any 'awkward to remove' air into the system. There is so many miles of piping on the MKIV, especially the UK spec.

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Definately!!

 

If you have a UK spec like mine, and it been serviced every 6 months for all of its life then your brake fluid should have been changed every 2 years as per spec sheet and standard practice!

 

Mine is a golden yellow but i'm still gonna change it to 5.1 when I get chance and pressure bleed it!

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Originally posted by Martin F

I would also recommend NOT draining the system of fluid and refilling, but putting the new fluid into the reservoir and bleeding until you start to see it coming through the calipers.

 

Well, it had new fluid a couple of years ago, so it's only just due, but I'm curious about how I'm going to know when it's the new fluid - will old fluid be a noticeably different colour?

 

Also, do I not have to bugger about with the traction control then if I do it the traditional way?

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Ian

 

I found it very difficult to spot the change despite going to a racing fluid, some fluids are a different colour so that is noticeable. I flushed 500ml through each rear calliper and 400ml through each front. Probably over kill. It should be about the same on a UK spec. I also push all the cylinders back so I am sure no old stuff is sat in the callipers

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Guest Martin F

Hopefully the new fluid will be of a slightly different colour to the old stuff. However the full system takes just under 2litres, so once you have got through two litres you should be pretty much clean.

 

Nah, wouldn't worry about the traction control activation if you do it this way. I rebuilt my calipers a couple of months back and removed the Trac system, always an option when you have RLTC.

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Keith - yep the fluid should be a noticeably different colour.

 

watch for the colour change when it comes thru the bleed nipple, and then keep going anyway to make sure it's completely new fluid.

 

also, if there are any bubbles at all, keep going until these are all completely gone. keep the reservoir well topped up as you don't want that running out as then you'll get a huge chunk of air in the system which you'll have to bleed out.

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Removing the trac eh? Hmm, tempting. Tricky to do? I'd quite like to cermoniously burn mine ;)

 

Best not I guess - so just to be sure, by using traditional 'mate-in-car-with-foot-on-pedal' brake bleeding I don't need to fanny about with the trac system?

 

Stu - can you remember when you had it done?

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