Still got the supe !

[jagman]

Side skirts are a weird fit , externally they are fine , but they are lower than the floor pan by about 1 1/2 inches or so and leave a weird gap . They have a rectangular cut out front and rear , for access to the jacking points . Even weirder as no jacks have rectangular pads , and a jack has to clear the skirt lower edge . 
so I have materials to close the gap and seal it , there is a nice factory straight edge seam weld to follow and then bond in 4 rubber jack pad adaptors permanently to the floor ,hopefully this should stop the knob ends at tyre places who seem to love buckling factory seams by jacking on them !! Pics when done ! 

[jagman]

Started on the front today , cleaning and checking - all good , fitted new shock , removed the callipers for overhaul and painting - new arch liners arrived awaiting clipnuts . Closed up the gap on the side skirt lower edge 

[jagman]

Boot carpet has the matching edging in leather but is the wrong previous colour for my car - so next up is to dye it in black to match my interior ie all cream and black . But I have also found a boot mat to go over the original in cream leatherette . So I will have two boot mats . Rear fog light arrived to go in the trial rear lower , it also has reversing lights ,brake light and indicators that strobe . I got it because it’s well suited to the angle the rear bumper lower drops below the car , and of course you need a fog light for MOT , I don’t like using a stock light as a fog and prefer a separate light 

[jagman]

Battery arrived - got this one as it is very close to the size I need for the boot instal (I have the subwoofer in the rear and it fits width wise and can be laid flat - only 10 cm height ) 1100 amps (5sec) 500 cca amps despite its size still 45 AH . 
handy having the space upfront for WI tank /pump and power at the rear for charge cooler pump /fuel pumps and tein EDFC - no spare wheel so space in the wheel well .

fitting and wiring tomorrow- windscreen and rear screens in today .

managed to find a rear arch liner (mission impossible ) fronts are easy to get - fabricating my own LH rear liner 

[jagman]

Wind Screens are now in with new seals , most of the underside and arches are all back together and brakes all back in (waiting on new hel hoses ) one piston on each front is sticky so I will have reseal them . Battery is in and wires half in (waiting on terminal crimpers to arrive and a distribution block . Rear seat carpet and boot carpet dyed black (floor carpet next week ) some engine covers and bits removed for colour coding ,rad fan surround to be coded when I replace the rad next week - more trim to fit inside next week and hopefully side windows and doors completed (awaiting some rubbers ) - got some led indicators (73mm) for the front ,different size from stock ,added resistors and waiting on bayonet connectors so they are plug and play to originals and flash properly

badges all arrived but have to wait until paint has been machine polished and it’s now hard as nails due to the time gap ! . Painted all the wiper arms and new blades fitted 

[jagman]

Battery distribution block fitted to front battery tray 

[jagman]

Fitted the front indicator lights and rear fog/brake /rev light 

[jagman]

Slowly coming together again , lots of wiring in progress , fitting new head unit , removing the old greddy boost control display , ECU , and race logic RLTC , this leaves holes in the dash , so all getting filled and the dash then painted in body colour . The doors took a bit of time and patience …refitting all the seals and aligning and adjusting glass ,locks etc is quite a task ,getting it all spot on . Some delays waiting on little rubber items and clips and screws - each you have to get the part number and then wait on delivery .  The chargecooler needs a radiator fitting and space is so limited up front ..so I’m looking at using underbody fuel coolers about 4 in series each about 18 inches long . They only sit 8 cm from the floor so can be hidden away but still may need a very small rad - testing will tell . This week clearcoat polishing - down to 3000 grit , should come up like a mirror - many hours Labour there !!!! The end is in sight ! 
I made a thermal blanket for the battery to keep it warm ,basically cut one from another car in half and sewed in together as the battery is half normal size ,it also has a flap over the battery top to prevent shorts - all worked out well as you wouldn’t know the battery is in the back and it sits solid just behind the rear seat 

[jagman]

More interior going back in , painted some dash panels and plastics - a bit of a process , use a special plastic “etch “ primer then ,primer , then top coat ,then acrylic clearcoat , there are time limits involved between coats . Fitted new flex brake hoses . Removed old rad and checked the coolant . After such a long time the coolant was mint !! Toyota long life really is !!! 
more wiring to do 

[jagman]

Rad ready to fit , and engine bay clean up starts ! It’s going take some time !

[jagman]

Radiator is back in , plenty still to do . Looking back …..if anyone thinks a total respray is easy …..think again ,it’s a massive amount of work ! I did mine as I had a small hole on one sill and a tiny amount of bubbling on the roof - both could have been sorted in a couple of days ! But there could have been more ……there wasn’t ! 
would I do it again ?

no , use any and all inspection means ,bore scopes and access all areas - way way easier and cheaper ! Then add corrosion inhibitor . 
just getting new seals ,clips ,rubbers ,bolts , bungs ,and so on is a nightmare .

[jagman]

A bit more done - pulled out the spark plugs and put some marvel mystery oil down the holes - left it for 2 days and some in the top end . Hand cranked the engine and it was smooth as silk . Then spun engine on the starter - again perfect . Compression check - mint .  Back flushed the heater core and it was super clean , put some rad cleaner and hot water in and flushed it - again clean as a whistle . So looked at the fuel system - removed fuel pump hangar and drained the tank - fuel was a yellow colour (around 4 liters) but the tank was like new inside ,no debris or rust - perfect 

new plugs ordered and fitting a bigger new pump  - I removed the air con rad - knackered - so now have room for the chargecooler rad - they are different from normal hot water rads as they deal with much lower temps . and the header tank can go in the boot now . The tank has a large filler to allow ice to be used . 
I am fitting a gauge to look at pre and post chargecooler temps in the A pillar (more wiring) , the pre cooler temp will also be the post fmic temp . Just to see what happens with cooler running .

[stevie_b]

Thank you for sharing! It's great to see, and plenty of care's gone into it.
Have you used MMO in other cars? Is it a good preventative measure in older engines for example? I did a quick google search and lots of confusion / mixed opinions.

[Suprakeith]

Bonus engine was still smooth as silk on hand cranking. can't beat the great 2jz. be interesting to see the results from using charge cooler and how much of difference makes

[jagman]

MMO has been around forever , what’s in it has never been revealed , but it is pretty much a form of ATF .

ATF has a high detergent cleaner level as will MMO - this is as it is used in autobox and auto trannys have very small internal passage ways and tiny ball bearing valves /solenoids- if these clog or stick the tranny fails . So the fluid has a high cleaning level to remove carbon from sticking to surfaces . So adding MMO helps cleaning things like tappets /rings / valve stems . On older engines using a non synth oil - they get sludge build up - so MMO was used as an oil flush ,prior to an oil change . It won’t fix a worn /knackered engine but it does clean well in both oil and fuel systems . If parking up a car for years - a squirt down the bores keeps the top ring from sticking - then hand crank before using the starter blowing out the oil .

[jagman]

11 hours ago, Suprakeith said:

Bonus engine was still smooth as silk on hand cranking. can't beat the great 2jz. be interesting to see the results from using charge cooler and how much of difference makes

About 10 years ago I did some testing - the stock intercooler pipe work is rubber/plastic ,aftermarket pipe work is usually aluminium . Aluminium absorbs heat about 1000 times what plastic does .   I inserted a temp probe into the coupler of the up pipe behind the radiator and a digital gauge . 
then tested on road : the radiator heat out the rear of the rad was heating the air inside of the pipe . At low speed or stationary the temp rose dramatically, the faster you went the temp dropped .The FMIC worked quite well , especially at high speed but there was a sort of “plug” of heat caused by the radiator ,heating the up pipe , it cleared with speed after a delay . Next I insulated the up pipe with as much insulation as I could squeeze in the gap between the rad and the pipe 

It made a large difference in the air temp over the delay time period ,somewhere around 40 + degrees C is added by the up pipe absorbing heat from rad . But only at low speed 

So I thought the next step is to add a chargecooler into the up pipe ….heat is best removed at source ,ie pre turbo water injection ,but it has issues . Next  is heat exchange via intercooler or charge cooler ,both will work and both work best at the highest temp diff  . Using a chargecooler post intercooler is less efficient due to lower temp diff , but it will still exchange heat . 
downside is an increase in turbulence and slight pressure drop but it will remove the pipe heat off the radiator and drop IAT with a more constant output temp . In /out temps will show the drop on a gauge . And a dyno should show torque change with pump off and on and ice in tank .

the stock IAT sensor is in the inlet manifold and will suffer heatsoak , how this is scaled with the Ecu and at what temps it pulls timing ,I don’t know …..but if I know the temps are constant and low at all times - this can be scaled back . I have not read of anyone trying combined cooling fmic and chargecooler so no data is available - so I’m giving it a go and see what happens - maybe it’s insignificant, who knows ? 
 

[jagman]

Dash going back in , so into a new year to finish off .

couple of new things to try out ,that I’ve not seen on a supra before ,and see what data they provide 

1 a CHT system and 2 a modified water stat system . See what data comes from them ? 

[jagman]

Removed the 255 fuel pump and fitted a new 450 Walbro pump  -switched on the ignition and ….nothing . Bypassed the fuel pump Ecu from the diagnosis port FP …..and the pump runs smooth as . So the FP Ecu has finally died (it had hot start issues previously)

so a bit of wiring needed to by pass the ECU and add a new relay and heavier gauge wire to the FP to battery . Top tip : the connector at the fuel pump cover is the weak spot in the wiring , the pins are open (no insulation) hence connector plastic melting - fill void with RTV.

Next up trying out my own head cooling mod using twin external stats - not seen this tried before - see pic 

 

[jagman]

Some new plugs arrived today ,so fitted them and when for the start ………..fired up instantly and ran smooth as you could wish for …

I was well pleased ,ran it for 30 mins and topped up the coolant and bled it , heater super hot . One small oil leak on an oil cooler union , tightened and ok ,and a small leak on the fuel pump banjo ,again nipped it up and fine . 
alternator and power steering all fine . 
So good progress and mostly wiring and lights to sort ,but about 4 weeks and should be all done ,ready for the ZF box and new turbo and injectors .

Anyone want an updated boostlogic box with billet sprags and hi stall converter ,good for high power cars -let me know , I don’t know of any other in the U.K. with the updated sprag and updated Kevlar clutch packs 

[mattdavies]

16 hours ago, jagman said:

Anyone want an updated boostlogic box with billet sprags and hi stall converter ,good for high power cars -let me know , I don’t know of any other in the U.K. with the updated sprag and updated Kevlar clutch packs 

You cannot be PM'd so thought I would ask, How much are you looking for ? 

[jagman]

I paid £1500 for the box , it was sent - to a race gearbox specialist who rebuilt it and replaced the Kevlar clutch packs with stronger packs as a one off - I imported the billet sprags from the US - Titan I think -£600 and they were fitted - £2500 for the build and conversion . high stall was around £400 . I have no idea what a similar spec would be now - don’t think billet sprags  are available anymore - £1000 would be a cheap price I guess as its No use to me and should not be sat on a garage floor for years . It was rated for 1500 hp - so really for high power spec cars - there were some other internals done but I don’t remember exactly what now . Done less than 500 miles 

[jagman]

Some bits arrived r35 coil packs ,and more bits on order - fuel cooler ,using a water /fuel heat exchanger and the chargecooler water circuit to cool , manual clutch pedal assy , and brake pedal , Haltech linear position sensor and a clutch emulator - to manual shift the zf .

Started the paint compound correction this will take about 30 hours flatting and polishing panel by panel and then some fusso soft 99 hydrophobic coat and a final fusso mirror shine coat - it’s a lot of effort involved ! Going for a top show quality finish and it takes time and effort !!

[SteveR]

Your rebuild is inspiring me to get on with mine, I haven't driven it since 2008 

[jagman]

On 1/13/2025 at 1:15 PM, SteveR said:

Your rebuild is inspiring me to get on with mine, I haven't driven it since 2008 

Once you leave a car off the road , you tend to make it into a mountain of a job rather than a small hill - the longer you leave it the worse it seems . BUT the reality is that is is not as bad as you imagine ! 
In my case I have made it way more complex : over the years things have moved on ….”small” turbos now make big horsepower and boost at crazy turbo speeds . 8 speed gearboxes !!! Active AI speed controlled suspension!

we all know the base engine is a fantastic design - 3x factory power ratings increase is possible and done often - part of what I’m trying out is to get some data :

what happens if you add a second intercooler (chargecooler ) , at what point does the head hit temp issues , what is the effect of fuel cooling . Water meth injection to the intake ports what effect and what limits . Can you improve head water flow and how does this affect head stress /temp .

can you increase power without oil temp increases , how far can you push pump fuel octane …

there is always a mechanical limit engine bottom end and such - hence the engine was rebuilt with rods /bolts/bearing /pistons and so on and is all new to allow me to push it a bit and not run into wear items like piston rings worn or such 

so I have taken 3 months off work to put it all together and see what happens ……..

once you start it’s far easier than the mountain you thought you had to climb …step by step . Starter ,alternator ,blowers ,windows wipers steering ,and most everything else still worked as if it was parked yesterday ! In your head they could all be knackered but NO ,probably all better than if you had driven it for 10 years ,not one stuck relay -the only thing so far was one brake light bulb holder corroded ! 

[SteveR]

4 hours ago, jagman said:

Once you leave a car off the road , you tend to make it into a mountain of a job rather than a small hill - the longer you leave it the worse it seems . BUT the reality is that is is not as bad as you imagine ! 
In my case I have made it way more complex : over the years things have moved on ….”small” turbos now make big horsepower and boost at crazy turbo speeds . 8 speed gearboxes !!! Active AI speed controlled suspension!

we all know the base engine is a fantastic design - 3x factory power ratings increase is possible and done often - part of what I’m trying out is to get some data :

what happens if you add a second intercooler (chargecooler ) , at what point does the head hit temp issues , what is the effect of fuel cooling . Water meth injection to the intake ports what effect and what limits . Can you improve head water flow and how does this affect head stress /temp .

can you increase power without oil temp increases , how far can you push pump fuel octane …

there is always a mechanical limit engine bottom end and such - hence the engine was rebuilt with rods /bolts/bearing /pistons and so on and is all new to allow me to push it a bit and not run into wear items like piston rings worn or such 

so I have taken 3 months off work to put it all together and see what happens ……..

once you start it’s far easier than the mountain you thought you had to climb …step by step . Starter ,alternator ,blowers ,windows wipers steering ,and most everything else still worked as if it was parked yesterday ! In your head they could all be knackered but NO ,probably all better than if you had driven it for 10 years ,not one stuck relay -the only thing so far was one brake light bulb holder corroded ! 

I'll keep watching your thread with interest, I'll have to read back to see the details of the things you mention you're doing.  No doubt things have moved on a LOT since 2008 ish when I stopped using the car and stopped being a regular here.