jagman Posted October 20 Share Posted October 20 Been on here years and still got the supra ! Worlds longest project !! As the car was before storage and mods ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 20 Author Share Posted October 20 Then I fitted a few cows worth of leather - roof dash rear seats and sides boot front recaro OEM seats and on and on … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 20 Author Share Posted October 20 Then I had a hole in the sill on one side - small but there …this led to the Bodyshop ……brand new inner and outer sills fitted .. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted October 20 Share Posted October 20 Nice , where did you get your sills from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 Sills were from Toyota ,inner and outer , there were only two inners left according to Toyota ! This led to getting the whole car being checked all over for rust …and a bare metal respray with all the correct undercoating - no rust found but now committed! So all stripped glass out job and correct anti rust primer (non porous coat ) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 The rear 1/4 panels were widened by an inch each side - this took a lot of blending and a lot of work ! To match the trial rear and be seem less - not recommended! The engine was swapped out just before going in to the shop - forged engine fresh rebuild with boostlogic manifold and 67dbb turbo - boost logic box fitted with upgraded clutch packs and billet 2nd sprag -fresh built .original do luck front fitted well and ridox sills - then into colour 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRA4EVA Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 So jealous about the sills, can't get sh1t now lol 2000s must have been an amazing time to own a MK4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 55 minutes ago, SUPRA4EVA said: So jealous about the sills, can't get sh1t now lol 2000s must have been an amazing time to own a MK4. Supra tax took hold ! The cars were never considered an icon (except by forum owners) bits swapped hand for next to nought and done to help other owners out - I got a pair of ganador electric mirrors for £200 and sold about 10 sets of oem front discs for £25 a pair ! Now people want hundreds of pounds for a bit of plastic trim !!! Then you couldn’t give away a side mount intercooler in good nick as everyone was fitting fmic and binning the stock front lips - lol I got a brand new long block from Toyota for £900 new ! Used it in CJs orange car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRA4EVA Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 Oh yeah ebay is fully of these chancers selling MK4 parts in absolutely horrible condition only suitable for the landfill and demanding a fortune. And no one calls these cars "grey imports" anymore and NA Autos are as good as TT6 now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 Paint was a house of kolor purple ,I had 4 or 5 test mixes done ,with different levels of pearl /flake , until I got the exact result I wanted in daylight /sun - a one off really . It’s all rock hard now . Once all back together ,just a ceramic finish to add . now I have a bit of time for the car , the last push over the next few months . I have boxes of stuff to fit ,many parts I am just fitting new as I can’t be bothered refurbing and it’s faster . So brand new UK brakes all round , I have CW pads , brand new shocks …I have gone with Tein and have the latest EDFC 5 with GPS ,AI and quieter motors ,also wireless. A whole bunch of arms drop links etc ,fuel lines brake lines , the complete cooling system ,all new - rad ,shrouds ,pump ,hoses etc - I have pencilled in a gearbox change post Xmas to an 8 speed ZF - a syvecs fit , toucan , new injectors (larger) water injection ,new turbo ( the “old” one has 500 mile on it - lol The 8 speed opens a whole new area , there is not that much data around with the mk Iv - for sure it works well and there are many options …not just the electronic control but internal upgrades ..clutches ,stall converters and on and on - ??? So a busy 2 months coming up … Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 Rear brake callipers - Dinitrol AV8 coated , one done the other as new for comparison. The factory casting is slightly rough hence when coated you get a smoother shiny finish . this will reduce any build up of brake dust sticking to the calliper and wash off with ease , wheel cleaners won’t effect the coating and it will withstand the temps - so last years and look the same as when fitted - the coating is resistant to most things - best using a hose rather than a jet wash - should never need a high pressure wash to clean . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 25 Author Share Posted October 25 The engine bay looking very sad ! Covered in dust ! Huge clean up required and some bling added . Looking at other bays put me to shame . You can just see an extra charge cooler I fitted going into the throttle intake behind the rad . I have not seen this done before , but twin cooling ,fmic then charge cooler . I tested this and it does work . IAT much more stable and allows higher boost . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 Got the car on ramps today and took a preliminary look - pretty good after such a long time - just surface rust on heat shields and suspension arms etc - nothing that wont scotch brite off - then dinitrol and alodine the aluminium parts . Interior fed with Connolly hide food ,some fitted and then taken off again - due underneath needs doing - wires etc need running - unwrapped bits I forgot I had and now need to work out where and how to fit . The dash needs to come out to swap for the cream one (I now have 2 sets of interior trim ) so I will fit a new heater core just in case . Pic of interior as it was originally . I am doing all the red in carbon and some of the cream bits - I may have carbon sunvisors - arrive this week ,so I can check fitment . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 29 Author Share Posted October 29 I found the charge cooler tank , just need a polish , I have a rad and pump somewhere . This needs to go in the boot , so I need to run wires for the pump . I might relocate the battery to the boot , this will give space for a WI tank up front with pump . I am trying to run all new looms while the trim is out , all made harder as I have a double din head unit ,speakers and sub to fit and a carbon steering wheel which needs looms for stereo control ,cruise , clock spring ,paddle shift and so on . Underneath tomorrow for a close inspection and clean up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted October 30 Author Share Posted October 30 On ramps today for inspection - looked at every nook and cranny - basically zero rust - dusty for sure ! All the factory under seal is good . I noted that Toyota dont under seal the whole bottom ,or maybe it’s just Jspec cars ? There is a line just 3 inch inside the sill join where factory under seal stops , I took off the exhaust heat shields as they don’t do anything with my exhaust fitted . Again under these no under seal , boot floor and into wheel arches same . I have zero rust in any of these areas but tomorrow I will mask up and spray a coat of Raptor 2k under seal . I’m not doing the whole car as it kinda looks like you are hiding something . The front under radiator x member was mint not a rust mark - understatement to say I was happy ! While underneath I fabricated a brace for the rear bumper and edged the lip with a door seal rubber - it now joins with the tank cover perfectly has no gap and an amount of give to stop cracking . The side sills also have a gap to the floor of about 2 inches - looks shit ! So I will fabricate a joiner to blend to the floor nicely - so happy no restoration needed underneath - dry storage for the win ! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 Started fitting rear brakes and shocks checked wheel bearings ,bushes and every small item - all good , coated the rear subframe and all surrounding areas ,boot floor and all the hidden areas with Dinitrol . Replacing the anti roll bars with stiffer ones and new bushes and drop links , that will take some of the roll force off the springs . For a 30 year old car it is remarkably good gotta love Toyota ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 2 Author Share Posted November 2 Wheels ….I really want to keep the wheels as they are genuine JDM wheels but as the car is an inch or two wider they are a tad sunken in . They are the proper 50 offset so perfect . I don’t want to fit spacers ,so I can get new outers 40 hole , but with more lip . a bit limited to how much I can add without silly size tyres ! Maybe another 2 inches and squeeze on 315 tyres ? Outers are only available as flat rather than stepped outers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 4 Author Share Posted November 4 Steering wheel arrived , I have to mod the clock spring to allow all the buttons to work and fit the cruise lever and a bit of wiring to the column loom . But the new wheel will match all the interior panels . Should really add a supra transfer decal in place of the GR ! Still waiting on parts to arrive , new arch liners ,ARBs and all sorts ,so tomorrow some wiring install and fit mirrors 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted November 5 Share Posted November 5 17 hours ago, jagman said: Steering wheel arrived , I have to mod the clock spring to allow all the buttons to work and fit the cruise lever and a bit of wiring to the column loom . But the new wheel will match all the interior panels . Should really add a supra transfer decal in place of the GR ! Still waiting on parts to arrive , new arch liners ,ARBs and all sorts ,so tomorrow some wiring install and fit mirrors If you could let me know how you're going to mod the clock spring I'd appreciate it, as there's only 6 pins, and I've yet to figure out how to add more?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 5 Author Share Posted November 5 The stock clockspring is limited , depending on what you want to add or lose . If you can lose the airbag then the 2 wires can be used for audio control - the loom runs down to the console by the hand brake - audio control only needs 2 wires - splice in a 3.5 jack plug and it goes into the head unit . If you want more , flappy paddles etc then you need a later clockspring with 12 pins plus 4 airbag pins - you need to get an out put connector and add wires along the column ( or a column loom from a breaker with a 12 pin connnector . And you need the wheel side connector 12 pin . Supra is a single shot airbag and later Toyotas are a twin shot airbag - you can just use a single shot or fire both 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 I have some carbon mirrors to fit and match the rest of the interior ,basically cream leather / carbon . They are no supra specific carbon mirrors so I’m using these , pivot distance the same and very close to OEM shape . Original vs retrim vs carbon . I have to swap the leather on the roof liner as it’s lifted a small amount and the biscuit is a bit floppy - so a swap onto my original grey liner which is mint . If the mirrors don’t fit exactly or there is an issue , I can reshape the liner before recovering . But I think they will be OK as is - I will update later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 6 Author Share Posted November 6 https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connectors/7201036?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_ePMax_Prio2-_--_-7201036&matchtype=&&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkeWNPPaitgloVr40Tn5O_YTRmJD&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwY2f7MLHiQMV2JtQBh2cFTEgEAQYBCABEgL36PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds this is the 12 pin female connector for the column side of the clockspring - some clock springs have 16 pin or 10 pin . So you have to cut off the original and put the pins in here plus the new cables along the column . The other side (steering wheel side ) is the same connector but the orientation sliders are opposite , so cut them off with a blade and add however many wires you need - flappy paddles audio cruise etc - pic is the plug you need for the head unit - cut off the connector and use two of the wires , connect to the two audio wires from steering wheel controls 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 8 Author Share Posted November 8 Clockspring /spiral cable : there are a few variations across Toyota/Lexus , each having slightly different connectors and wires . They are interchangeable to a point , most of them fit pretty much any steering wheel at the wheel end and relatively easy to fit at the column end . The main differences are the connectors - squib/s for airbag the connector at the wheel end and the outlet column end - this is due to the various steering wheel functions - cruise control are pretty much all 2 wires earth and ccs signal , the audio are either two wire or 3 wire , earth and vol/seek (au1) and mode (au2) , the tel wires are not really needed so spare (maybe used for flappy paddles . Horn is always an earth . The squib connector is usually a 4 pin separate connector PN 90980-121552 yellow colour - I am not using squibs as my wheel has a dummy airbag . But this connector allows 4 available wires . The main connector is usually a 12 way PN 90980-12552 ,some later cars have steering sensor inputs so more wires (not needed on supra ) the supra does not have the column wiring in enough wires - so you can use the 2 squib wires (if no airbag ) and cruise wires /horn with the existing clockspring . Some later cars have nav and rear cameras hence the extra pins in connectors . Connectors are around £2 so you can allocate pins to wires to suit your steering wheel and it’s functions and add cables to the column side to suit - it’s a minefield with so many different factory options and no plug and play option . But it is doable .some supra don’t have cruise but I think the connector is the same but no pins or wires - the later supra has extra for paddles I think - it’s not that hard to reach over and press the radio volume , for sure an easier solution ! But when you have buttons the urge to press them is strong ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 9 Author Share Posted November 9 Battery relocation : If relocating the battery to the boot area ,you should also extend the sense cable : The alternator uses a sense (S) wire ,this wire comes from the alternator to the bottom of the fuse block and joins where the main alternator output connects . This is about 1 foot from the battery . As the name implies the sense cable “senses” the voltage close to the battery and it is used to control the voltage regulator in the alternator . The heavy duty cable from alternator to fuse block (near battery ) carries all the charge current and any voltage drop on this cable is sensed and the regulator increases the output , ie if the alternator put out 14volts at the alternator and this dropped to 13.9 at the fuse block (battery) the regulator senses this and ups it’s output back to 14 v . If you move the battery to the boot and add 3 meters of heavy duty cable and add any connections (each can drop volts) , the sense cable cannot sense this ….so you should also extend the sense wire with the new heavy duty cable to the rear as close as possible to the battery . Now any extra voltage drop due to the long heavy duty cable is again sensed and compensated for . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted November 10 Author Share Posted November 10 Still fitting interior /wiring , moving to the front suspension/brakes ,and engine bay clean up , swapped headlining over (pic show mirror fit ) ,fitted some bonnet dampers and removed the strut . I need to relocate the oil cooler due to new front , fitted the mesh . Awaiting arrival of new arch liners and bits and bobs - new front /rear window seal ordered and window guy lined up to fit and seal windows - maybe Wednesday . So far no defects with the front suspension/steering at all , all bushes arms ,bearings etc good - so shocks and whifbitz ARB to fit on Monday .- zero rust !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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