GE to GTE Conversion - Discuss

[evinX]

So ill be wanting to convert my non turbo over to a turbo in a few years. Knowing me id want to have all the parts sorted before i start, down to the nuts and bolts.

Buying a complete engine and doing work to it is out of the question.

In my mind im thinking of starting of with a GTE head and complete intake with throttle body.

Speaking with @Homer a small turbo would suit my driving style as im not out to acheive big power. But a turbo supra would be nice.

Feel fee to list anything and everything. This post may be around for a while

[Mike2JZ]

If you are going go to with a small single rather than a stock TT setup, then my advise would be to use GE VVTi head. Much nicer and better flowing and easier on the pocket, and you will need the same mods like injectors ecu etc if you are going small single.

[evinX]

11 minutes ago, Mike2JZ said:

If you are going go to with a small single rather than a stock TT setup, then my advise would be to use GE VVTi head. Much nicer and better flowing and easier on the pocket, and you will need the same mods like injectors ecu etc if you are going small single.

What kind of intake will i use? Want a front foward facing one and ditch the overhead na intake. As it has to look good to

[erachter]

50 minutes ago, Mike2JZ said:

If you are going go to with a small single rather than a stock TT setup, then my advise would be to use GE VVTi head. Much nicer and better flowing and easier on the pocket, and you will need the same mods like injectors ecu etc if you are going small single.

I strongly agree with this. Make sure to use a OEM GTE Head Gasket and you will have very good comp ratio(slightly higher than stock GTE 8.5:1, from what I remember it ends up being 9.2:1 which is perfect for a turbo build)

[erachter]

41 minutes ago, evinX said:

What kind of intake will i use? Want a front foward facing one and ditch the overhead na intake. As it has to look good to

When I was planning for a build this was a good solution, https://fmic.eu/en/engine/166430-intake-manifold-fmic-pro-toyota-2jz-ge.html

But I never ended up buying it so can't give any reviews

I would use a proper throttle body tho, not the one from the kit..

Edited August 10, 2022 by erachter (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

Yes those manifolds are the best ebay quality manifolds you can get. We have run them at 1000hp with no issues with the plenum yet, sometimes the throttles need a bit of tweaking but overall works well for the money. 

Alternatively there are a few companies making adapters for GE to GTE runners so you can run GTE intake manifold, these also work well.

[AC93]

As above, I did a GE VVTi head swap (actually I used the whole GS300 GE block) and then an SSI front facing intake, same style as the link above.

Made plenty of power when SRD mapped it 

[Noz]

I'd be tempted to just convert your GE. You can run 400hp without changing anything. Gasket or head.

Injectors and a fuel pump with a fuel setup, map a fitted standalone and you're pretty much there.

You don't need anything from a GTE unless you want 500+, where using a head gasket is needed.

FFIM will help but its not essential. The one linked looks good. I'd be tempted to go all out and fit a drive by wire throttle. Or if you're on a budget use the original and extend the cable. Kit throttles can be hit and miss. I've had few issues over the years trying to use non oem ones.

GE vvti head does seem the way forward from many setups these days. I've bought two. Just in case

[Tommyg_5]

To bring this back from the dead, what na-t kits are people using? 

There is obviously the whifbitz one. What other manifolds etc are people using ? Hear good and bad about some ebay stuff like cxracing. Never know what is true and what is bs.

Obviously don't want to blow up my GE but at the end it's not a GTE so would be good to keep some kind of lid on the budget. 

If a GTE was less then 5k then I'd drop that in, but I think that time had passed!

Thoughts supra geniuses ?

[AC93]

Depends on your budget, cheap side is CX Racing ..top end you got Whifbitz and SRD. As with anything you get what you pay for, but you need to decide what your BHP goal is and build around that

[Tommyg_5]

3 hours ago, AC93 said:

Depends on your budget, cheap side is CX Racing ..top end you got Whifbitz and SRD. As with anything you get what you pay for, but you need to decide what your BHP goal is and build around that

I'll probably end up going with whifbitz. Just wondered if anyone on here had any experience with the CX quality etc?

[Noz]

Cheaper manifolds may need some work to fit and seal nicely. May also crack.

It's an expensive cost for a nice manifold when the downsides aren't huge. But nothing going wrong is great.

If I had budget. I'd go whifbitz kit also. Decent manifolds for sure last longer. That's a promise. But is it essential. Probably not.

You can't go budger waste gate and not take a risk.

Turbo is the same but less of a risk as its rarer.

Its all about probability with those items. Cheap metal work isn't a big deal but everything else, you're taking a bit of a gamble in performance and reliability.

If you're into the work yourself and don't mind making stuff fit right. You can probably save some tokens buying cheaper parts here and there. Maybe even second hand top end parts. But if you're not massively into part sourcing. Just buy a kit, and play it safe man.

Invest in your car bro. It's more money to fix it than pay for extra expensive stuff. It'll also make it more sellable. No one will want top dollar for budget NAt stuff.

Edited September 18, 2022 by Noz (see edit history)

[Tommyg_5]

14 hours ago, Noz said:

Cheaper manifolds may need some work to fit and seal nicely. May also crack.

It's an expensive cost for a nice manifold when the downsides aren't huge. But nothing going wrong is great.

If I had budget. I'd go whifbitz kit also. Decent manifolds for sure last longer. That's a promise. But is it essential. Probably not.

You can't go budger waste gate and not take a risk.

Turbo is the same but less of a risk as its rarer.

Its all about probability with those items. Cheap metal work isn't a big deal but everything else, you're taking a bit of a gamble in performance and reliability.

If you're into the work yourself and don't mind making stuff fit right. You can probably save some tokens buying cheaper parts here and there. Maybe even second hand top end parts. But if you're not massively into part sourcing. Just buy a kit, and play it safe man.

Invest in your car bro. It's more money to fix it than pay for extra expensive stuff. It'll also make it more sellable. No one will want top dollar for budget NAt stuff.

I am going to be doing the work. But you are right, better to buy reliable stuff and do it once!

[Noz]

4 minutes ago, Tommyg_5 said:

I am going to be doing the work. But you are right, better to buy reliable stuff and do it once!

If you can afford it mate. Go all out.

Often those cheaper components are enablers to make it possible for some of us who couldn't afford the big bucks parts in a realistic time frame.

If you can afford it, or can afford to wait. Do it bro