Big Supes Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Howdy, Just wondering if anyone can help add to the shopping list for my single build. I currently have the manifold and turbo. I'm going to be running a BorgWarner S300SX3 - 6673 "S366", .91 A/R, Twin Scroll. Original plans were to run stock UK-Spec ECU and fuelling for sub-500bhp limited boost, but I'm already eyeing up the Link G4X Plug 'n play ECU so maybe a little fuel system could be in order. I'm not sure where the UK camshafts run out of puff, but for the time being, I'd be happy with 600+bhp. So far the list looks as follows... 4" downpipe and recirc pipes Twin wastegates Oil feed and return line (PHR) Potential FMIC4" downpipe and recirc pipes Twin wastegates Oil feed and return line (PHR) Potential FMIC Link G4X ECU Injectors (size suited to cams) Fuel pump Fuel pressure regulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Fairly typical spec for what you are asking for, with room for growth without having to change every part on the car looks like: - FIC1000 or ID1050X Injectors. Don't bother with anything less than 1000cc. These two injectors are tried and tested at SRD, idles mint & enough fuel for ~800bhp on pump fuel. - Link 4 Bar Map Sensor - Link IAT Sensor (plumbed in pre TB) - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump (One of these is enough for ~800hp on pump fuel) - Aeromotive Compact Regulator are really nice, super reliable and easy to hide. - Radium Fuel Rail with Pulsation Dampener (assuming you are using stock inlet still) - AN6 Braided fuel lines from fuel filter to rail -> FPR -> factory return hardline - Link CAN Lambda or AEM 30-0310 X-Series Inline Wideband UEGO AFR Controller - Fuel & Oil Pressure/Temperature Sensor (Bosch PST-F 1 is a great sensor of good value which can do both pressure & temperature from the same port!) - Link XS Loom (So you can connect your new sensor to this without cutting up factory loom) - Forget the SMIC if you want 600hp, every single one ive tried is shit for a big single that actually gets driven, one big pull at the IAT's are molten. Do not spend big money on a uprated SMIC if you are going big power. For a quality item use ETS 4'' FMIC which will be the best performance you can buy for the 500-850hp segment, if you are on a budget throw in a 4'' Whifbitz FMIC. - Uprated clutch, V160 Spec Stage 3+ is a fairly OEM feel clutch that can support 800hp. S366SXE turbo will do around 525-550 whp on stock cams with around 1.6 bar boost. UK Camshafts are ok, but not really that different from any other factory 2JZ camshaft in the sense that after 6k rpm the head will not breathe any more, so peak power will be around 6 then slowly die off, regardless of what turbo you stick on. So if you want the car to rip your tits off till 7k, then cam/inlet change will be required. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 Wow, thanks Mike. That's a wealth of information there. A friend of mine who's car is going to SRD for a 1000bhp build at the end of next year and has agreed to flog me his 272 cams, FMIC and injectors so I may hang on for those as they've hardly seen any miles. In the meantime I think I'll start sourcing the rest of the parts. Thanks again for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tayr Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 This should be stickied 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 No problem. One correction to above, if you use the radium fuel rail, they can provide an FPR that fits into the end of the rail, so you wouldn't need an external one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 11, 2021 Author Share Posted December 11, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Mike2JZ said: No problem. One correction to above, if you use the radium fuel rail, they can provide an FPR that fits into the end of the rail, so you wouldn't need an external one. I recall chatting to Lee and him mentioning the stock UK’s are side feed with resistor pack and much easier to change as you only need the front half of the fuel system. So rail, injectors, FPR and a some lines from the filter.. I'll have a peek at the radium rail with FPR. Edited December 11, 2021 by Big Supes (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted December 11, 2021 Share Posted December 11, 2021 Nice info Mike Just to add a 4" downpipes is overkill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 12, 2021 Author Share Posted December 12, 2021 4 hours ago, Swampy442 said: Nice info Mike Just to add a 4" downpipes is overkill Mere future proofing and I also prefer the sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 On 12/12/2021 at 4:03 AM, Big Supes said: Mere future proofing and I also prefer the sound. Have you driven a supra with a full 4" single box system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 15 minutes ago, TheTurtleshead said: Have you driven a supra with a full 4" single box system? ITS REALLLY GOOD!!! WHAT DID YOU SAY? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 34 minutes ago, TheTurtleshead said: Have you driven a supra with a full 4" single box system? Yes. The throttle response took a bit of getting used to, but with my clutch set up it will be fine. Why do you ask? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 On 12/11/2021 at 10:30 PM, Big Supes said: I recall chatting to Lee and him mentioning the stock UK’s are side feed with resistor pack and much easier to change as you only need the front half of the fuel system. So rail, injectors, FPR and a some lines from the filter.. I'll have a peek at the radium rail with FPR. I just fitted a Radium rail with 1050X injectors, really class stuff. With the FPR on the rail, simplifies the hoses & no need to worry about mounting points. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Samurai 20V said: I just fitted a Radium rail with 1050X injectors, really class stuff. With the FPR on the rail, simplifies the hoses & no need to worry about mounting points. Awesome. Thanks for the nod of approval. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AC93 Posted December 14, 2021 Share Posted December 14, 2021 I would use Mike's shopping list, that's near enough my setup and they mapped it last December on a Link G4, Borg S364 but forged engine with VVTi and 264 cams, made 616whp at 1.6bar and nothings blown up yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted December 14, 2021 Author Share Posted December 14, 2021 1 hour ago, AC93 said: I would use Mike's shopping list, that's near enough my setup and they mapped it last December on a Link G4, Borg S364 but forged engine with VVTi and 264 cams, made 616whp at 1.6bar and nothings blown up yet That's the plan. Well, eventually. I'm toying with the idea of running the Link ECU on my single set up, but with stock fuelling for next spring/summer and then at the end of the year, add 272 cams, fuel system, upgraded ignition system and remap. The simple reason is, my buddy will be selling me his low miles cams and injectors and I don't mind breaking this up into two stages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 @Mike2JZ Above you mentioned the ETS & Whiftbitz 4" FMIC. The price difference between the two is huge, is the ETS worth the extra cash? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 (edited) Here you can see the performance difference. This is over 1 fifth gear pull on the dyno. Similar ambient conditions, same IAT sensors used, same boost targets, same turbo's. Both runs are around 5-6seconds long. 5'' Whifbitz ~ 16C Degree Rise over 1 Pull 5'' ETS ~ 1-2C rise/fall throughout run. EDIT: (Also you can actually see where the turbo is working efficiently and where it starts to blow hot hair as it leaves its efficiency, which is cool) From my own testing on my car with the same turbo, I've logged that with around 1.8 bar of boost, the turbo compressor outlet temperature is usually around 110-120C from the moment the turbo comes onto full boost. Keep that in mind when looking at the above IAT data. If I had to summarize each product: WhifBitz Pros Cheap Fits Well Does not suffer from pressure drop between inlet/outlet Is big enough to flow 1000bhp+ without bottleneck Heatsoak recovery rate is moderate. Cons Density of fins not dense enough to provide a huge cooling benefit over a large period of time Easy to heatsoak ETS Pros The best air-to-air intercooler performance I've ever seen used on a Supra in terms of cooling the air charge, especially for the big power guys. Fits like a dream Customizable when ordered for different inlet/outlet sizes etc. Signficantly longer time before heatsoak is an issue Does not seem to suffer from large pressure drops, but I dont have data on this so cant confirm. I suspect it isn't a problem though given the cars I've tuned with them so far. Heatsoak recovery rate is fast Cons Expensive as it has to come from USA The above translates to their 4'' models from what I've seen as well. The denser/colder you can keep your air charge, the more power you can make and the less detonation you are likely to experience. For me, this statement is what its all about, but I'm very much a performance orientated person/tuner and always want to maximize efficiency. That said my own car has a whifbitz 5'' cause I was broke after my last build and paying peanuts for a large intercooler saved me and I worked with it, but its on the cards to get replaced with an ETS for the next build. There is definately a place for the both of these products in the market. Many people dont drive their cars hard enough or frequently enough on the road for heatsoak or adverse affects of high IAT's to be an issue, so why pay a premium for an intercooler that wont be used. Others who are more performance orientated should only really be considering the ETS, but it comes at a price like all good hardware. Is the ETS worth the extra cash? Most definately. @Burna Burna can relay his experiences going from SMIC to an ETS 4'', but I think me and him both get slightly hard every time we look at his IAT's now compared to what they were like before. Edited January 5, 2022 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 2 hours ago, Mike2JZ said: but I think me and him both get slightly hard every time we look at his IAT's now Should get embedded in your Sig that Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 Mike, as usual, your explanations are top notch. In my case, the ambient here in Durban, South Africa is worse of than the UK. As an example, today was a 33degC high, 22deg Low.. Humidity 89%. My IAT on highway cruise was between 40-50deg, it only drops by 5deg on a WOT pull. FMIC is a Greddy Spec LS. Even on a cold day IAT is similar to above, never returns to anywhere below 30 deg in any usage. The stock sensor location may be playing a role in this though. Reading the above, the big Con for me will be the easy to heatsoak on the Whiftbitz, looks like ETS is the way. Thanks again Mike, the details you provide are very valuable, much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 Yes I forgot to mention both of the above datasets are using IAT sensor plumbed before the throttle body using fast reacting IAT sensors. This area will generally be cooler as it wont have the same heatsoak as stock inlet manifold and provides a much better indication of intercooler outlet temps, even though intake air temps will be affected slightly by the inlet manifolds heat as it passes through into the cylinders. HKS/Greddy FMIC's tend to be of good quality from everything I've seen so far, normally they provide a decent cool to the charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 22 hours ago, Mike2JZ said: Is the ETS worth the extra cash? Most definately. @Burna Burna can relay his experiences going from SMIC to an ETS 4'', but I think me and him both get slightly hard every time we look at his IAT's now compared to what they were like before. Haha after fitting the 4" ETS and watching my IAT's actually drop when it comes on boost! That's going to give anyone a semi lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted January 6, 2022 Share Posted January 6, 2022 19 hours ago, Mike2JZ said: Yes I forgot to mention both of the above datasets are using IAT sensor plumbed before the throttle body using fast reacting IAT sensors. This area will generally be cooler as it wont have the same heatsoak as stock inlet manifold and provides a much better indication of intercooler outlet temps, even though intake air temps will be affected slightly by the inlet manifolds heat as it passes through into the cylinders. HKS/Greddy FMIC's tend to be of good quality from everything I've seen so far, normally they provide a decent cool to the charge. I have a fast acting IAT sensor, will get it installed before deciding to change.. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.