Nathanj1142 Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 Hey guys. recently done an na-t build with coil on plug and Rev gauge isn’t working. I’ve bridged the resistor as shown in other guides but still isn’t working. link ecu reading RPMs fine - suspect it’s either the connection to the tach or a fault with my tach. I can’t find a wiring diagram to check there is continuity between ecu and tach any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 What did you do with the igniter wiring? Pretty sure the tach signal runs through that so might need to pick it up there and run it back to ECU/gauge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 6 minutes ago, Style said: What did you do with the igniter wiring? Pretty sure the tach signal runs through that so might need to pick it up there and run it back to ECU/gauge Ah this might be it never plugged it back in so cables just dangling there. Cheers I’ll let you know how goes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 I had to go through this issue when converting my GE to COP as well. The signal is coming from the igniter on a stock GE. I had to create a new tach output signal from my AEM ECU und also solder in an MSD tach converter (alternative to solder the resistor on the tach itself. I have an oem TRD tach so I didn‘t want to mess with it). If the OEM GE igniter is deleted when using smart coils you will not get a tach signal anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 7 minutes ago, Herb said: I had to go through this issue when converting my GE to COP as well. The signal is coming from the igniter on a stock GE. I had to create a new tach output signal from my AEM ECU und also solder in an MSD tach converter (alternative to solder the resistor on the tach itself. I have an oem TRD tach so I didn‘t want to mess with it). If the OEM GE igniter is deleted when using smart coils you will not get a tach signal anymore. Cheers mate. just found a post on here from few years ago that outlines what I need to do! Appreciate the replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herb Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 You‘re welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 You are on link P&P so the tacho output is already setup to work out the box, you only need to do tach resist mod on the tachometer to get it working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 4 minutes ago, Mike2JZ said: You are on link P&P so the tacho output is already setup to work out the box, you only need to do tach resist mod on the tachometer to get it working. Way to throw a spanner in works Mike! I’ll have to measure continuity between the connector. Is it aux 4 on ecu and orange one on the centre clock plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) AUX1 is tacho on Supralink basemap. You can continuity test between Aux 1 and pin 29 on the 36pin orange footwell connector. From there, you can continuity test between orange connector and the plug on back of the tachometer. Make sure you are bypassing the correct resistor, I've accidentially bypassed the wrong one before and tach didnt work. Also make sure your soldering is penetrating properly, have seen issues with bad soldering before. Edited August 2, 2021 by Mike2JZ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanj1142 Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 2 minutes ago, Mike2JZ said: AUX1 is tacho on Supralink basemap. You can continuity test between Aux 1 and pin 29 on the 36pin orange footwell connector. From there, you can continuity test between orange connector and the plug on back of the tachometer. Make sure you are bypassing the correct resistor, I've accidentially bypassed the wrong one before and tach didnt work. Also make sure your soldering is penetrating properly, have seen issues with bad soldering before. Will do Mike cheers. Will keep u posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.JPG.fd5f013ad13370ad5e11739d52050139.JPG)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.