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TT Aero Progress Thread


tayr

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On 6/7/2021 at 6:23 PM, baldy said:

On the mirrors for non power fold you cant get them apart easily, but it can be done. Getting it back together is the drama though, so i’s leave as is.

handles are pretty easy, theres a rivet, grind off the smaller end till flush with the handle part it goes through, then punch the rivet out taking not of the spring location for reasembly. Once back together use a center punch between the rivet end and handle to create a bur. done

 

ive done loads and never hand one come apart

hope this helps

May sound like a daft question but how do you get this out? I don’t want to break anything and the body is too big to push back through the hole.

 

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5 minutes ago, baldy said:

Between the spring where its hooked the the handle base and the White plastic in the pic. See rivet head that is what you grind down till flush then tap out

Great to see you back and posting again Si. Your input, truly is invaluable.

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8 minutes ago, baldy said:

Between the spring where its hooked the the handle base and the White plastic in the pic. See rivet head that is what you grind down till flush then tap out

Sorry mate, think i confused you. i meant the white plastic bit itself, or do i cut the head off that one too?

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On 6/10/2021 at 6:04 PM, baldy said:

Typical the pair of handles i have spare dont have that, but i think you can pic the head off so to speak and push it out. Where are you, if your not a million miles from me i’ll pop over

I’m in Hampshire mate but I wouldn’t make you do that! Really appreciate you offering though!

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On 6/10/2021 at 10:18 PM, Ric said:

I cut out the pin holding them together and machined a new pin out of an bolt. with a small nut on the end.

I was thinking of using an interscrew.. need to get the rivit out then I’ll see what size to buy 

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So eventually got both handles apart. My other handle didn’t have the white plastic bit but the way I cut it I can glue it back on.

the dremel kit I had wouldn’t take the top of the rivit off so In the end I sanded it down then punched it out.

Also having a go at tackling the headlights. Definitely not worth the hassle of doing it myself but thought I’d try. 
 

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just awaiting a couple quotes back from Some body shops but once the headlights are done I’m going to take the rear quarter glass out (hopefully Saturday) and remove some other little bits

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Little progress, thanks to the guidance of some forum members I was able to get the rear quarter glass out. it only took around 3 hours combined and 2 sliced fingers. One of which I thought I’d taken clean off.. 

Next on the list is the miscellaneous clips etc that are still in the car, and try and finally sort this OD and slip control issues.  Then make plans for the engine and gearbox removal

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2 hours ago, tayr said:

Thank you mate, really Enjoying the learning process too!

Agreed, I would love the opportunity to do more work myself, but never seem to have enough time. Do think you get an extra sense of pride and achievement if some or all of the work is your own. 🙂

Keep up the good work mate. 

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8 minutes ago, Peter P said:

Agreed, I would love the opportunity to do more work myself, but never seem to have enough time. Do think you get an extra sense of pride and achievement if some or all of the work is your own. 🙂

Keep up the good work mate. 

Tbh I am quite proud, I’ve stepped outside of my comfort zone. A lot of it is a lot easier than I thought but some Is also more challenging.

So I forgot to post that I’d undone all the screws for the outer weather strip at the tip of the door, but it still feels very stiff. I can see it has white clips underneath that I can’t get to too easy so do I just pull harder ?? Going to check the manual too see if it says anything there. 
 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a lot happened since other than sorted the slip control and OD issue by replacing the throttle control ECU.

i also thought I’d take a grinder to the small hole I found in the rear air inlet just to see what I’m working with.

Next I’m going to give the engine bay a good going over before deciding wether to keep it in, or remove it. 
 

also managed to find the code for the alarm so got another key fob programmed 2EC05659-4D27-4789-817D-D7F59919005E.thumb.jpeg.636ad83ce338862229a996c44cf85169.jpeg8B0AF94E-9A20-41D7-A4AD-B6A65710DD44.thumb.jpeg.c1178dec04e9eefaec8f9a984689455b.jpeg0FD1DAC5-3DEB-4BE9-A43E-0227B1FB2DA7.thumb.jpeg.055f37001374d68d888209ff77f6830d.jpeg

 

 

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3 hours ago, Noz said:

Replace the sill. Easier than a dodgy repair.

 

1 hour ago, jim_supra said:

This. You will need to buy a cut piece from a breaker though (Keron), as that section is not available new without buying a full rear quarter unfortunately.

This is an easy repair for any competent bodyshop, simple cut out and weld a patch in. You don’t need to replace the whole sill just for this patch. Rest is solid 

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Hi mate,

It’s really up to you on whether you mesh the front bumper, I haven’t on mine as it would have been a real pain what with the flip number plate, but Matt has meshed my side skirts and also the hole in the TwinZ rear diffuser. We used eBay mesh and it works just fine. The main thing is getting it bonded properly so it holds and doesn’t come out.

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Before the car goes into the body shop I thought I might try and sort some of the surface rust under the car.

can anyone recommend any products and the process?

I was going to use a clear waxoyl that converts the rust too but will that be enough? 

is it worth then degreasing it, then spraying it with some sort of protection?

 

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Brass wire wheel attachments for drills take the rust away very easily leaving you with 90% clean metal id say. Any tiny pits left over use a rust converter lile bilthamber. Thats usually where people stop. It does convert the rust but left to the elements rust will appear again. So coat it with a 2k epoxy. And then you can use waxoyl over it. Waxoyl over bare metal is pretty much a waste of time. It helps repel the elements but its not 100% protective

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So that’s the glass out. I noticed I have this strange line where either the dash has warped or the vent has sunk. I can’t work it out. Can I just pull the vent out from the top or is it glued in? Anyone else had this? Maybe some black pen or something may be needed I don’t know.

tomorrow I’ll be removing the misc clips etc and clean up some of the underside where the sills will cover then we should be good for paint

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